Why are you going through the water box and doing burn outs? This is entirely not necessary for any car on street tires.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
won't stop raining!
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by kflo 93 gt View PostWhy are you going through the water box and doing burn outs? This is entirely not necessary for any car on street tires.
Street tires will retain moisture in the treads, not to mention most tracks won't let you near the water with drag radials, let alone street tires.
Comment
-
When I ran at the track waaaay back when when I pulled a 16.0 stock I avoided the box. Then one guy sprayed my wheels... Thanks... When I took off that run I wheel hopped and it felt like someone was hitting the front of my car with a sledgehammer over and over when the tires would slip, BANG and grab over and over... Yeah not good on stuff.
Other runs I ran dry and did not have a single issue with traction. The track was VERY old and VERY sticky. Too bad it got bought out for apartments for 6mil and bulldozed.
I ran believe it or not 40PSI going down the track on 205/55 R16 miss-matched tires. I had 3 different brands and 4 different kinds of tires on... LOL
What's funny is I get better traction on the street with higher PSI than I do with low. One way I can tell my tires are getting low is if I start spinning leaving stop signs and stuff in town. Air up the tires, the problem goes away... Weird huh??? Maybe the higher pressure pushes the center of the tire down more vs just the edge of the wheels putting pressure... Same even holds true with 225 wide tires, but not so bad compared to 205 on my 7" wheels. Plus the handling is SOOOO much better and more predictable with higher PSI. The tires don't just break free all of a sudden that way, and less side wall flex. I typically run close to the max of the tire. Some sidewalls are stiffer and take less psi. Regardless I don't run the 30psi the car says to. Also I change it for the brand and size of tire. I found I can run less with the 225's I guess because the rim is not on the edges as bad.
Anyway, has anyone else ran the track with HIGH psi in their tires with success???sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Comment
-
Originally posted by IsaacHayes View PostWhen I ran at the track waaaay back when when I pulled a 16.0 stock I avoided the box. Then one guy sprayed my wheels... Thanks... When I took off that run I wheel hopped and it felt like someone was hitting the front of my car with a sledgehammer over and over when the tires would slip, BANG and grab over and over... Yeah not good on stuff.
Other runs I ran dry and did not have a single issue with traction. The track was VERY old and VERY sticky. Too bad it got bought out for apartments for 6mil and bulldozed.
I ran believe it or not 40PSI going down the track on 205/55 R16 miss-matched tires. I had 3 different brands and 4 different kinds of tires on... LOL
What's funny is I get better traction on the street with higher PSI than I do with low. One way I can tell my tires are getting low is if I start spinning leaving stop signs and stuff in town. Air up the tires, the problem goes away... Weird huh??? Maybe the higher pressure pushes the center of the tire down more vs just the edge of the wheels putting pressure... Same even holds true with 225 wide tires, but not so bad compared to 205 on my 7" wheels. Plus the handling is SOOOO much better and more predictable with higher PSI. The tires don't just break free all of a sudden that way, and less side wall flex. I typically run close to the max of the tire. Some sidewalls are stiffer and take less psi. Regardless I don't run the 30psi the car says to. Also I change it for the brand and size of tire. I found I can run less with the 225's I guess because the rim is not on the edges as bad.
Anyway, has anyone else ran the track with HIGH psi in their tires with success???
Comment
-
I agree!! But just goes to show that lower isn't always better for traction. You got to experiment!sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Comment
-
I usually agree about NOT heating up street tires. But I'd go up there cold, avoid the box, and spin to the 1/8th.
So, I hit the box, locked my e-brake, and nail it till she smokes over the fenders, pop the e-brake and roll out the burn. When I leave the line, she just bites and goes.
Car is lowered with eibach springs, I've got urethane a-arm bushings, good struts, my tire size is 1 up from stock, 195/70-14 was stock, I got 205/70-14 on her. And I set my pressure at 24 lbs. Seems to get me the most bite. I don't get any wheel hop, ever. She either bites and goes or sits and spins, making a pretty smoke and noise show. I figure it might be the compound.
On a side note.
I've been a mechanic for 16 years. I have never had a formal day of automotive training in my life. I managed to get a master tech certificate too. I have taught myself, researched, and learned the hard way on how to do everything, and I'm still learning. I assist any who ever ask for help. Never do I do something in, about, or to my automobile just because its "cool." If I'm doing it, it's because it works, and the other way didn't. I'm a real nice guy about bending over backward to assist others in learning and "doing it themselves." I don't deserve, nor take kindly to being called stupid. If you have an opinion on something that differs from my own, say the opinion, state your facts, we'll discuss them, but leave the smack talk back in high school. It's not need or appreciated and is really just going to piss me off. This sight has tons of info because people were mature enough to discuss their ideas and not sh*t in one another's face. If you can't do that, go elsewhere. I'm sure there are plenty of people here who can and will back me up on this. EGO mos docui vos per nex.Last edited by 95SleeperAcheiva; 05-07-2009, 06:29 PM.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
Comment
-
The tires I ran 40 psi on had a max rating of like 55 or something crazy high. I was within the safe limits of the tire. I never go over the max rating.
That poor 4t60-e!!!
I'd upgrade to some better/wider wheels... Something you can run a 225 with light weight.
I never get wheel hop on the street but that track was sticky as hell. It only broke free cause of the water then would grab and slam over and over. Not really wheel hop but just slip and grabbing hard over and over. Felt like 6 neutral drops in a few seconds... lol slam slam slam slam
I've had lots of different brands of tires. The worst for traction was kelly navigator golds. Hard as bricks. The others are pretty much all the same, except the 185 tires I have on 14" wheels for winter, just some all-season hankooks are SUPER sticky. I mean these things bite. No spin and no slip in corners really. I'm impressed for paying less than $200 for them installed!! Finally a narrow ass tire to run in winter that isn't half bad!sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Comment
-
I'm considering going to a set of 15" rims and BF goodrich cheaters. but the smallest they have puts my diameter up .5". I don't want to loose any of the time I have now.
Also I just talked to my tranny guy, he's looking into the ratchet shifter with micro switch thing. So am I. We are also considering doing a gear change, 33/37, to get that 3.69 overall ratio out of it, from my current 2.93. I'm thinking if I up the gears to that then the increase in the tires won't hurt me and I might even run faster.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
Comment
-
You need to talk to Lil'Jon (3400-Modified)
He is the resident expert on that trans (13.8's in a hybrid) and he builds his own.
But it is still going to take some computer tuning and all the micro switches and ratchet shifters in the world are not going to do you a damn bit of good if you are fighting the ECU AND whatever converter you have. (FA?)
The 3.69 FDR will help if you can hook it up, but now you are looking at $500 for an LSD.
I'm NOT here to fight!! Trying to steer you into not spending the fortune I did to have a set-up that hooks and doesn't break.
And I don't pay for my trans work!! (Old High School buddy who owns a transmission franchise.)
Have fun.Last edited by asylummotorsports; 05-07-2009, 07:07 PM.
Comment
-
Sounds cool. Higher FDR will help I'm sure! I forget his name but he is on v6z24.com I think he had a thread with how he did it.sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Comment
-
Now that's not fighting, that's intelligent and mature convo.
Yes the comp is a problem, I'm cursed with that obd 1.5. Which brings me to how far I will be able to go before i do a mod and watch the nose drop. I plan on downgrading to an obd 1 and/or a megasquirt. But i got lots to learn if i go megasquirt. Also, if i run into the money i still plan on a getrag. The big chunks of money that are supposed ot come my way just ain't flying like i thought they would. we all know how that goes.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
Comment
-
If you go with the manual control of the solenoids then the computer is out of the equation. In that cause putting MS in would be the easiest. But if you want to go with one ECM to do it all then OBD2 or OBD1 is the way to go of course. I don't know how well the OBD1 defs are opened up for the transmission section.
From what I hear MS is really easy to tune and get going.sigpicNew 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
Comment
-
Ya, you and I have talked about this before. It would be easy if the settings in MS look just like the settings in the current ecu, and if I knew what the settings were in the current ecu, just to go and work from a base line. Then I would just "cut and Paste" then tune from there. TBH, my next mod, after repairs, is a 3.5 UIM, aurora 65mm TB, adapter plate, and home made intake spacers between the upper and lower, just for the heat resistance. But 2 things are stopping that. out of stock on the adapter, and I don't have a clue on where to buy phenolic material locally.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
Comment
Comment