Spent a day welding exhaust - Pics

[robertisaar]

<--- 110V arc welder... looks like hell, but they almost always end up being strong.

[Schmieder]

Besides looking ugly, a Flux Core Mig can weld very strong joints if you know what your doing.

When I was dialing in the settings I got a piece that was a 'good' weld. I welded 2 4' pipes together and set it up on blocks. I stood on the pipe and it held well.

Trick with mig, and I guess any weld, is to get the wire to blend nice with the product. In a way, they fuse together to become one. But at that heat, I had to puddle weld the 16 gauge pipe. But, if you puddle weld just right applying the next hit before the last one cools too much, it works out very well.

Some say Mig welds are hard to make air tight. They just need more practice.

If I wanted pretty welds, I could always grind em down.

And 220v is nice, but that is too much for 16 gauge pipe. It would burn through in a heart beat.

And, the closer the gun is held to the product being welded, the better the flux core can create a shield of its own.

But I'm sure you guys know this. I mainly wrote this up for people who need to know.

[Schmieder]

You's guys gotta get some gas sheilding welders, and some 220v ones They have much better lines than those 110 flux core jobbers.






I would have to say this is my worst exhaust work on the race car.

Yes, they ARE nice welds. If I had to weld more then exhaust, I would invest. But my engine bay exhaust is heat wrapped and ironically, the Mig splatter actually helped secure the heat wrap from shifting around when wrapping it up.

[Weatheralls Auto]

.............
And 220v is nice, but that is too much for 16 gauge pipe. It would burn through in a heart beat.........

I am no welder, but I know that is INCorrect,
that is why they have "dials" and "settings" lol

[Schmieder]

I am no welder, but I know that is INCorrect,
that is why they have "dials" and "settings" lol

You are correct, a 220v can weld 16 gauge. What I meant was it is too much $$$ for me to weld 16 ga. even 14 ga.

After all the expenses for the turbo build, I'de rather just get a $170 110v Mig welder from E-Bay which can weld up to 3/16". It did the job for less

All I need it for is 14ga and thin steel for body work. I do plan on making a custom scoop for the hood. I found some screening material for oven vents look really nice for a hood scoop.

Though, a 220 would be nice.

[3400-95-Modified]

Ok statement was corrected, but yes that 220 is needed because we weld 1/8 and thicker metal for the car, including roll cage and such.

But I still would have sprung for the extra money to just get a gas shielded 110 over the flux core, if you think the 220 is more power than you'll ever need.

[Schmieder]

Ok statement was corrected, but yes that 220 is needed because we weld 1/8 and thicker metal for the car, including roll cage and such.

But I still would have sprung for the extra money to just get a gas shielded 110 over the flux core, if you think the 220 is more power than you'll ever need.

I was able to weld 3/16" steel plate for the merging of cross-over to flange quite well with 110v. I did have all settings up as high as they could go but puddle welding proved sufficient.

Ehh, if I need a better welder, I'll spring for it down the road. But the cheaper welder now allowed for more turbo parts, like the $100 turbo blanket.

I would like a gas shielding though. It is much nicer indeed.

[pocket-rocket]

I've got one of those "Chicago Electric" "things". 110, 90 amp flux core. My biggest gripe is it's either 90 amp or 60 amp since it only has a switch for amperage vs a dial. I paid less than $90 brand new from the store (big sale + 20% off coupon) and mainly bought it to learn on so I didn't screw something pricey up. Later down the road I plan on getting a Hobard Handler 140.

[bszopi]

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/tig/diversion_165/

^ Seems like a nice one to me...

[pocket-rocket]

Yeah, I really want a nice Miller, but Hobart (owned by Miller) seems to be more in my price range for features I want. I still have yet to read a bad review on the Handler 140, so that's a good thing Good thing for me, when I finally get the $$$ for it, Tractor Supply is like 25 minutes from me.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/welding-metalworking/welders/mig-welding/mig-welders/hobart-handler-140-welder-3812040

[robertisaar]

http://www.tractorsupply.com/welding...welder-3812040

now that's not too bad... duty cycle at 90 amps sucks though... can't imagine at 140...

[pocket-rocket]

It's better than the piece I have now, but at least it works... :/

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=98871

[ForcedFirebird]

Ok statement was corrected, but yes that 220 is needed because we weld 1/8 and thicker metal for the car, including roll cage and such.

But I still would have sprung for the extra money to just get a gas shielded 110 over the flux core, if you think the 220 is more power than you'll ever need.

MIG on a roll cage is illegal in racing.

[pocket-rocket]

MIG on a roll cage is illegal in racing.

(sorry, I had to try the new smiley)

[Schmieder]

MIG on a roll cage is illegal in racing.

Interesting.

I saw Mythbusters about putting golf ball texture over a cars hood to improve aerodynamics.

From what they aired, it was illegal to make your car textured like a golf ball.

Is that true?

I did replicate the golf ball texture in my TB at just the right place where the air has to turn into the smallest section (the plate area) to reduce turbulant areas. I did a shop vac test with a foam ball adjusted with fishing weights in a tube. I didn't gain much but it did help a little. I can't give figures as I was only able to mark my progress lines. It pushed the foam ball up another inch or so. Hard to measure exactly cause the ball never stayed in one place, it bounced around but the bouncing was about an inch higher, roughly. So the texture DID do something worth while.

I'll dig around and see if I can find the pics from the experiment. It was a neat DIY flow test. Though, I wouldn't trust it for cylinder head porting.

For those who have seen the pics of my TB, I put A LOT of thought and work into it. More for fun instead of buying a 65mm which I polan to do with the 3400 Top Swap coming up.