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How to remove wiper arms

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  • How to remove wiper arms

    1997 3.1 Monte wiper arms are a mess with rust. I see the nut removal part holding the arm on, but how do you remove the arm. It won't come off with a tug....Tom

  • #2
    I broke a screwdriver trying to get the arms off of my Grand AM last summer. Ill be looking forward to any suggestions too!

    (I did take the nuts off first)

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    • #3
      there's special 2-jaw pullers specifically for wiper arms liek those.... the splined ones with nuts on them right? they're a press fit so you'll need to puller.

      Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
      Cammed 3500 --> ???
      1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies

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      • #4
        Had a hunch some kind of widget was needed here....Thanks RedBird.....Maybe Autozone tool rentals has such a tool.....Tom

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        • #6
          I just give the arm a tug while tapping on the shaft, I've never had one pressed on that hard it wouldn't come off.

          Got Lope?
          3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
          Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
          Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
          12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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          • #7
            Sounds good to me...Think I'll have my partner tap on the shaft while i tug on the arm...Tom

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            • #8
              I'm not sure if yours need a pin to hold them off the windshield or not, but Mine when you pull them away, they do not stay off the glass, you need to put a thin finish nail through two holes in the arm to prop it up and hold the tension of the spring. Then I just give the shaft a few taps with a hammer while giving a little tug and they typically pop off.

              Got Lope?
              3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
              Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
              Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
              12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

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              • #9
                Yea, mine have a pinhole....I'll gett'er dun.....Tom

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                • #10
                  In the old days, when batteries had post on the top, they made little pullers for the cables. They also work great for wiper arms and since many batteries still have terminals on top, they still make the tools.

                  Eight dollars on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batte...motiveQ5fTools

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                  • #11
                    I have'nt attempted to remove these arms yet but this tool might work well also....Thanks.........Tom


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                    • #12
                      Originally posted by fastback4 View Post
                      I haven't attempted to remove these arms yet but this tool might work well also....Thanks.........Tom


                      [ATTACH]3624[/ATTACH]
                      I went through three different "mini-pullers" including this one, which I'll agree with Kerno and Fastback4 that it is a well-made one and well worth the money, to remove the wiper blades from my 4th Gen F-Bodies to replace the failed electronic controller circuit block in the wiper motors... But it just did not work. The problem I ran into was three-fold:

                      1. The small feet on the two prongs want to pull off and even with the added modification of the tool to try and get it to stay on... so much torque was required...that they STILL spread and slipped off... which leads to problem number...

                      2. When the device slips off... it actually explodes off with such force that you run the risk of cracking the windshield either while trying to develop enough power to get the wipers to budge or when (and/or if) the damned thing finally does "pop" loose... it does so very violently...

                      3. The design of the puller implies that you will have the room to maneuver the thing around freely over the thing being pulled... but the presence and angle of the windshield makes using this tool almost impossible. Now I am a very, very strong man ... in spite of my age ...but there is simply no way to get enough mechanical advantage to turn the T-Bar crank on the damned thing, what with the windshield in such close quarters and with the impossibility of being able to get through even an 1/8th turn without hitting something around or on the armature that gets in the way.

                      So in the end... I dug around on eBay until I could find and buy a one-off Kent-Moore Model # J-39637 Tool that is designed specifically for this job. Please see the attached " One Over The World" images to understand why this worked so well....and as ever...I put Moly-D High Pressure Grease on the threads and facing bolt's protruding centering knob to keep the tool from seizing while slowly tightening down...and Voila! --==Pop!==-- It comes right off ...No Sweat!

                      Unfortunately... This is a pricey little Gizmo that you can find at places like this... but don't forget to lurk on it if you can find it on eBay...with so many "Stealerships" closing... these tools find there way on short sales when the business(es) close... And besides that...add up the prices for all the pullers that did NOT work and you just might break even...

                      Attached Files
                      Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 04-04-2010, 06:24 PM.

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                      • #13
                        Excellent response to my question 60degrees. Nicely illustrated also. Your $80.00 Kent-Moore Model # J-39637 Tool ( highest price i saw it for) is out of the question for a one and done tool. A wiz wheel at $ 1.10 may be my next option...lol...Limited space to maneuver, risky windshield breakage are some real issues here. I believe i'll make a similar Kent-Moore Model # J-39637 Tool using a electrical conduit hanger..I'll post a picture of it after i know it works.......Tom

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                        • #14
                          Your idea is very creative... But just for the sake of the increased angle of attack on the threads of your suggested modified tool as compared with the factory Kent-Moore flavor which has a more gradual incline angle...... May I proffer that you replace the square headed bolt with one that has a substantial hex bolt head and that is at LEAST 8.8 in hardness, if not stronger ...and lather the Hell out of those threads with some Moly-D High Pressure Grease to give you an edge. In addition to costing you a lot less for something so indispensable...but so seldom used... it seems to offer enough of a "base" at the bottom that can be shaped into something that will put pressure on the lower part of the WW arm... evenly and NOT bind as the non-circumferential two-prong tool is prone to demonstrating. This is a very clever solution... if you can make it all fit and not grind off too much strength. Just remember to turn the screw... very slowly and look it all over while wearing eye protection to avoid any sudden mishaps. If this really works for you...Please follow up with your own "How-To Make Your Own Inexpensive Windshield Wiper Tool" with some part numbers and good construct photos and many members here will name their Grandchildren after you! Best of Luck with this ...
                          Last edited by 60dgrzbelow0; 03-28-2010, 06:57 PM.

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                          • #15
                            This would make a good "do it yourself wiper arm remover tool project" so i will do this for everyone who has helped me along the way. I will increase the bolt thread size to accomadate the new angle of the bolt. As shown the bolt is at a negative angle. Good idea to use a higher streaghth bolt here. I'd prefer a fine threaded bolt but a course thread is what the hanger uses and i'm not certain i can use a fine thread bolt after i increase the bolt's size. Perhaps i can. Let me know what you think. I will buy some Moly-D High Pressure Grease. Good idea again. We should all protect ourselves from injury when working on anything. Eye wear, latex gloves or working gloves, and paper masks when using thinners and paints. I have alot of older mechanic friends who's health has been hindered due to eye, nose, and lung problems because they did'nt take the time to protect themselves from hazards like falling rust in the eyes, solvents, and paints. I'll start on this project monday and post pics and progress along with materials needed and where to get them. Stay tuned all........Tom

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