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  • #31
    Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

    Originally posted by Rhedalert
    I did read what you wrote genius, you're just a flat out liar. You just never looked, it's not hard to tell that a balljoint or tie rod end needs replacing when the BOOT IS GONE, especially on a sealed unit. Even if they had no play without the boot, how much longer do you think you'll get when they're exposed like that? And as for that hub, I'll be damned if that wasn't causing a humming or vibration, I've had those hubs go out before and they ALWAYS show signs of crapping out LONG before they separate like that. My sister's Cutlass I sold for $600 would have been a great parts car for Tony, all that stuff I had replaced myself and then some But that's not my business or concern (I just find it funny) so just disregard this whole message
    How did I lie? I took the car up to 100+ mph MULTIPLE times, and a few times with Tony in the car. The fact that neither of us noticed anything wrong, even at those speeds, proves that I couldn't feel a thing. For reference, my red Z34 (108k), feels identical to the white car in every way, except for power of course. There was no humming, and vibration. I never looked? I'm glad you have a camera on me while I work on my car cuz you know everything I do it seems. I've had that fucking wheel off more times than you've had sex. 6 alternators, 2 tranny swaps, 2 engine swaps, 1 cradle drop, etc. I am no stranger to looking at those parts. But I flat out did not know what they are supposed to look like, I just knew how mine looked. The parts in the red car looked all but identical when I put in the motor.

    Originally posted by dohcfiend
    man, this thread is still going? haven't seen this much enthusiasm in a while, LOL. Put this enthusiasm to good use and make me some cam gears or headers

    it may be just me, but judging from those pics tony i think it might be helpful to box the frame/cradle in a little. better safe than sorry. not saying you need to weld and modify the exhaust maybe just a bolt-on piece for the bottom for rigidity's sake. perhaps i should have made this a pm......oh well too late now.

    EDIT: unless ben hooks you up tony, you will be really good at replacing alternators. i don't know if he mentioned this to you be4 the sale but

    "I have the alt cooling duct, and have gone through 6 alternators in the past 3 years, and my wiring is all new. I'm just saying, that I've had these problems, and it may not be a good thing. "
    As for the camp gears and headers, I'm workin on it

    I agree that boxing the frame in would help a lot. The reason I didn't do it, although it was considered, was because of ground clearence issues, rattling against the downpipe, and ease of removal. By using bolts and having the nuts on top, it'd be a real bitch to remove.

    I was having a lot of problems with the alternator, but this one seems to be good as I havn't had any issues. Also with the new alternator I got an Optima battery, and that helped a lot. So hopefully this one lasts a while, I expect it to.

    Originally posted by 5speedz34
    I'm still very happy with the car, although now I kinda do feel I paid alot, but oh well shit happens.
    I don't think you paid a lot at all. Look at what you got:
    Lumina Z34 5-speed in good condition: $3500
    BRAND NEW ENGINE: $3000
    Tranny with 108k: Came out of the red car, which was bought for $900
    The mods: Tuned equal length headers, and all the small stuff, worth easily $100-$200 each.

    $4500 is a lot for a Z34 I'll agree, but when Ben admits its "Damn fast," and with all the parts that were on it, it was worth every penny of $4500.

    I am done with this topic, it is useless, and the only people posting (except Ben and Tony), have no idea whatsoever of what the car looked like, drove, felt, etc. They weren't there, they don't know Tony or me, they are just here to bash me for whatever reason. I feel thsi thread needs to be locked now, and then I can go into hiding until I see something in buy/sell/trade that I want.

    Comment


    • #32
      I agree with Aaron, this is kind of beating a dead horse and that this thread should be done with.

      Aaron and I discussed stuff and everything seems like it's working out fine.


      1992 Lumina Z34 | 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60º V6; Getrag 284 |
      1994 Pontiac Grand Prix GTP | 3.4L 207ci DOHC 60º V6; Hydra-Matic 4T60E |

      Comment


      • #33
        So wait! I'm lost!
        Then again its none of my business, but..... wait! Half the posters/tools that did post in here, it wasn't any of their business either!!! Same with the person making a thread like this!

        If 5speedz34 Has said more then Once that he was happy with the purchase...then why is this thread here?

        Now this goes both ways (at no time am I calling anyone a liar), If the car is going 100+ with both parties in the car....And it makes noticable vibrations or humming at those speed I'm sure that 5speedz34 would have Gotten the gut feeling that something was not right. I could be wrong but not likely!

        So I'm more amused by this site today then I have Been for awhile!

        5speedz34: Tell me I was wrong with the part about you being happy with the purchase??

        At this point I only have sympathy for Aaron, Funny how fast the tools on this site will Run to bash someone!!!

        Pathetic

        Comment


        • #34
          I agree, both parties are happy. Time to lock this one.
          If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
          sigpic

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          • #35
            Done.
            -Brad-
            89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
            sigpic
            Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

            Comment


            • #36
              RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

              You can't tell me this thread didnt have a purpose. Pictures, of the rear headers to be exact. How not to mount your O2 sensor...info good for those wanting to fabricate. Learn from other's mistakes, thats what its all about. Aaron, you are telling me that in all the time you owned the car, you never checked out the ball joints, hubs, tie rod ends? I find that hard to believe, but you are a special kind of enthusiast, one that doesn't concern himself with safety apparently.

              Its not my problem, but I find it funny how you said "you know I take good care of my car". So yeah, I posted for a good laugh at your expense cause you walked right into it. Even after you knew what all was wrong and how dangerous it was, you still insist you took good care of the car. Thats just comedy and it needed to be shared.


              Ok, so onto some specifics with your post to me aaron, cause im on my lunch break and could use some entertainment.

              "I think it is kind of funny that you can diss the wiring, telling everyone what the problem is and how bad I fucked everything up, yet you were completely wrong."

              What was I wrong about? How did it work just fine when it failed to start for tony in IOWA before he got to me. Hmmm, yeah, you did real good there kid, try again. I did fix the wiring in a sense, cause when it was starting, it started right up, no slow crank when cold. The starter has now been hit with a hammer so many times, maybe it does need one. You can quote me on this though, its still not going to start for shit when its hot.

              You want to know why im getting into your business? Cause you have been a real big blemish on this community, the local idiot that talks arrogantly about how great he is and all he does turns to gold. How your headers are the BEST and can never been made better. Well, i just proved your design is flawed, so go down a fucking peg already!

              It sounds like im brainwashing tony? Why, cause I told him to call you and see what you thought about all the fucked up shit on the car? Hey man, thats what I would do if I bought a car from someone that supposedly deserves respect and knows what they are doing when it comes to cars, and the car ends up being unsafe.

              I have changed my mind now, tony is lucky you didnt touch the suspension. If you would have done the suspension like you did the headers and intake manifold swap, the car would have surely fallen apart on the trip. Is that better?
              Ben
              60DegreeV6.com
              WOT-Tech.com

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              • #37
                RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

                Nice try brad:P
                Ben
                60DegreeV6.com
                WOT-Tech.com

                Comment


                • #38
                  RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

                  Its locked for other to post... But us special ones can still post.

                  I was going to just delete the whole thread, but as stated, this is a small amount of pertanent info in the thread, so I kept it.
                  -Brad-
                  89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
                  sigpic
                  Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

                    I was typing that out as you locked it:P Im actually done with this. I didnt see a need to post more till aaron decided it was my fault the car wouldn't start now.
                    Ben
                    60DegreeV6.com
                    WOT-Tech.com

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