Well, the secret is out...

[MidnightriderZ24]

that thing will tear an lt1 a new one haha. looks good man

[ForcedFirebird]

As always, thanks for the input Joseph. Even without the recirculation it's can sometimes be trying to get all the pipes to line up enough to bolt up.

Nifty idea on the MIG tip. Even if I don't use it now, that's going in the memory bank. On other headers I have built, I found using a flux core welder is actually good for a situation like that. As long as you don't let the wire touch on it's way in, the close quarters keeps the burned flux in the area well enough to maintain a good spark/heat.

What did you use to insulate the aluminum from the wire? If the wire happen to touch the inside of the aluminum, and the aluminum hit the part your welding, you would think that the wire might burn off inside the tube (actually that might be better than the wire being burnt to the pipe in an unwanted area).

[Joseph Upson]

As always, thanks for the input Joseph. Even without the recirculation it's can sometimes be trying to get all the pipes to line up enough to bolt up.

Nifty idea on the MIG tip. Even if I don't use it now, that's going in the memory bank. On other headers I have built, I found using a flux core welder is actually good for a situation like that. As long as you don't let the wire touch on it's way in, the close quarters keeps the burned flux in the area well enough to maintain a good spark/heat.

What did you use to insulate the aluminum from the wire? If the wire happen to touch the inside of the aluminum, and the aluminum hit the part your welding, you would think that the wire might burn off inside the tube (actually that might be better than the wire being burnt to the pipe in an unwanted area).

I should have taken a picture of it as I intended to since I was so proud. The tube was trimmed to just beyond the end of the wire feed tip so there was no chance the wire could touch it, however I did have to tape the end perimeter to avoid current transfer on touching the tubing, shielding gas flowed through without a problem but I taped the threaded end to prevent air from being scavenged in anyway.

It was so effective I plan to look into a copper version of it and some high temp insulation as the tape will catch fire after a few seconds of continuous welding from the heat.

I never studied up on soldering or welding, I just bought the equipment, read the instructions and learned at the same time I was building. I didn't know soldering was an option but coincidently I purchased the HO small block chevy 350 of soldering guns from harbor freight that cranks out 180 watts to replace the 30 w pinto soldering iron I was struggling with for my wiring harness and man there is no comparison.

I recall the instructions stating the tip gets somewhere over 1000 degrees in which case it makes sense to use on the exhaust to patch up pin holes in tight spots depending on the melting point of the solder.

I just don't like the Ssshhhh sound from the open wastegate dump contaminating the harmonic sound of the turbos which to anyone paying attention to detail can be distinguished as a twin turbo setup because the turbos can't maintain the exact same frequency or octave and the sound comes out the way duet vocals would.

I have a MIG welder (which spoiled me) and a plasma cutter, I guess a TIG welder is next.

[Guest]

I'd look at placing the WG under the brake master, looking at your pictures there looks to be enough space to place it there.

With how you have suggested, if I understand correctly, the WG will be above the rear primaries, and below the down pipe. This would be nice and compact, but an absolute PITA to assemble, and I'd also worry about all the heat in that area possibly compromising the diaphram in the WG.

Placing the WG under the brake master, would allow the diaphram end to be away from the heat, and allow the dump tube to flow back into the down pipe under the header.

Also instead of welding the dump pipe to the down pipe, you can use a slightly larger tube for a short length at the down pipe for a slip fit. This allows easier re&re, and also allows for heat expansion and contraction. I did this on a friends turbo Del Sol, and worked great.

[ForcedFirebird]

Thanks for the input. I'll proabably have to wait to get the downpipes started and everything mocked in the car to see.

Got a little more done today, creeping along...

[loner666]

When you coming up to work on mine some more?

[SappySE107]

I still think that 1 primary looks goofy, even if a downpipe is going in between it and the block.

[ForcedFirebird]

I still think that 1 primary looks goofy, even if a downpipe is going in between it and the block.

Haha, you look goofy, but I don't complain J/K

Anyways, it will perform just fine, and will be buried under a spiderweb of pipes by the time it's all said and done. Unless I put the primaries up over the valve covers, right against the hood, I didn't have much choice on that side. It may get moved some, the primaries aren't welded to the collector yet and I still have to fit that side in the car before sealing it up.

[Canyonero]

Progress?

[johnnymossville]

Man Forced, I am green. The Corsica is history so my hybrid is going in the wife's car and I just bought a '96 Monte Carlo that will either get a 3500 or a 3400 so I'll probably need some TURBO headers. LOL

[ForcedFirebird]

Progress?

Nope

The steel I have for cutting out the t3 and downpipe flanges are sitting on the stock shelf getting some surface rust.

Here's how the eingine looks now (using to mock some custom 3500 RWD turbo accy mounts)...

The other turbo and headers ar being removed for the rest of the header/accy mock up of a particular 3500-turbo-powered Camaro, coming soon



Thinking about just putting the motor in and running N/A for part/all of this race season, and using the 3.1/3400 for mocking the rest of the turbo setup. Time/money is becoming an issue to be at the track by hopefully Apr/May

Man Forced, I am green. The Corsica is history so my hybrid is going in the wife's car and I just bought a '96 Monte Carlo that will either get a 3500 or a 3400 so I'll probably need some TURBO headers. LOL

Hmm, last set of turbo headers I made went on a Corsica, he's in the 12's

Can't wait to see what the mullet-mobile is going to do, "Hey, Bubba, Watch this...."


Seriously, I can make some headers if you want, just like Loner's, PM me, and we'll work it out

[Canyonero]

Eeek! Your headers are rusty!

Well I haven't done anything with your old 3.1 intake yet either. Actually, might have been money wasted because I'll probably be getting a whole 3.1 on Friday. I'll still have problems getting the 3.1 intake to clear my Trooper brackets, so I'm getting the other 3.1 for it's brackets and intake and I'll use the long block in another Trooper. I'll have to relocate my coil packs, but that's not a big deal.

[ForcedFirebird]

Eeek! Your headers are rusty!

So is the turbine housing that has already been installed

Nothing that sandblasting and my new ceramic coating rig won't take care of though

[Canyonero]

I want a sandblasting and ceramic coating rig...

[ForcedFirebird]

I want a sandblasting and ceramic coating rig...

Well, go buy them

Home made cabinet with a syphon feed ~$500, air compressor to handle it ~$1000, HVLP sprayer ~$150, heat-treating oven ~$1000, and the ceramic coatings are about $60 to do one header, then add the special high-temp masking tape and silicone plugs etc etc ----

Man, I'm realizing how expensive my "hobby" is


PM me if you want something coated