.

[White93z34]

wow... i mean i like my cars to go quick, but shit i have priorities like balljoints ans suspension. that subframe... it scares me, it apears that he boxed it in well, but it still looks awful thin.

[Synestral]

It's really too bad he had to find out the hard way not to buy from that particular Aaron. I don't know how much Tony knows about cars, but it's too bad he trusted the seller to be honest instead of getting under the car himself and seeing what was there. Caveat Emptor, words from an ancient language that still hold meaning today, really sad commentary about human nature if you ask me.

[RednBlack]

Caveat Emptor

That mean "Kick the tires?"

[dohcfiend]

ROFL

[SappySE107]

Had he kicked the tires, he would have probably broken the hub in half right then and there!

[Anonymous]

Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

So why did he sell it? Tired of people talking isht?

I was banned, a few times...It is an agreement between Ben and me that I can be here again, solely for buy/sell/trade. But I feel I need to respond to this.

I sold it becuz I amd one with it. I do not like the Z34s as a whole, the only really part I enjoyed is the engine. My new Fiero weighs a lot less, looks better IMO, handles better, and has a much larger aftermarket.

what did he pay for the car?

He paid $4500 as stated above. He got it with every modification I had done to it, and I did all of the labor on the 96 intake swap. I let him stay at my house for the 5 days, and he ate our food, free of charge. I also drove over 3 hours to pick him up, despite an airport being just 15min away.

I don't even want to know what Tony paid. Absolutely fucking incredible, and he talked like his shit didn't stink. How's that "spacer flange" holding up under the upper radiator hose?

It was holding up fine, its only purpose is to keep the upper hose from contacting the header primary, and it works fine.

He called it a spacer flange? Wow, what a fucking idiot.

I never called it that, but that is an accurate description of it, so IMO a "spacer flange" is a fine name for it.

Yeah, its a clean car with potential, but for what aaron says about taking care of a car...ROFL! Tony fixed a lot of stuff already so yeah, at least its in good hands now.

I told Tony flat out that I have never messed with the suspension. With 137k, it can be assumed some of the stuff needs to be replaced. It got Mobil 1 and a PureOne filter every 3000 miles strictly, had GM synchromesh since I owned it, the body was in good shape, and the interior was fine. For a 15-yr old car, it was taken care of well.

Man! Both parties are lucky! Ban E Check and bring back Safety Check! He couldn't have sold that car in Missouri!

I will quote the bill of sale here, "The car is sold as-is, with no warranty. The car is picked up by the buyer, and becomes his/her full responsibility after the point of sale." In addition, we went to Jiffy Lube on multiple occasions, he had more than one opportunity to inspect the car from underneath, of which he did not take advantage of. I did all I could, and was as honest as possible. As I told him, I did not know there was a problem. If I did, I would have certainly informed him. I did not hide anything, and answered truthfully to every questioned asked.

wow... i mean i like my cars to go quick, but shit i have priorities like balljoints ans suspension. that subframe... it scares me, it apears that he boxed it in well, but it still looks awful thin.

I have my priorites too. Under the hood was it. I didn't buy a 3400+ lb Lumina to take corners. And one glance under the hood will show that I spent a lot of time there, and upkept it well. I couldn't notice a difference after the headers, other than it sounded worse, and was a helluva lot faster. As far as its stability and handling goes, it was identical to my red Z34 as good as I could tell.

I did not have the time, knowledge, or tools to know the enigne problems at the time. The idle passage was hard to fabricate, and took a skilled welder to do. Again, ahd I known it was too small, I would've made it bigger. The same applies with the leaks, I had to make my own gasket, and it obviously didn't work perfectly.

It's really too bad he had to find out the hard way not to buy from that particular Aaron. I don't know how much Tony knows about cars, but it's too bad he trusted the seller to be honest instead of getting under the car himself and seeing what was there.

How was I not honest about it? I did everything I could to make this sale go through without problems. He had open access to anything he wanted to do, and he ate our food, and stayed at my house, free of charge. What could I have done more? If I knew there was a problem, he would have undoubtably known about it. He had many opportunites to get underneath it, including open acces to a bay at Joffy Lube, where might I add he also got a quart of Mobil 1, brake fluid, power steering fluid, and a gallon of coolant for free.

So all in all, he said he was very happy with the car, which is enough for me. I couldn't have done more IMHO. he bought a used car, with 137 thousand miles, and 15 years old. It isn't going to be like new. But the body was good, Ben admits it was "damn fast," it was rust-free, and it felt stable on the road. Tony in fact got a ticket for 84 in a 75. IMO, going 84 and it being stable shows the problem's invisibility. I took the car up to 115 with Tony in it, and it felt good as ever. I'm not saying there wasn't a problem, but it felt normal.

[bszopi]

RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

So you are a hospitable person instead of being a jerk and making him stay at a hotel and buy his own food. And that is a reason to justify the cost of the car? Gee... way to be a nice guy! God forbid you be nice to a fellow enthusiast and not complain about it!

[Anonymous]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

So you are a hospitable person instead of being a jerk and making him stay at a hotel and buy his own food. And that is a reason to justify the cost of the car? Gee... way to be a nice guy! God forbid you be nice to a fellow enthusiast and not complain about it!

I'm not complaining about it at all, but for all I did to make this happen, $4500 is a good deal. He would be looking at nearly $1000 extra just to get the car had I not helped out.

As I said before, I did everything in my power to be as honest as possible answering all of his questions, and to make it a good deal for the both of us.

[Rhedalert]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

you took that car up to those speeds, with balljoints like that and a hub in 2 pieces? It just takes 1 balljoint failure to pretty much send you off the planet at that speed. THAT'S why it becomes a priority. Not because of cornering or handling.

[Anonymous]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

you took that car up to those speeds, with balljoints like that and a hub in 2 pieces? It just takes 1 balljoint failure to pretty much send you off the planet at that speed. THAT'S why it becomes a priority. Not because of cornering or handling.

If you read what I wrote, you'd realize that I didn't know they were bad. Had I known, I wouldn't have driven it period, let alone at 100+mph. But I didn't know, and couldn't tell. It does become a priority when it impacts safety, and it did, but I did not know there was a problem to begin with.

Also, the car won't start when its hot cause the battery is in the trunk, and the wreck of power wires all half assed spliced together (and the line from the starter to the battery in a stock location was cut in half, then half assed spliced in place!). The alarm was wired up pretty lame as well and wires are all wrapped around the steering column where it connects to the rack. There is no boot around the rack to column connection either.

You make me and my work sound really stupid here. I will agree the wiring isn't the best, that is why I no longer use the shop I did. I didn't do any of the wiring you mentioned, becuz I am not knowledged in it. I do not know how to relocate batteries, so I don't do it. After learning the guy I had do it does crappy work, I go elseware. That alarm has been on the car since I bought it, it was installed (If you can call it that...), by the previous owner. I also think it is bullshit and half-ass, which is why I cut a lot of its wires off. But I did not completely remove it becuz I wasn't sure which wires were for the alarm, which were for critical engine things. So I didn't fix what wasn't broken.

I think it is kind of funny that you can diss the wiring, telling everyone what the problem is and how bad I fucked everything up, yet you were completely wrong. I'm not saying the wiring was done right, it most obviously wasn't, but it worked just fine. That's right, after you "fixed it," by redoing the wiring, it didn't do a damn thing, the car still won't start 1/2 the time. I think it is the starter solonoid. He has bought a new starter, and will be installing it soon, that should fix it.

I talked with Tony tonight for a while, and we are as cool as ever. He uses common sense that a car with 140k, and no suspension work, is going to need parts, and he can understand this. I do not know why you have to 1) Get into our business, 2) Try to create problems by posting, and 3) Insult me. Tony is dissapointed a little, who wouldn't be, but overall, he is still very happy with the car. It sounds to me like you are brainwashing him. So Ben, please do Tony and I a favor, and drop it. I am not trying to insult you like you have me, in fact I wish to remain in contact as both of us have a lot to offer the DOHC community IMHO, but I do not think this post was neccesary, as all it is for is to bash me. And it is ironic, everyone here thinks that I am white trash essentially, yet both parties DIRECTLY involved with the sale of the car are happy with the result.

[Rhedalert]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

you took that car up to those speeds, with balljoints like that and a hub in 2 pieces? It just takes 1 balljoint failure to pretty much send you off the planet at that speed. THAT'S why it becomes a priority. Not because of cornering or handling.

If you read what I wrote, you'd realize that I didn't know they were bad. Had I known, I wouldn't have driven it period, let alone at 100+mph. But I didn't know, and couldn't tell. It does become a priority when it impacts safety, and it did, but I did not know there was a problem to begin with.

I did read what you wrote genius, you're just a flat out liar. You just never looked, it's not hard to tell that a balljoint or tie rod end needs replacing when the BOOT IS GONE, especially on a sealed unit. Even if they had no play without the boot, how much longer do you think you'll get when they're exposed like that? And as for that hub, I'll be damned if that wasn't causing a humming or vibration, I've had those hubs go out before and they ALWAYS show signs of crapping out LONG before they separate like that. My sister's Cutlass I sold for $600 would have been a great parts car for Tony, all that stuff I had replaced myself and then some But that's not my business or concern (I just find it funny) so just disregard this whole message

[5speedz34]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

Well, I talked to Aaron. As stated in the bill of sale he won't be reimbursing me for the parts. Which call me a idiot, but I understand because I was in position before and I know how he feels. As for the way he took care of the car, everything is tip top under the hood (for the most part) and body-wise. Other than that the car really wasn't touched anywhere else.

I'm still very happy with the car, although now I kinda do feel I paid alot, but oh well shit happens.

[5speedz34]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

I did read what you wrote genius, you're just a flat out liar. You just never looked, it's not hard to tell that a balljoint or tie rod end needs replacing when the BOOT IS GONE, especially on a sealed unit. Even if they had no play without the boot, how much longer do you think you'll get when they're exposed like that? And as for that hub, I'll be damned if that wasn't causing a humming or vibration, I've had those hubs go out before and they ALWAYS show signs of crapping out LONG before they separate like that. My sister's Cutlass I sold for $600 would have been a great parts car for Tony, all that stuff I had replaced myself and then some But that's not my business or concern (I just find it funny) so just disregard this whole message

The only thing pointing to something in the car that was bad, was some play in the steering wheel which IMO is somewhat common on alot of the W's, and I think it something I will have to replace in the column itself.

The only thing we could tell in Colorado was the CV shaft.

[dohcfiend]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

man, this thread is still going? haven't seen this much enthusiasm in a while, LOL. Put this enthusiasm to good use and make me some cam gears or headers

it may be just me, but judging from those pics tony i think it might be helpful to box the frame/cradle in a little. better safe than sorry. not saying you need to weld and modify the exhaust maybe just a bolt-on piece for the bottom for rigidity's sake. perhaps i should have made this a pm......oh well too late now.

EDIT: unless ben hooks you up tony, you will be really good at replacing alternators. i don't know if he mentioned this to you be4 the sale but

"I have the alt cooling duct, and have gone through 6 alternators in the past 3 years, and my wiring is all new. I'm just saying, that I've had these problems, and it may not be a good thing. "

[5speedz34]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Never buy a car from aaron

Yeah, believe me I've owned 2 Z34's before this one and I'm getting good at taking out alts.

About the frame Ben and I both agreed that some kind of bolt on piece across the bottom would help and be beneficial.