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  • Spent a day welding exhaust - Pics

    Several hours today, not bad. From ripping it out to measuring, cutting, welding, leak tests and double checks.

    Used a level and carpenters angle device.

    Here is the entire exhaust under chassis w/o down pipe.


    Here is the catalytic converter. I still need to weld in the O2 Sensor for emissions. Looks like it will pass visual inspections.


    Here is the internals to the catalytic converter. The turbo will love this. It isn't just gutted, it's a clean pipe so there is no turbulant edges.


    Here is a close up of my welding. Not bad for a gasless flux mig welder.


    Tomorrow I will jack up the car, mark off my supports and weld them onto the exhaust pipe. I have raw 1" x 3/4" x 1/8" steel bar for the supports. Will be using rubber between the mounts and the chassis for no rattling.

    Will also finish the downpipe if I have the time.

    I hope you all enjoy the pics of my progress so far.

  • #2
    nice work!


    make sure to wire brush those welds, use a scouring pad then paint thinner to degrease the whole system and give it a few coats of high temp exhaust paint. It'll last much longer that way.
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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    • #3
      Originally posted by Superdave View Post
      nice work!


      make sure to wire brush those welds, use a scouring pad then paint thinner to degrease the whole system and give it a few coats of high temp exhaust paint. It'll last much longer that way.
      You're right, I should do that to prevent rusting.

      Notice I didn't care about dual exhaust. Seems trivial as it doesn't aid in flow really. If I had stock mufflers then I would but flowmaster 40's flow very well as is.

      It will be loud, but not obscenely loud. The turbo will kill a lot of noise off the bat. The new resonator and flow masters will take care of the rest.

      I am going to use a tip that points downward so the ground absorbs some of the higher frequencies and reflects the lower frequencies. The 2.5" exhaust will definately aid in exhaust sound quality.

      Comment


      • #4
        please tell me that clamp for the "cat" is just temporary... you did the rest right, i don't see why you would want to cheap out there and potentially leak...
        1995 Monte Carlo LS 3100, 4T60E...for now, future plans include driving it until the wheels fall off!
        Latest nAst1 files here!
        Need a wiring diagram for any GM car or truck from 82-06(and 07-08 cars)? PM me!

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        • #5
          Originally posted by robertisaar View Post
          please tell me that clamp for the "cat" is just temporary... you did the rest right, i don't see why you would want to cheap out there and potentially leak...
          If mild steel welding wire will bond correctly to stainless steel, then yes it is temporary. But as far as I know, I can't weld aluminized steel to stainless steel.

          And if the welding option is out, won't a carefully used red rtv seal up with a clamp?

          Would you happen to know if stainless can weld to aluminized (basically mild steel with alum coating I can sand off)?

          EDIT: I found out I can grind the edges well on the stainless and it should work out well. So, tomorrow I have some more welding to do.
          Last edited by Schmieder; 02-28-2010, 11:52 PM.

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          • #6
            I've done it several times welding stainless tips on, you shouldn't have any problems.
            Past Builds;
            1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
            1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
            Current Project;
            1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

            Comment


            • #7
              I was going to say as soon as I saw the outside of that "cat" that it was the siliconeintakes.com "fake cat". I will probably put one of those on my orange car. Since it won't be a DD and I might gain 2hp why not? LOL it's cheaper than another $90 cat and I can put my metallic core cat on my DD. Plus the orange car needs all the sound it can get, since it's a street rod... The orange car right now has 2.5" exhaust no cat and some muffler I don't know what kind but sounds damn good, better than my 3100!! My blue car has 2.5" mandrel stainless exhaust so they are going to get swapped between the two cars sometime.

              I've had 201 stainless (your fake cat) welded with 304 rod, and 304 rod with unknown stainless sheet metal welded to normal steel. All done with TIG but shouldn't be an issue. Might want to put a flange or some way of disconnecting the exhaust from the DP.

              How big is your DP? 3" or 2.5" ?

              The exhaust should be pretty quiet with turbo, resonator, and flow master. The resonator should kill some of the high frequencies, the flow master some of the deeper ones, and turbo just make it quieter all around. You should be able to get on it without attracting much attention.

              My orange car will be loud as hell, cammed, high compression, then headers with no cat and a straight through muffler... hehe.
              Last edited by IsaacHayes; 03-01-2010, 01:10 PM.
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                Might want to put a flange or some way of disconnecting the exhaust from the DP.

                How big is your DP? 3" or 2.5" ?

                My orange car will be loud as hell, cammed, high compression, then headers with no cat and a straight through muffler... hehe.

                I have a 3-bolt flared joint just behind the cat and one in the engine bay. I replicated the OEM exhaust flanges so as you said, can seperate the dp from the exhaust.

                DP is 2.5". The entire exhaust is 2.5" tip to tip. Except for the cross-over, they are 1.75" as stock are to bolt up to the stock mani's w/o issue.

                I don't think I need a larger chamber as the turbo will put out a steady swirling exhaust versus the stock pulses w/o turbo.


                Your orange car, hehe, loud is fun. Sounds like a bad ass exhaust system
                But I have a family, kids, and live in a nice neighborhood. The neighbors would hate me leaving the house at 7am with a loud exhaust.

                Reminds me when I was 15-16 yrs old and I had a paper route. I also had a red Honda moped with no exhaust, lmfao. It was exhausting right out of the exhaust port. Well, the exhaust came off days before christmas morning. My bike happened to have a flat that morning so I had to use the moped. Here I am at 4am christmas morning zipping through the neighborhood loud as all hell. My Mom said she could hear me blocks away. When I had to collect days later, nearly everyone complained about that. Too funny.

                It was that same moped I had duck taped starting fluid canister to the body and directed the spray needle into my air intake. A press of the foot on the nozzle with a block of wood and it made a ghetto NOS. That moped would really wind up good. It actually worked quite well.

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                • #9
                  Yeah the orange care isn't a DD so no worries there. It's a toy, so it will be taken out on sunny weekends for some excitement. Race car thrills! Loud and nasty!

                  Did the exhaust valve ever burn up on that moped with no manifold on there? Not sure how 2-cycle "valves" take to that kind of thing but 4 stroke doesn't like that.
                  sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                  1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                  16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                  Original L82 Longblock
                  with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                  Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                    Yeah the orange care isn't a DD so no worries there. It's a toy, so it will be taken out on sunny weekends for some excitement. Race car thrills! Loud and nasty!

                    Did the exhaust valve ever burn up on that moped with no manifold on there? Not sure how 2-cycle "valves" take to that kind of thing but 4 stroke doesn't like that.
                    It didn't have valves, just openings. The intake was up higher in the chamber then the exhaust was. Strange how it worked but it worked. Had to ad special oil to the gas. And I had put new cylinder rings on so it did last a while punishing it in such a way. It was a PITA, the rings, but for one cylinder on a rinky dink moped engine wasn't too bad. Definately not like a v6.

                    Orange car, I hear that. Some day down the road I plan to build my ultimate pride and joy. Something I want to build from the ground up. A long detailed project. Fitting my own bearings, forged pistons, stronger crank, double roller timing chain, stronger rods, nice cam, ect...

                    Oh and 30-40 psi boost

                    And that car will be loud. Like you said, a sunny day race car.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Yeah 2 stroke doesn't really use valves the piston is sort of the valve. Wondered if it could be damaged running manifold less though.
                      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                      Original L82 Longblock
                      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                        Yeah 2 stroke doesn't really use valves the piston is sort of the valve. Wondered if it could be damaged running manifold less though.
                        Damaged, not sure. It was stolen over night and I found out a bunch of kids had brought a ramp to a lake and one of them jumped the bike into the lake.

                        But at 16 almost 17, it was becoming lame to ride a beat up ghettofied moped, no matter how much starting fluid I could spray into it, lol. So I said F**K it.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Most 2 strokes also use the muffler as an expansion chamber to make a supercharger like effect by using reversion.





                          I've still got mine from high school. 94 Yamaha Jog.
                          Last edited by pocket-rocket; 03-04-2010, 01:39 AM.
                          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
                          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
                          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
                          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
                          Originally posted by Jay Leno
                          Tires are cheap clutches...

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                          • #14
                            You's guys gotta get some gas sheilding welders, and some 220v ones They have much better lines than those 110 flux core jobbers.






                            I would have to say this is my worst exhaust work on the race car.

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                            • #15
                              I have a 220 Gas welder and my welds still look like crap, But thats just cuz I can't weld worth crap lol.
                              As of April 2
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