350 intake/carb suggestions

[Axe_1]

Very cool! That sounds like a nice healthy street cam, and that 3.73 12 bolt should do fine also. Trucks normally run a tighter gear than cars because they came with taller tires, but that's a great gear ratio for the street/Hwy mixed driving.

Axe

[nixtux]

Very cool! That sounds like a nice healthy street cam, and that 3.73 12 bolt should do fine also. Trucks normally run a tighter gear than cars because they came with taller tires, but that's a great gear ratio for the street/Hwy mixed driving.

Axe

It's a nice little truck. It has the 3/4 ton suspension so even if the box is loaded and pulling a trailer it doesn't slump at all.

The 3rd gear is really long. It shifts from 2-3rd at around 55MPH. I've taken the truck to about 105MPH, maybe a little --- only once. Just because I wanted to know if it could get up there. It has very little power from 55 to 80 but after that I think it pulls faster than my 3.5l intrepid did.

The differential fluid has never been changed that I know of. At most it has 15-16k on it, but the last time it would've been changed was in 2005. Should I have that changed every year? It's not a 4x4. But I think it's proper to change it every year... But I'm not sure.

The last question, you don't think that would be a good motor for a small turbo? I don't really care for the extra power, it's just the knowledge learned from doing it that I want. It has more than enough power for me anyway.

I think I found the vacuum leak, the hose from the carb plate to the valve cover was half out. I put it back in and it seems to be a little better now. We'll see.

[Axe_1]

I wouldn't worry about the rear end gear oil unless you just want the experience. Most people never change it during the life of the vehicle. If it gets changed every 50,000 miles it should be great.

If it pulls slow from 55-80 then pulls hard it could probably use a better gear, but it's not something that has to be done immediately. Going to something more like a 4.10 would probably make it scream though. Your engine is built to run in a higher RPM range than stock, so you eventually want to get it into that range. You may lose some MPG's on the hwy but you could gain them back in the city if it's geared right.

Again, without knowing what pistons are in it I would pass on the turbo. It's really up to you but it may drastically shorten the life of the engine. I'm just another hot rodder like you, but that's my advise.

Axe

[Axe_1]

Here's my little truck. It's a stock carb'd 350 with a Turbo 400 trans. Heavy 3/4 Ton so I've had it loaded down and it doesn't squat either.
I haven't driven it in about 5 years but it's next on my list. I really wanted to get the wife's Grand Am GT together for her first but that's turning out to be a hassle.

[nixtux]

Here's my little truck. It's a stock carb'd 350 with a Turbo 400 trans. Heavy 3/4 Ton so I've had it loaded down and it doesn't squat either.
I haven't driven it in about 5 years but it's next on my list. I really wanted to get the wife's Grand Am GT together for her first but that's turning out to be a hassle.

I like that style Chevy. Mines a old ugly orange box with tons of rust on the drivers side. But I don't care it runs... I'll have to figure out what pistons are in there. Worse case, I'll buy a beater down the road when I have the car running and try to build a nice little turbo 350. I just want the experience and it's nice learning this stuff. That way you aren't dependent on other people and getting ripped off at shops. My nexts project will be redoing the top of the 3500 in my Alero. But I do need to find someone who will redo the valves. I have a shop in mind. A classmates dad is known to "do" crazier projects so hopefully. Then my step-dad and I are going to redo the top-end, less the valves. I've heard there is lots involved with that and I'm a bit timid about trying it. I also figure the last time the car ran, it ran for 2hrs and 17 miles so better safe than sorry.

That spring was for the adjustment on the passenger side of the carb. The vacuum leak was from the master cylnder. Cut the hose, put it back on and the brakes are perfect. I guess the throttle cable is loose so I'll attempt to fix that tomorrow. That way it's actually getting full trottle. Trying to find a sweet spot timing wise. Just moving the distributer slowly and seeing where it improves or not. The last advance killed it's low end power. Backing it off a little and seeing if the low-mid comes back. I like it on the low end and mid range verse high.

I had the "dwell" checked and it's at around 28-30 so apparently that's good. Had some minor adjustments made to the carb to try and improve it's effciency. But I have a bachelors party to get to.

Attached is the "Elder" as I like to call the truck. Can't see the sides, but the passenger side is decent but the drivers is horrible. But one thing at a time.

[nixtux]

Kind of weird. Went to start it and won't start. It'll crank, stop, crank, start, stop. It has a kind of whine to it so figured better not try and start it until I figure out what the whine is. Just in case there is a valve clearance issue or something. The battery should be fine. Could a starter cause it to start, stop, start, stop?

It was running fine last night. Not sure what changed overnight.

I got to thinking, it had a slight "squeak" lastnight. I figured it just needed some belt dressing but I didn't have any. If I wasn't still hungover the night before I may have paid more attention to it. I'm thinking maybe it was the alternator and it is just a weak battery. But I don't know if that would explain why it will start and not stay running. I just worry it could be a valve issue (probably because of the valve issue on the car.) Last thing i need is for the stupid thing to die. Plus I have to move this week so I have to carefully budget things.

[nixtux]

Got it to start for about 10 seconds and it was puffing some nasty looking smoke. Turned it off, loosened the distributer hold-down bolt and retarded it. It went away. What's weird, I can't get the idle above 620RPM and the screw is as tight as it can go. Maybe the carb is getting more and more retarded... I don't know, it runs and drives good now. Hopefully it stays that way until I can get a new carb.