Clueless on paint guns and type of paint

[dykz34]

thanks for the help dave.

You are very welcome, sir.

[PlatinumZ34]

just go buy a whole bunch of cans of touch-up paint.

[gpse3400]

HVLP gravity feed guns are about the easiest to use for average users (like yours truly) CH does make a good one but I have used the cheaper knockoff models for around $85 and they work good, just keep them clean! Run lots of reducer thru the gun after you're finished.

For paint, best bang for the buck that I've researched and used is the PPG Omni lineup (urethane paint, not lacquer or acrylic crap). You can get a BC/CC setup , or "single stage" (great for white, black, and red) Also have the supply shop set you up with a suitable primer, the stuff I used was PURPLE (it wasnt epoxy primer, though that stuff is tough as nails. I'll have to get back to you on that one)

Did someone say HVLP?????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????????????? DId somebody say Lacquer????OOhh hwat about Enamel???

[Streetrodder83]

HVLP is High Volume Low Pressure, it offers a high transfer rate of paint. But, tends to leave a mottled finish. Most professional painters don't care for them and are only used in production shops to meet VOC regulations. Since, you aren't in a shop I would get a conventional gun, the transfer rate isn't as good, but it provides better atomization of the paint helping to put down a better finish. Laying down a single stage paint is going to be much easier for a first timer. A 2K system can be difficult because it is very easy to run clear, orange peel, and mottle. If you do go with a 2K do several practice panels to get used to spraying clear. Where alot of paint jobs fail is in the prep stage. Make sure you use wax and grease remover over the entire car before you start snading the car. You will imbed any junk into the paint and metal. These will cause all sorts of problems, causing paint to lift or fisheye. A urethane enamel is going to be the better paint to use for a lasting paint job versus laquer. Lacquers tend to crack after a few years. Also if you do go down to bare metal, use a metal etch it will help prevent rust down the road just do not apply it over any polyester filler aka Bondo. Depending on the results you are after, makes the whole process more complicated. For my paint jobs I have three seperate guns one for primer, one for topcoats, and one for clear. To prevent any contamination, you can use one you just have to clean it extremely well.

[Zboy]

If you paint in a a garage try to have a flow through ventilation system. When I paint cars I open a window, get a big furnace filter and seal it to the window with duct tape. close the garage door onto a large box fan blowing out side. seal around the fan with plastic. wet down the garage floor generously, place a filter over the furnace or heater ( if you have one ) and your ready to paint. Furnace filters come in hundreds of shapes and sizes. The last pack I bought at Kmart was 3 for $1.98. That paint job had three dust spots in it and we painted a 3/4s of a Ford Explorer. Not bad at all, and it beats having to wet sand the hell out of it.

[grandprixgtp_91]

the best thing to do is rent a heated booth if you can afford it. you really want to bake the paint on.

Jake

[dykz34]

By then you might as well take it to a shop considering the cost of paint, rental, gun, practice time, etc. Just do all the bodywork yourself and have the shop spray the car. Paint time isn't that expensive, it's the bodywork hours that rack up the bills along with the disassemble and reassemble times. Trust me on this, my dad paints cars professionally and it doesn't take him long AT ALL to spray parts. If you break down a shop estimate, look at the materials vs. labor costs and you will see what I'm talking about.

PS: It's so nice to not have to ever worry about paying someone to paint.

[SappySE107]

I wont be doing this till spring, though I could use the heater in the garage (electric, not kerosene...dunno how burning chemicals would react to the paint). I have a spare hood to test on, and will be practicing on the trunk lid as well. I plan on pulling the trim/bumpers off but im more curious about the weatherstripping. Masking it off is one thing but id like to strip all the paint on the car and repaint it with the weatherstripping off. I will have had this car for 10 years next year and don't have any plans of selling it soon so I want it to look as nice as I can do it. Its not a show car so if its not perfect, I don't care either. Its got small dings (not dents, just fish eye looking crap) that will probably continue to be there after im done with it as well. I have heard of using dry ice to pop them out but I dunno about going that far. Its idealy just a big practice car for painting. Hell, its gone through a few transformations under the engine bay and interior already so I may as well rack up some painting experience on this car.

[bszopi]

We've painted a car or 2 heating the garage with a kerosene heater...

[grandprixgtp_91]

oh yeah its very possible ive done it tons of times. but if you want the paint to bake like it should you need it to be like 95* in there.

Jake

[SappySE107]

How long would it have to be that hot?

[GPXSS]

I would suggest finding a local bodyshop and asking if you can either

A.) get a job there
B.) work there w/o pay but they show you the ins and outs of painting.

Not only will you get the experience first-hand that you need, but its also possible that they will let you use one of their booths and equipment for free.. you probably just have to pay for the paint.

Id def say get a gravity feed gun, siphon feed guns must be kept 1/4 full and are messy to clean. Ive had a bit of practice coating with ceramic paint and its not bad at all.

[grandprixgtp_91]

it would need to be that hot for an hour or 2 , thats why it would be best to paint on a nice hot summer day, the less humitity the better too, it helps dry the paint faster. and i would definatly go with a gravity fed HVLP gun too they do a way better job than alot of other crap. like i said though just practice a bit and it will look alright, and keep the dust down in your shop!

Jake

[PlatinumZ34]

Just out of curiousity... for a proffesional to paint your vehicle, how long should it take. Paint dry and everything...

[grandprixgtp_91]

well the thing is most paint shops wont paint your car unles they prep it and use there paint and everything, so it could take about a week. but lets say when they are painting it, and there are no runs , no dry spots, no imperfections, it would take approx 4 - 5 hours including dry time, thats primer, 3- coats of base and clear. for a good job around here that looks good and lasts costs $3000 - $4000. but i only charge up to $2000 depending how people want it done and thats including supplies.

Jake