95 beretta w 3400 turbo?

[sr20hardbody]

well i've been doing some more research and found that the 2000+ 3400 stock injectors will flood the engine with the 95 beretta 3100 ecu correct?


well what if i was to add a rear mounted turbo to compensate and add more air? i have a t25 that i can use and piping and intercooler shouldnt be too tough. dont plan on high boost just enough to make the newer mulitec 2 injectors work with this 95 3100 ecu that way the engine puts out the power its supposed to maybe a little more. since im starting to think this 3400 swap isnt going to please me power wise.

[geldartb]

obd-ii swap and yes it ill flood out

[sr20hardbody]

i've read the obd2 swap is a pain to do and i've already red loomed the stock harness so thats a no go on the turbo? even if i only run around 7psi (stock t25 internal gate) cuz the more i look at it the easier it looks to do. this is on an auto tranny and most guys run a turbo without tune on their stock set up without problems as long as its low boost. so by running these multitec 2's with a turbo on this older ecu shouldnt it be just right? i know ignition is another story which wouldnt an msd cure that?

thanks for any help i just want the swap to be worth it and maybe put some use to these parts i have. another thing is the car will sit on 225 40 18's with heavy rims which is another loss so i need all i can get power wise.

[IsaacHayes]

It's way more complicated than "throw in bigger injectors, and throw on turbo for extra air". You gotta tune that stuff. The computer adjusts the amount the injectors squirt for idle and cruise and WOT. If you put larger ones in, it won't know that. Sure it might be the right amount when it goes WOT if you have big enough engine mods and are lucky, but any time you are not pedal to the floor its going to wash your cylinders with gas and run bad.

Unless you OBDII swap so you can adjust for different injectors, leave your stock ones in. If you want more power and to boost and not tune for it, you MUST get a FMU to raise the fuel pressure as boost comes on. And a MSD boost spark timing retarding box like you said would help. You won't make near as much power as if you could tune though. You will need a larger fuel pump too as the stock one maxxes out at about 4-5psi and the car will go lean. You will need a wideband O2 sensor mounted in the downpipe and a gauge to monitor as you adjust the FMU.

Sounds like you need a lot of reading and researching to do before you take on boosting this car, or it will end with broken stuff or not running well.

[sr20hardbody]

lol i know all this stuff but this is what i needed to hear!!! so fmu a dont they have fixed fmu's that are already preadjusted to a certain ratio like a honda fmu? the thing im not to sure about is this obd 1.5 how nothing can really be done about tuning unless you basicaly make a new ecu or swap to obd2.


so if i get a walbro in tank and run the stock beretta injectors with 3400 fpr im guessing with an fmu and wideband o2 with an air/fuel gauge and im sure a little more i can have a turbo 95 3400 without resorting to a wiring swap? cuz i have most of the stuff if not i can get it.

[IsaacHayes]

OBD"1.5" As we call it is still OBDI, but they changed the ECM so that it no longer uses a removable EPROM chip. So all the tuning stuff for those older ECM's don't work for that. It is flash based like OBD2 is, but it's still OBDI so you can't use the OBD2 re-flashers.

Since it's only 2 years, no one cares about cracking the code. There are LT1 V8 cars with the same setup, but companies/people have cracked those because those are popular. I have talked to those people asking if they could do it with our 3100's, and they are either A) too busy working on the new 2008+ cars to bother. Or B) Would but don't have the information from GM needed to map out the code and what does what inside it.

It's just unsupported.

You will run your stock FPR not the 3400 one. Later 3400 ones are higher pressure and will throw off your fueling just like larger injectors would.

Yeah basically that's right. If you don't have a way to retard timing when boost comes on you gotta make sure you run it rich enough to not detonate and limit the amount of boost you push. So you probably will be running overly rich for the sake of safety. There are no "preset for boost" FMU's out there cause every engine flows differently you have to adjust them to the right amount of increase in fuel pressure per PSI of boost.

Loner666 ran a FMU and remote turbo for a while on his corsica but wasn't that fast at all. (I think only like a 15.7? I ran a 16.0 stock!) Now he has a built up motor that ran faster N/A (I think 14.. He has a turbo on again now (under the hood) but is blowing up transmissions like crazy LOL.

So what you are wanting to do can be done. Is it optimal, or will it make as much power as a under-hood properly tuned turbo? No, but it will get you boosted, and can be safe if you adjust it right.

If I were you I'd start reading about turbo's/etc just so you know what you're getting into before you start buying and bolt stuff up. Then when you decide to it will go smoother and you can adjust it safely.

[geldartb]

the obd-ii swap inst that compicated. all you have to do in addition to running the main harness is add a few wires to the right spots.

i did mine in an afternoon which consisted of till it got dark which was like 3 or so hours.

if you want an engine harness and most of the stuff needed i have it left over from my car so its yours if you want it. i got most fot he obd-ii stuff needed to do a swap on a beretta.

[loner666]

I skipped most of this because Ive already done a similiar build.

Rearmounted T25 will be to small. I used a turbo bigger then that and it still killed the car down low. Id hate to feel it with a T25

I ran 21# injectors with a Rising Rate Fuel pressure regulator on the OBD 1.5 crap. Did it work? Yes. Was it right? I doubt it. It can be done but converting to OBD2 is better. Can be a pain but its worth it.

If you really want to Rear mount it find a bigger turbo. That T25 is to small to be mounted up front on the 3400 let alone in the rear. Trust me I ran a rear mount for 6months on my Corsica. Hell I even have most of all the stuff needed to do it still

[Z26-T]

If you want to do a 3400 swap, just look at the 3400 swap threads. Doing a swap then turboing it...a whole new story. Honestly if i were to buy stuff again, id go N/A and obd2 because the n/a guys are running about as fast as the turbo guys, if not faster. Turbos just cause more heart/head ache then they're worth. Had my kit for over a year and its still not in... but im a busy guy and buy other toys in the middle of projects... :P. Decide now if you want n/a or boost, dont just plan to throw a 3400 in and then think "heck, lets throw a turbo on while were at it".

Can't he just run 3400 with stock 3100 injectors, or will the ecm not compensate and make it go too lean?

[IsaacHayes]

Well, the N/A are fast, but not as fast as the turbo 3400 getrag282 manual guys.

He should run his stock 3100 injectors and FPR. That is what the computer is designed to use. It will adjust the fuel trims and shouldn't blow up N/A but it won't be optimal without a fuel table and spark table tune or table from a 3400 car.

[Z26-T]

Yeah, but it gets the engine in the car and running. That would be my #1 priority .

[sr20hardbody]

thanks guys i guess i'll stick with the stock stuff and see what it'll do for now. i got the engine and tranny in with solid motor mounts and most of the stuff hooked up just need to run out to the junk yard to get a couple more things mostly bolts and interior pieces.

the car has about 120,000 miles so should i replace the fuel pump or do the GM's last forever? and i'll get some pics up but i think i kinda over did it with the red a little.

[IsaacHayes]

If you are not boosting yet and the stock pump is still working leave it alone. I have over 210,000 or something on mine.

[Z26-T]

150k stock since we got it at 80k. Pulling it to swap it for a higher flow for my turbo...thats it.

[timg]

FMU's alone are nice for cheap, low power setups. Expect 25% more power to be roughly the limit. They work on virtually any type of engine management system as long as you stop the MAP sensor (if there is one) from seeing boost).

When you go beyond 5-7 psi, you need larger injectors and some way to tune fuel and ignition (say a piggyback system). Some people use FMU's with larger injectors as a way to keep injector size and tuning hassle down. In that case, you would need a lower ratio FMU. It probably won't be as fast or run as well as with an OBD2 swap and proper tuning. Piggybacks and FMU's can work really well, but it will cost a lot of money and take a lot of tuning on a dyno and with a wideband O2 to get them setup properly for higher boost levels.

Tim