Welding issues

[bszopi]

Ok, for all you experienced welders out there, I have a couple questions...

I'm using a stick welder, and I know most people around here use MIGs, so I'm not sure if the issues I'm having are problems with MIG as well. Anyway, I'm working on a project where I have to fill some holes solid (holes are usually 1/4" or 3/8"). The metal is probably 16ga. My problem is burn-thru. Once I get the arc struck, I end up enlarging the hole even before I start to fill it. Once I do get it filled, I go to grind it down and find some voids/holes in the weld. So then I weld those up. Grind down again and find new holes/voids. I thought that I might have the current up too high, so I turned it down and I'm still having the same problems.

Anyone have any suggestions to what I can do?

[firechiken]

You should use 6011 rods to fill the holes. They make them as small as 1/16. The only thing is with them is they are not used in the same way. They should be "whipped" instead of just running a straight bead. You start your arc, and when your puddle builds, whip it away in the direction your running your bead, but keep the arc lit. Then go back. They are made to burn out all the slag and any other junk on the metal, which is were your holes are coming from when you grind. Just keep whipping until your hole is gone, grind it just enough to get rid of the slag, and cap the weld with your regular rod (701

[RednBlack]

You should use 6011 rods to fill the holes. They make them as small as 1/16. The only thing is with them is they are not used in the same way. They should be "whipped" instead of just running a straight bead. You start your arc, and when your puddle builds, whip it away in the direction your running your bead, but keep the arc lit. Then go back. They are made to burn out all the slag and any other junk on the metal, which is were your holes are coming from when you grind. Just keep whipping until your hole is gone, grind it just enough to get rid of the slag, and cap the weld with your regular rod (701

Very good for an experienced welder. I would suggest going to an oxy/acet setup. A lot easier for thin material. Especially for teaching over the net. Good practice for maybe Tig welding someday. And you can use almost any filler rod made of mild steel. i.e baling wire, coat hangers...Plus you can rent one for a lot less money.

[bszopi]

I'm using 6013 rods currently. I turned down the current alittle more (down around 40A now) and it seems to work somewhat better. I haven't ground down the latest welds yet, and I may not even worry about it. The welds aren't going to be seen at all, so cosmetics isn't an issue. But having the holes filled it a must. Maybe I'll look into some 6011 rods...

[firechiken]

The 6013 rods won't burn out the slag, so when you grind your weld, you will have a hole. If you do the oxy/ace setup, make sure you get all the slag off before you weld. If you get the 6011 rods, turn the heat up a little bit, maybe around 45A, and be prepared for the rod to stick. It is a good idea to try them on a piece of scrap first to get the hang of them. OR you can snip off a little chunk of a rod and stick it in the hole and weld that in. It won't look that good, but you said that didn't matter.

[Anonymous]

I burned through a lot when i did my headers. This is how I fixed them. I would just put the end of the weld on one edge of the hole, and just tap it for a second or two, like I was tacking something together. By doing this is gets enough to keep the weld stuck on there, but not enough heat to burn through. Then just keep doing this around the hole, tap and let off, tap and let off. After it is full or most the way full, go around it once more, not tapping but welding as usual to cover any spots you missed.

[bud36light]

AC or DC? If using AC try a thin AC7018. The AC designation makes a huge difference. Just tack around the hole keeping the metal hot in an inward spiral .

[bszopi]

Its a VERY CHEAP AC. I got the project I was working on done, but I will definately take any and all other suggestions for stick welding. I have never been sure what rods to use for what. I just bought a couple different kinds and went at it. I have done a few small projects (always used the 6013 rods... 1/8") and have never had pretty welds. I'll try some of the suggestions, as I have another thing I need to work on in the next couple of days. So keep the help coming!

[RednBlack]

If I can find it, I have a chart. Shows metal and rod and heat compatibility. Haven't used it for a couple of years because 95% of my work is TIG. I will look and if I find it, I will post it for everyone. But think of it this way also, you have found out that an arc welder can be used for a cutting torch. It's like a cheap plasma cutter.

[GPXSS]

kinda makes me want to take the stick class in the fall when i take TIG.

MIG cutting is kinda cool but leaves alot of jaggies and globs of metal on the cut edge.

[RednBlack]

Just curious. What was the project?

[bszopi]

This is one I did for my car awhile back, and a buddy wanted a couple for his car. Its a metal light fixture (for PAR56 bulbs). Makes perfect 1/3 cu. ft. enclosures for 8" subs. The fixtures have mounting holes and such, but since its being used as a speaker enclosure, it needs to be sealed up pretty good. Obviously, it would be something that would be hidden (although you could do something fairly unique with the balls showing), hence the reason I wasn't concerned too much about the look of the welds.

[RednBlack]

That's pretty cool.

[bud36light]

Hey thats a cool idea! Go pick you up a couple of 7018AC rods. These are the easiest to use with a buzz box. You will like them.

[pocket-rocket]

I would suggest going to an oxy/acet setup. A lot easier for thin material. Especially for teaching over the net. Good practice for maybe Tig welding someday. And you can use almost any filler rod made of mild steel. i.e baling wire, coat hangers...Plus you can rent one for a lot less money.

I got a cheap Harris clone on ebay for about $65 after shipping. I spent about $200 on gas (got the smaller, 3ft' tall bottles, but they will deduct the price of them when I am ready to step up to the large, leasable bottles). $2.73 a pound for filler rods, and $20 for the "Welders Handbook" (which I have found very usefull), and I am almost ready to go at a set of headers for my car. It won't be as fast as MIG, but should do just fine. I also got some scrap exhaust pipe from a local muffler shop to start practicing on.