External crank triggers

[geoffinbc]

So yea i'm gonna start pumpin some out. I will be welding the to the back of the pulley on RWD engines. I have not worked on a FWD pulley/damper yet but I will

Here is a preview

[bszopi]

RE: External crank triggers

Never any thanks... :P

Be interesting to see how it works. Come up with a design for the sensor arm and I'll see what I can do for you.

[geoffinbc]

Oh yea Brad made the drwaing cuz he reeks of awsomeness.

[RacerX11]

How thick is the plate? Material? What sensor is it designed to be used with, the stock one?

Marty

[Guest]

I still think this is going to be difficult to make and sell, well that part will be easy, the hard part will be install, where the niotches have to line up in the right spot, which when it's like this could be 360* of error. When it's like a conventiinal external crank trigger, there would be four locations. All that is required is a few additianl 1/4" thick spacers (or how ever thick the timing wheel is), they could even be made from washers.

[geoffinbc]

There will be 4 locations. Turn the pulley, in the case of a RWD motor. What I will do is have the refrence notch in line whith the sensor when the engine is at TDC #1. Then fine adjustment to timing will be done with a movable sensor.

[bszopi]

I don't know if it got cut out or not, but I put in a notch in the drawing to align to the key on the crank. So, as long as the sensor could be placed approximately where it would be stock (on a DIS engine), then it shouldn't be that hard to align correctly.

[Guest]

I don't know if it got cut out or not, but I put in a notch in the drawing to align to the key on the crank. So, as long as the sensor could be placed approximately where it would be stock (on a DIS engine), then it shouldn't be that hard to align correctly.

Actually it will be very difficult, this is why we "turned" the wheel by 20* IIRC so that the sensor could be mounted in an easier location. I just didn't see enough space or an easy way to make a sensor bracket that would mimic that location close enough.

BTY: So you will weld the rings onto pulleys before you send them out? What about those that want/have UD pulleys?

I'm also concerned with the locating of the ring, though if it's welded to the pulley on a proper centering jig, then there shuld be no problems. But I know with the sandwhich way (which I feel is a better way), that there needs to be a step in the center of the plate to locate it to the ballancer AND for the pulley to center on.

I need to take mine apart and get pics for you guys.

FWIW, we looked at making mine the same way, but found that we would need to weld the plate onto the pulley and THEN machine it, so that it ran true and didn't have any changes after welding.

[Guest]

The FWD version should be VERY easy, since it would just need to bolt to the outside of the balancer/pulley. This applies to the pushrod version, DOHC would need to be something similar to RWD.

[geoffinbc]

Well if someone had UD pullies they could send them to me and I will put the ring on.

The ring is a press fit to the back of the pulley right now. All I have to do it put 4 1" long beads on the back to stop it from moving. I will tig it and then I will spin it on a lathe and check for runout. But I am confident it will work quite well.

[Guest]

Well if someone had UD pullies they could send them to me and I will put the ring on.

The ring is a press fit to the back of the pulley right now. All I have to do it put 4 1" long beads on the back to stop it from moving. I will tig it and then I will spin it on a lathe and check for runout. But I am confident it will work quite well.

Oh I'm not saying it won't work, just that it's a much more involved way than it needs to be, that's all.

Pssst, the UD pulleys are aluminium and smaller than the OEM pulley, making it not a press fit.

[Doward]

Hm... Be interesting to see how this pans out.

[geoffinbc]

Oh I'm not saying it won't work, just that it's a much more involved way than it needs to be, that's all.

Pssst, the UD pulleys are aluminium and smaller than the OEM pulley, making it not a press fit.

Its ok I can get anything cut any size. If the UD pullies are aluminum I could make a 2 piece ring with an aluminum inner for welding and a steel outer for the sensor.

My whole aim is to make a bolt on bracket and pulley/ring assembly that takes minimal work. I dont want to have to shim all the accessories or their pulleis.

[bszopi]

Why not just make the whole ring out of aluminum instead of a 2-piece unit?

[Guest]

The ring or trigger wheel needs to be made from steel, it has to be magnetic, aluminium is not magnetic.

BTY, how hard is it to shim everything? Better question, how long will it take? about an extra 20 minutes, and it would be true bolt on then, no modification to the pulleys, at all.

Just take 10 minutes to look at an MSD ignition crank trigger, the way it's designed is to have the shims with it. The shims will ALWAYS be the same thickness as the trigger wheel, so they will be extremely easy to make and install.

The way I look at it is this, if you're in the need for a crank trigger then you won't mind the time it takes to add the shims/spacers, since they will be a minor detail, in the grand scheme of things.

But I seem to look at things differently than everybody else it seems. :-?