Yeah, I know about the distributor O ring. But I've also seen the cam covers, cam carriers, intermediate shaft block off plate and the head gaskets all leak. I just installed a different engine in my Z that I tore down, inspected and reassembled. Because I didn't have enough money, I just installed new gaskets, rod bearings and new timing belt components. Never thought to check the timing chain. Everything worked great until I started the car. Ran 15 seconds, died , won't restart. Timing belt is not spinning when the engine turns over. Pulled the plastic timing belt cover, everything looks good, Tensioner is still in place, no slack in the belt, cams are still lined up. I figure it must be the timing chain. I'm too frustrated to go any further with this car. I've already spent all the money I had on this can of worms and there is no end in sight. I thought I was close but boy was I wrong. I am done for now. Maybe next week I'll work on it, if I don't burn this bitch first.
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RANT!! @%$*!? GM pieces of shit!
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I've re-used my stock valve cover gaskets 3 times now, and they don't leak. Heh just walk away and come back later with a fresh mind/eyes. Sometimes you get burnt out, but keep plugging along and eventually you'll kick it's ass!sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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that sux, i thought the chains were pretty durable too. you make sure the timing belt drive gear is aligned with the timing chain gear properly? i have had to do the quick o-ring fix to all 3 lq1's i have had, but other than that they are dry as a bone.The Official Rotating Mass Nazi
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My 1991 GTP was very clean, the amount of oil it leaked was below average, and never was lower then a 1/2 quart at oil changes.
It still had the original felt under the hood even, however showed its age.
I did a good amount of lacked maintainence to it when I got the got the car down to the heads and all appeared fine even the block was dry. The only thing that seeped oil to a degree that made the undercarrage have some oil was the fact the Getrag leaked about a pint a year.
I had a temp switch turn on my secondary fan at a certain temp, another to turn on the primary if it got too hot, they usually never turn off in summer so I just triggered the secondary relay with a switch. I also put in a cooler t-stat in spring, I flushed it once a year, I know anal but I took care of her.Last edited by Juglenaut; 06-30-2006, 10:05 PM.I am back
Mechanical/Service Technican
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Well the late 80's and 90's did ruin the reputation of American Car makers. The K car was the leader of the pack. Things are getting better though.
The paint is PPG's fault. They only put UV protectant in the clear coat which was not enough and the paint on every car that had PPG paint and was subject to sunlight failed. PPG did repaint cars that were early peelers. But if you have a late one then your paying from your own pocket. PPG fixed the problem within 2 years of its release and produces very high quality paint to this day.1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
Because... I am, CANADIAN
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someone said something about what do you expect from 200k, and 14 years? lol...... GM just sucks, and their mass producion sucks, their engineers just suck...... suck suck suck......
I was looking on buying a used car..... VW jetta... like an 89', so thats 17 years.... and there was 491000Kms on is... started up nice, and ran......
and my buddies bimmer, I think he changed the oil and fucked up, and all the oil drained outta it..... the oil light came on , and he still drove it home, like
10kms... and it didn't sieze up....
all the 60 degree V6 with their PLASTIC intake gaskets that were designed to fail at 120,000kms.... Crack upon installation....lol... Hence after 10 years they come out with the updated steel ones.....
At least somewhere in the world they're making cars properly.......
Not here, but somewhere..... Germany.....
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My dad's 97 bmw is a money pit. He's replaced tons of stuff on it, from any thing to everything. window motors x3, drive shaft, whole a/c, cooling system, engine gaskets, e-brake, etc etc etc. And it goes nutty on shifting when it rains. Oh and the radio/climate controls function randomly. Oh and a wheel hub too.
Maybe it's a lemon, but man it's a high maintenence car compared to mine! And I have more miles!sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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German cars have enough electrical problems to give them the slogan "Domestic reliability, with Import repair pricing" The only car makers worthy of being called "reliable" are a pair of Japanese companies, and it's not Nissan or Mitsushitsy.Brian
'95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's
'08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD
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I specialized in German cars for one reason. They break. What more do you want in job security than a poorly engineered car using technology from the '70's? I see more Mercedes Benz, BMW, & Lexus, than GM and Ford combined.
If you ask me about auto quality... Nobody has built a real car since 1970. Screw crumple zones, put more steel in it. Air bags? Didn't know you liked your face broken for a 20 MPH impact, oh it saves lives at high speed? Has anyone seen a high speed collision? The car doesn't stop after the first hit it keeps moving, so the air bag just broke your nose, blinded you, and knocked your hands off the wheel, now you have to fight to get your hands back onto the wheel and hope you can regain control of your spinning car. If airbags were so good why don't they use them in racing? Give me a roll cage, 5-point harness anytime.sigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
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