350 intake/carb suggestions

[nixtux]

That's about what I was hoping it was. Not that it's a good thing, but it's by no means the worst it could be. Just figure out why the carb is being a brat, then change oil, maybe plugs (I'd assume they can be cleaned up,) and then move on to the next stage. The plugs were changed when the oil was, so they are, basically, brand new AC Delco plugs.

I'm not 100% sure what route to take. I'd assume, get the carb rebuilt or a reman? See if it goes away. If it does, move on to the distributer, exhaust manifolds, exhaust leaks, ect.

I'm guessing the sputtering is "raw fuel" since it's not consistent. When the intake was going out, it was white puffy smoke, and it's not white puffy smoke nor can I see the sputter all the time. It's not not lossing coolant. I think the intake probably is okay for now.

thanks

It's probably misfiring because you have badly wet fouled a plug or two. Even the world's best ignition system and plugs cannot overcome wet fouling due to a fuel control issue. Case in point. My buddy's (everybody's got a buddy!) pro street Camaro has a nicely built small block with a beast of a Holley on it. BTE prepared and tuned locally at XXX in Pensacola. Back a while back, we chewed through a couple of power valves. He's got an MSD6AL with a Blaster coil and we still fouled up the plugs. Mind you, his ignition system definitely packs a wallop, I speak from some oh so painful experience. Still, it was no match for improperly atomized raw fuel. You gotta get your carb' squared away first or everything else is wasted money.

http://www.youtube.com/watch#!v=yALmUynDm2k

[nixtux]

Started pulling plugs and checking the spark. None! Won't even start now. No spark at all. Plugs look good though. They don't look wet or smell like gas. they look about normal as far as I can tell. I was going to take a picture but my camera sucks. I can't take pictures of small objects and get it to focus.

[nixtux]

Started up today. Ran really good for about 5 minutes then started sputtering. I noticed a small leak in the intake (it's clear as day.) I pulled my friends 99' Silverado with it. No problem. It was only about 10-12feet but it was still awesome. I figure, redo the intake, HEI distributor, reman quadrajet, new plugs/wires and be done. I pulled all the plugs and they are clean. I'm thinking the gas smell was it missing a little more than flooding out. I figured it was gas, but it clearly steam from burning coolant on the intake.

[Axe_1]

Sounds like a few things going on at once. It also sounds like you are on a budget so here's how you can replace that Distrubetor for almost nothing. If it's only a mild 350, stock compression with a power cam I have always had good luck with a used stock HEI distributor. I have changed over several GM cars and trucks to HEI and never had a problem with them. BUT, to do it right you need to change out some wires. The old points ignition has a 20 guage wire running from the fuse block on the firewall over to the external coil. It should also have another 20 guage wire coming from the same connector and going down to the starter. That second wire is just to bump up the ignition voltage to a straight 12 volts when the starter is engaged for an easier start.

You will need to remove both of those, the external coil, and the 20 gauge wire going from the coil to the distributer, and replace it with just one 12 gauge wire going straight from the fuse block on the firewall to the hot side of the HEI distributer. You can use a standard 1/4" Female Blade connector to clip it to the distributor so you don't even need to worry about having the correct connector.

The best way is to actually pull the outer side of the fuse block off of the firewall, carefully remove the wire from it with a small screw driver, and reuse the little clip from the end of the wire on the new wire. You will be going from two 20 guage wires to one 12 gauge wire so even though it's tight it will crimp back on and work like new.

I haven't done this for a while, but if I remember right there is only one bolt holding that fuse block together. I would start by disconnecting the battery, then finding that fuse block on the firewall, near the brake booster (assuming it has power brakes). Remove the center bolt and carefully wiggle it apart. You should be able to see how the wires are crimped onto little copper clips. Using a very small screw driver wiggle the copper clip with the ignition wires attached and pull it free. Spread the crimped wings and attach the new wire. Slide the clip back into the fuse block and make sure it's secure like it was before. You may need to open the end a tiny bit to make sure it holds. Fit the block back together and install the one bolt. DONE!

It sounds a LOT more difficult than it is, but don't be afraid to ask any questions you might have.

Axe

[Axe_1]

Sorry, double post! DOH!

Axe

[nixtux]

Sorry, double post! DOH!

Axe

Thanks for the HEI write-up. It is a fairly mild build. At best 300HP/400ft/lbs. When it was running good, it was pretty freaking awesome. I have a guy who said he could hook up a old HEI for a 350. I just need to get a ride to get it. Sounds fairly easy to install.

Here's a real odd one. My plugs aren't wet fouled, but there is gas in the oil. I checked the oil and it's about 1/4-1/2in over the full line. The oil was changed around 300-400 miles ago and I put 5qts in (and it's suprisingly accurate on the dipstick.) There was a suggestion regarding the fuel pump might be leaking into the crank case. The Fuel pump was new in 2002 (that was about 15,000 miles ago.) I should be able to get a new gasket and change it. Hopefully anyway. Any suggestion before the undertaking is always welcomed.

The intake, blasted thing. The bolts came loose. Going to get new intake bolts and some lock-tite and redo it (hopefully Monday.) I figure do the fuel pump gasket and HEI distributor at the same time. The last couple weeks have been pretty busy. My friends truck broke so helped him get that fixed (it set me back about 350 or so,) and in return he gave me a ride to the doctor 2hrs away. I won't even start on what I've spent on the car lately. In any event, I have over $10,000 into it now and I've only gotten 15 miles out of it. Sure would be nice if vehicles would just work for me but it's pretty much impossible.

[86FieroSEv6]

When it comes time to go after that fuel pump. Take a moment to note the two bolt holes on the front of the block to the right of the timing cover near the bottom. The upper of the two holes goes all the way to the fuel pump push rod. If you take out the short bolt that is there to prevent oil leakage you can use a longer threaded bolt to screw in, lightly pinching the push rod so it doesn't drop down and make you invent a new language while you try to use a butter knife to hold the rod up while you wrangle the fuel pump lever in under it. Feel me, dawg? Also, when you take out the pump, if you see fuel in the lever section of the housing that was attached to the block, then the diaphragm probably rotted away or became brittle from fuel drying and then cracked when it was started up again. No, I did not make up the butter knife thing.

[nixtux]

When it comes time to go after that fuel pump. Take a moment to note the two bolt holes on the front of the block to the right of the timing cover near the bottom. The upper of the two holes goes all the way to the fuel pump push rod. If you take out the short bolt that is there to prevent oil leakage you can use a longer threaded bolt to screw in, lightly pinching the push rod so it doesn't drop down and make you invent a new language while you try to use a butter knife to hold the rod up while you wrangle the fuel pump lever in under it. Feel me, dawg? Also, when you take out the pump, if you see fuel in the lever section of the housing that was attached to the block, then the diaphragm probably rotted away or became brittle from fuel drying and then cracked when it was started up again. No, I did not make up the butter knife thing.

I haven't started pulling it yet. Is the little bolt to the side of the engine block? I was pulling the fan so I could get a better look, but it was getting dark and it's going to rain soon.

As far as the longer bolt, do you know what bolt I'll need to replace it with? I don't have a inventory of bolts, nor do I have the means to quickly and easily go to a parts store. The metal line to the carb is "bent" and clearly obstructed. Could that cause a issue? Should I replace it with a "webbed" line (I think that's what it is.)

And what do you mean by diaphragm? Is that something in/on the fuel pump? If that's bad do I need a new fuel pump? Or is that part of the gasket.

Sorry about all the questions but I'm eager to get the truck running so I at least have a vehicle for my town errands, appointments, and occasional cruise.

[Axe_1]

Yes the fuel pump diaphragm is part of the fuel pump. If it's leaking fuel into the oil the fuel pump will need to be replaced. I would consider replacing the fuel pump long before the distributor. It's a much easier job and could make a huge difference.

That was also a good tip with using the longer bolt to hold the fuel pump rod in place.

When you remove the fuel pump it will have a long lever on the back. That lever rests against a rod that is about 5/8" diameter and 4" long (estimate). The rod slides up in a hole in the block and the opposite end rides on the fuel pump lobe of the cam. When reinstalling the fuel pump you will need a method to hold the rod up against the cam while you line up the fuel pump. What makes this difficult is the lever on the rear of the fuel pump needs to be partially compressed by pushing the fuel pump against the mounting plate enough to get the bolts started straight. It's a little too much trouble to hold the rod up, push the fuel pump against the plate, and start the bolts so you need to eliminate one of the factors. Using the bolt to hold the rod in place will do hat for you.

###From memory so check the bolt before you tear everything apart: On the lower front part of the block there is a 3/8" bolt that will only be about 1"-1.5" long when you remove it. It's pretty easy to see that it will line up perpendicular to the fuel pump rod. You can replace it with a 3/8" bolt that is about 3"-4" long and it doesn't matter if you do that before or after you remove the fuel pump. If you have already removed the fuel pump, you can push the rod back up against the cam with your finger and then tighten the long bolt just enough to hold the rod from sliding back out. After installing the fuel pump be sure to remove the long bolt and reinstall the short one. I forgot to put one in the hole once and kept leaking oil but didn't know where. It was easy to find after revving the engine to about 6,000 RPM's, lol. Oil shot straight out like it was a cannon.

Another thing that can be done is to pull the rod all the way out and coat it in a very thick motor oil, or even Vaseline like the old schooler's did, but sometimes that stuff stays in your engine and later turns to sludge. Just remember that if you do choose to just lubricate it enough to create suction and not use the bolt method, you will also need the gasket for the fuel pump plate that goes against the block. The rod will not slide all the way out without removing that plate.

Axe

[nixtux]

Yes the fuel pump diaphragm is part of the fuel pump. If it's leaking fuel into the oil the fuel pump will need to be replaced.

That was also a good tip with using the longer bolt to hold the fuel pump rod in place.

###From memory so check the bolt before you tear everything apart: On the lower front part of the block there is a 3/8" bolt that will only be about 1"-1.5" long when you remove it. It's pretty easy to see that it will line up perpendicular to the fuel pump rod. You can replace it with a 3/8" bolt that is about 3"-4" long and it doesn't matter if you do that before or after you remove the fuel pump. If you have already removed the fuel pump, you can push the rod back up against the cam with your finger and then tighten the long bolt just enough to hold the rod from sliding back out. Another thing that can be done is to pull the rod all the way out and coat it in a very thick motor oil, or even Vaseline like the old schooler's did, but sometimes that stuff stays in your engine and later turns to sludge. Also, if you do chose to just lubricate it enough to create suction and not use the bolt method, you will also need the gasket for the fuel pump plate that goes against the block. The rod will not slide all the way out without removing that plate.

Axe

If the fuel pump gasket is a metal plate why would it fail?

On that note, about 200-300 miles ago I did a compression test and it was pretty good. Apparently, gas in the oil can be a lot of things. I'm hoping it's just something with the fuel pump. My parents bought the truck in 2005. It had 300 miles on a performance build. I've concluded they used a lot of parts from the 454 it came with. It was a farm truck in North Dakota. It hasn't broke 100,000 miles yet.

I don't want to cheap the fix for the old lady. I want to try to do the work myself and with a friend... If I can. She was a mean girl in 2007-08-09. She still is. But the gas in the oil concerns me. I don't even drive her because I don't want to be completely fucked as far as vehicles go. I think it has to be below the rings because the plugs aren't fouled. They are dry and look great other than rust from sitting most the winter.

[Axe_1]

What you have is the Engine Block with a large opening, a gasket, a metal plate with a small opening, the fuel pump gasket, then the fuel pump. Also, sounds like what failed is the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump, not the gasket. If the gasket failed you will just leak oil to the outside of the engine.

Axe

[nixtux]

What you have is the Engine Block with a large opening, a gasket, a metal plate with a small opening, the fuel pump gasket, then the fuel pump. Also, sounds like what failed is the rubber diaphragm inside the fuel pump, not the gasket. If the gasket failed you will just leak oil to the outside of the engine.

Axe

Since the oil is fouled, would it be easier if I just remove the engine oil before pulling the pump? I'm going to have to replace the oil anyway. Might as well drain it now verse this coming weekend.

There are two lines going to the pump (I assume from the tank,) it looks like they have clips I could easily take off and pinch the lines. Then the line to carb should be easy enough to clear. it looks like there are two bolts holding the pump to the block, plus a couple smaller bolts (I'm guessing these are the bolts per the descriptions provided.) It was getting dark lastnight when I was looking at it.

Tentatively, I'm thinking I'll pull the pump, intake, distributer and on Saturday (when I'll some money to buy parts,) I'll put it back together. I'll just cover everything up with towels and spend the week cleaning up the parts.

As far as the fuel in the oil, that's bad for an engine. Is there anything I should do once I get it back together to make sure no damage was done? At best there was 60 miles put on it after it started leaking fuel in the oil. That I know of anyway. I did have a potential buyer and I don't know how many miles he put on it and if this was a issue.

Thanks

[86FieroSEv6]

The two smaller bolts you noted are holding the cover plate to the block. The bolt holes we are referring to are on the front of the block, to the passenger side of the timing cover near the bottom and are aligned vertically.

[nixtux]

The two smaller bolts you noted are holding the cover plate to the block. The bolt holes we are referring to are on the front of the block, to the passenger side of the timing cover near the bottom and are aligned vertically.

Changed the pump. Started it up, seems good. Pulled the intake. A couple intake ports are pretty dirty. I dont' think it was like that the last time I pulled it.

That's my achievment for the day. I walked 2 miles to the parts store, picked up a new fuel pump, intake bolts, oil filter and locktite. I figured put in fresh oil and run it for a bit before doing the intake. I'll change it again because a little coolant spit from the intake. Re-time it and do a valve adjustment and hopefully old trusty will fly again.

EDIT: I have to get a new fuel line tomorrow because I broke it on accident.

[nixtux]

Another weird thing. There was this wretched sound, kind of like a loose belt but not quite as high pitch. That went away after the pump and oil was changed. Not exactly thrilled about that one. But at least it went away because if that was a sound from the gas, I know when it started and can determine the miles at just over 50.