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  • #16
    I just got home from St Thomas Dragway

    New rules for the Street Class. Can't open headers, but drag radials are OK!???

    Best was 14.35 and 95.73 MPH through the mufflers.

    I lost in the Semi Final, but I'll take the $75.

    FWIW
    Last edited by asylummotorsports; 05-04-2009, 09:13 AM.

    Comment


    • #17
      WTF with the rules?
      Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

      Comment


      • #18
        Hey 14.35 through my 2 1/4" exhaust and two mufflers? I'm actually pretty happy knowing that is what it runs stop light to stop light, NOT that I would ever race on the street!!!

        They are trying to make it a True Street Class and I guess that is OK.

        FWIW that is 2 tenths quicker than it ran at B'Fest last June CLOSED UP, and would have been quick enough to claim the trophy I sponsored.

        Credit to Rodney for the chip upgrades, because nothing else has changed. Hell I haven't even changed the plugs.
        Last edited by asylummotorsports; 05-03-2009, 09:38 PM.

        Comment


        • #19
          That's cool, it will only get better!


          You receive my PM on the other board?
          Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

          Comment


          • #20
            Ha! is this an ongoing drag racing thread...lol

            first 3 weeks at the track has been hell. only been able to get 3 races in due to rain. I hope it gets better soon!

            as for my racing... I am a moron and seemed to have gained a liking to red lights... red is my fav color ya know! well actually probably not anymore... blah!

            my dials have been right on.. but my rt times... I am either on th good side of the green... 0.34, .025, .050, .061..ect or they have been on the horrible side of red... .024, .050..ect where is my happy medium?? I lost my mojo i think.. this season is going to be horrible.

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by Jene View Post
              Ha! is this an ongoing drag racing thread...lol

              first 3 weeks at the track has been hell. only been able to get 3 races in due to rain. I hope it gets better soon!

              as for my racing... I am a moron and seemed to have gained a liking to red lights... red is my fav color ya know! well actually probably not anymore... blah!

              my dials have been right on.. but my rt times... I am either on th good side of the green... 0.34, .025, .050, .061..ect or they have been on the horrible side of red... .024, .050..ect where is my happy medium?? I lost my mojo i think.. this season is going to be horrible.
              Relax Jene. We all go through these spells from time to time.

              Anyone who has raced regularly for more than a couple of years will relate the horror stories of "brain Farts" and spells of silliness they have endured.

              You'll be fine.

              Just keep at it.

              You're good and you know you are, so just buckle up and get back there next race.

              Comment


              • #22
                95Sleeper what do you have done to your car again? That's a very good time for an OBD1.5 car! What FDR do you have?
                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                Original L82 Longblock
                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                Comment


                • #23
                  I can just be seen being called "LIAR!" after posting this.

                  1995 4-door acheiva, originally had the 3.1L in it.

                  Motor is a 3.4L out of a 2004 Alero
                  Port matched LIM and polished the whole runners to 240 grit.
                  spun a rod, 2 years ago at 29k miles on motor.
                  replaced #3 and #4 rod with used 120k+ mile rods from original 3.1L.
                  replaced crank. New crank was cut .25mm.
                  just replaced the gaskets, new main and rod bearings, original rings.
                  crammed about a 1/4" worth of washers on the oil pump spring, and upped the oil pressure to 45 lbs at idle and coolant at 175.
                  mustang thermostat 160 degree.
                  FAFB converter
                  205/70-14 firestone indy 500 tires. (2 years old rubber) can't replace em when they done.
                  K&N filter.
                  removed blower motor and air box.
                  removed guts of rear bumper
                  cut exhaust off in front of converter, got about 28" of pipe from manifold.
                  blocked off egr port
                  removed brake booster hose, I lost the nipple to the UIM.
                  blocked off back port on back valve cover with freeze plug
                  plugged pcv port on top of TB.
                  by-passed TB coolant
                  pcv has hose that runs off of it, and down to the inner fender where it dumps on ground.
                  shoved another IAT sensor into rubber air intake to plug the old return line.
                  removed cruise control, rear speakers, sound insulation along rear deck and under rear seat, and removed rear seat belts.
                  eiback springs for a 1.5" drop.

                  Sounds like alot, but it ain't. Lots of little detail work.

                  oh, removed a/c system, and installed a by-pass pulley.

                  Everything else is stock 1995.
                  the injectors are 2004 3.4 and are being run by the stock OBD 1.5.
                  and the FDR, whatever came with it in '95. I saw it posted here somewhere....
                  sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                  A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                  Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                  Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                  PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    FAFB = what stall?

                    Aren't your brakes near impossible to press down on and stop? LOL

                    A better setup for your PCV system would be to install the PCV back to stock (put a catch can if you don't want the oil in the intake) and then put a breather on the back valve cover. Not only do you get benefits from vacuum in the crank case but you also evac all the fuel and blow by fumes so it doesn't collect into your oil and make your oil useless/diluted.

                    What exhaust manifolds are you using? 3100 or 3400? Where does the exit come out at? on the side or center?

                    What FPR are you running? 3100 or 3400 one?

                    14.7 is respectable from a pretty much stock un-tuned 3400!!!

                    oh and in Beavis and Butthead voice "LIAR LIAR LIAR!" LOL
                    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                    Original L82 Longblock
                    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      An FAFB would be 2795 at least according to my info.


                      I can believe the 14.7 time.

                      That is pretty damn impressive, but not unbelievable. It's Spring and the temps are cool and the humidity is non existent.

                      Well done!

                      And put the PCV back in! It is a good system, and if you want a breather in the rear as Isaac suggested.
                      Last edited by asylummotorsports; 05-04-2009, 07:16 PM.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        oops, thought you ment final drive.

                        FPR stock 3.4

                        according to the definition of "flash" stall, around 3800. But thats reading a stock 14 year old, 140k mile tach.

                        now, question....
                        my gear selector shows, P-R-N-D-3-2. and its a 4T60e. Shouldn't I be able to get 1st gear? I'd like to lock into 1st gear for burnout, and I'd like to be able to manually shift. The 5700 RPM gear change is killing me.

                        If i get a gear selector out of another car with that trans, I should be able too right?

                        BTW, the brakes are bitch HARD! But it reminds me of my manual disc brake 1970 W-31. She was a scary slow down too. But, slowing down from 135 MPH and a 10.25 sec pass.

                        Oh the pcv thing.... I'll give it a shot. Once she stops running faster every pass. I think she's still breaking in.
                        Last edited by 95SleeperAcheiva; 05-04-2009, 09:27 PM.
                        sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
                        A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
                        Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
                        Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
                        PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.

                        Comment


                        • #27

                          Read that. When in L it will be in 1st until you go 40mph or something then it short shifts you into 2nd. Then it will hold 2nd until redline. Or if you pull it to L above 20mph, you will stay in 2nd. Slow down past 20 and it slams into first.

                          There is a guy on V6z24 with a 3.8 turbo sunbird and a 65-e with microswitches to shift the soleniods by hand. You could look into that to get more RPM.

                          I'd do the PCV now. It's not going to hurt anything only help. It will help the rings seat better and prevent other problems.
                          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                          Original L82 Longblock
                          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by asylummotorsports View Post
                            Hey 14.35 through my 2 1/4" exhaust and two mufflers? I'm actually pretty happy knowing that is what it runs stop light to stop light, NOT that I would ever race on the street!!!

                            They are trying to make it a True Street Class and I guess that is OK.

                            FWIW that is 2 tenths quicker than it ran at B'Fest last June CLOSED UP, and would have been quick enough to claim the trophy I sponsored.

                            Credit to Rodney for the chip upgrades, because nothing else has changed. Hell I haven't even changed the plugs.
                            Not too shabby... and yeah I got that trophie but remember that night I was running at a 14:1 a/f ratio at WOT... not very optimum, and I still got faster than you LOL

                            I swear if I had your size DR's on my car I would have been running 13.8's at New England Dragway last year... I was solid 14.0's all day with wheel spin out the arse, but as you saw at NE once I put the 25" dia DR's on I slow down about 1-2 tenths.

                            Got Lope?
                            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Jon if you don't have different tires by Albany you should make a couple of runs on mine and see what actually happens (assuming you can stay off the bottle).

                              There might be a 13.75 in that damn thing!

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                I wont have different tires. I'm keeping the 25's since I'll be doing the higher stall converter, AND the bottle, so if I were to get a smaller tire I think that would emphasize a possible wheel spin issue that I might end up having. Also I'll be running the larger front brakes, so yeah I may do a run or two on your tires n/a to see what happens BUT the big brake upgrade may kill a little bit of that time.

                                Got Lope?
                                3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                                Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                                Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                                12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                                Comment

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