Burning Oil-Turbo?

[d.o.h.c]

OK guyes I just finished my turbo build on my 3.4 dohc. Here is whats happening. When I start it up, I dont really get any oil buring coming out the exhaust. But when I give it gas and then come to a red light it will start to smoke for about 3-5 sec before it stops. Once I start to accelerate it does not smoke. But when I come to a stop it burns oil again. So I talked to shane and he is telling me to put a oil restrictor on the turbo feed line, I just done know what size and the turbo shaft has enough play in it where I can move the compressor wheel and it will hit the housing up and down. I will have to check and make sure I dont have the drain line kinked and the BOV needs to me adjusted, other than that what else could it be. THe motor is brand new 200 miles and it never burned oil till the last 30 miles.

[ForcedFirebird]

What size oil line did you use?

[RedZMonte]

here is what you need for your "OIL RESTRICTOR" on the turbo.

http://www.atpturbo.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=ATP-OIL-022&Category_Code=ATP-OIL1

[d.o.h.c]

Cool, Thanks shane. I am using a -4an line.

[1988GTU]

Does the charge side have oil seeping out from the turbo?

[d.o.h.c]

No not really, but it looks like the pipes are covered with oil. And the insides of the compressor side are all oily inside,but its not dripping oil,just like coated with oil.

[nocutt]

An oil restrictor? why? Is it a ball bearing turbo? if you are having shaft play then the CHRA may be damaged other than that; the oil feed line and return size are critical...

[sharkey]

oil restrictors are a touchy subject. many people say run them, but everyone i know thats run a restrictor on a journal bearing turbo has broken the shaft. i know a guy who went through 4 turbos, in a hurrey to change one forgot the restrictor and never had problems again. now if you have a ball bearing turbo, a restrictor is a good idea.

if your charge pipes are coated in oil, its a good chance you have a bad oil seel. another possibility is the oil return, what size is it??? general rule of thumb is supposed to be 5x the feed line, however ive had good sesults with -4 feed and -10 or -12 return.

[d.o.h.c]

The drain line is a 5/8 hose. I read alot on the forums last night saying that most problems from burning oil is too much oil. I do have shaft play, but I also need to adjust the drain line. Why is it smoking more now then before and why would it come out the valve cover breathers.

[ForcedFirebird]

If your turbo has enough shaft play for the compressor wheel to make contact with the housing, something is wrong. There should only be about .010" side play and no end play.

[d.o.h.c]

Well i checked it and it comes close but does not hit. I will see if I cant measure it. And there is supposed to be no in and out play?

[ForcedFirebird]

And there is supposed to be no in and out play?

I have the same XSPower turbo you have (Garrett copy), and there is NO end play, even after I took it off the car.

[d.o.h.c]

Wooo, no XSPOWER turbo here. Mine is a garrett,full and true.

[sharkey]

if you have full rebuild and its only got 200 miles on it, why are you driving it in boost??? you should be taking it easy for 1000 miles, with very light if any boost.

the only reason itll blow oil out the breather on the valve cover is because of blowby. your rings havent seated. you may be able to correct this with a bunch of light driving to break the motor in correctly, however if you have blowby the rings and cylender walls are likley glazed up and the only real way to fix that is pull the motor apart, hone it and replace the rings, followed by a proper break in.

[ForcedFirebird]

Wooo, no XSPOWER turbo here. Mine is a garrett,full and true.

I apologise, and I confused your issues with another member here, I'm a dumbass :P.

No you should have no endplay. I just sold a pair of Garrett m24's with over 50k on them, and they had little end play (lots of side play). Was it rebuilt or new?