Turbo Project - Last Minute Questions/Advise

[Schmieder]

As far as the O-Ring goes,,, you DON'T want the fitting to go in that far. NPT (IIRC: NPT = National Pipe Thread) threads are tapered threads and are designed to do all of the sealing. If you use washers it will stop the threads from sealing,, as the pressure will be on the washers and NOT the threads. If you get the fitting to thread in a bit more than the thickness of the oil pan you'll be fine. If you go deeper you just make the hole bigger and the fitting will go into the oil pan further. Some kind of sealer wouldn't hurt, as long as it doesn't block the fitting or get into the oil (teflon tape). As far as drilling the hole,, for a 1/2"X14 NPT my tap/drill chart calls for a 23/32 drill.
Hope this helps..

Thank you, that was very useful information.

A general oil resistant thread sealer it is.

I have an 11/16" drill bit to tap which is 1/32 smaller then what you recommended. The 1/2 NPT Tap will clear 11/16 in the very beginning. All it means is I will spend a decent amount of time tapping the hole. I know to make 1-2 turns, back it out, clean off the aluminum shavings, re-oil, insert and repeat.

All the while I will be carefully inserting the oil drain adapter every so often to see how far the thread taper is. Since I just learned NPT has a taper in the threads, I will need to check fitting a I tap.


Man, thanks again. That info was very useful.

[Schmieder]

ghetto + ghetto is still ghetto

granted, i've used bondo in places it was never designed to be used in, but i wouldn't trust it with something as important as oil...

Yeah....although.

1+1=2 it can also mean 1+1=11

lol

Bottom line is I will keep to popular method. The adapter + thread sealer.

Though, fiberglass fibers and JB Weld might prove to be a very powerful cold weld. Not going to use it in my application, but I do want to try it's strength compared to plain JB Weld.

[pocket-rocket]

I know to make 1-2 turns, back it out, clean off the aluminum shavings, re-oil, insert and repeat

I always thought it was 1/4-1/2 turns? I usually do 1/2-1 turn though >.>

[Weatheralls Auto]

Yup Ghetto X 11 is REALLY Ghetto lol.

Use the Pipe sealer and use the CORRECT size drill bit for the Tap!!

[Schmieder]

I always thought it was 1/4-1/2 turns? I usually do 1/2-1 turn though >.>

you may be right. It has been a LONG time since I tapped anything.

I would have started easy off anywyas and worked up to a gentle resistance before I back it off. But no more then 1 turn, now that I think about it, I think 1 turn was maximum, not optimal.

[Schmieder]

Yup Ghetto X 11 is REALLY Ghetto lol.

Use the Pipe sealer and use the CORRECT size drill bit for the Tap!!

I don't have a 23/32 bit. Are you saying an 11/16 (22/32) won't work? It is only 1/32 smaller which means only 1/64" per side of hole (radius edge)

[walterdude]

I think you'll be just fine drilling with a 11/32 bit... Chances are you'll be drilling it by hand,, chances are it'll cut oversize anyway. Seeing as it IS a tapered thread the pilot hole is less critical... If it cuts bigger than the lead-in on the tap you're OK. You could put a small chamfer on the hole to help start threads... Kerosene is an excellent cutting agent for aluminum...
Back the tap out??? HELL, I used to clamp em in a Bridgeport and tap under full power!! Set up a travel indicator, blast it in untill desired depth and hit reverse... Blind holes even!! A 1/2" NPT tap IS pretty big in diameter. BUT,, It sure doesn't hurt to back it out to break the chips,, specially if you are doing it by hand... The main thing is not to let it bind up with chips,, bigger problem with blind holes.. A straight thru hole like an oil pan shouldn't give you any trouble.. Just use your head and you'll be golden!!
Happy if any of this helps!!
All those years in the Shop should be good for something!!!
Tom...

[pocket-rocket]

Kerosene is an excellent cutting agent for aluminum...

That's pretty cool. I might only go 1/2-1 turn in, but have yet to use a cutting agent <.< So far I haven't had any bad results, but I've been wanting to get something to make the operation easier on my tools and possibly make it easier to tap holes. I happen to have 5 gallons of Kerosene in the garage right now, and getting some out of the can isn't really going to hurt my heating situation out there. Thanks

[Schmieder]

I think you'll be just fine drilling with a 11/32 bit... Chances are you'll be drilling it by hand,, chances are it'll cut oversize anyway. Seeing as it IS a tapered thread the pilot hole is less critical... If it cuts bigger than the lead-in on the tap you're OK. You could put a small chamfer on the hole to help start threads... Kerosene is an excellent cutting agent for aluminum...
Back the tap out??? HELL, I used to clamp em in a Bridgeport and tap under full power!! Set up a travel indicator, blast it in untill desired depth and hit reverse... Blind holes even!! A 1/2" NPT tap IS pretty big in diameter. BUT,, It sure doesn't hurt to back it out to break the chips,, specially if you are doing it by hand... The main thing is not to let it bind up with chips,, bigger problem with blind holes.. A straight thru hole like an oil pan shouldn't give you any trouble.. Just use your head and you'll be golden!!
Happy if any of this helps!!
All those years in the Shop should be good for something!!!
Tom...

Thanks, the tap says 45/64 hole so thats even better. That means an 11/16 is only 1/64 smaller (1/128 per edge) so I'm ok.

It may be ok to tap straight on but I only have one chance to make it right. I will back out often. It will take much longer but the results are worth it.

Again, thanks for the info.

I also heard kerosene is good to wash the crankcase. Remove the oil drain bolt and flood out the junk. But until I have seen it done myself, I wont be flooding my crankcase with kerosene.

[pocket-rocket]

I've heard of running kerosene in your crankcase with your oil for a few minutes as an alternative to engine flush. Either way I don't really care for the idea of additives and actually running the engine considering anything you put in there besides oil is diluting the oil making it less of a lubricant. If I had to use anything it would be Seafoam, though.

[Weatheralls Auto]

If your engine is clean and in good shape you don't need to.
If your engine is older and sludged up, the kerosine or any other costic substance that will eat away the sludge will also eat away at the bearings etc.

I wouldn't use any such thing myself.

[Schmieder]

The way I see it, if you take care of your car and change the fluids consistently along with changing filters often enough, you won't need to flush.

Once the engine reaches a point where it needs cleaned, it probably needs a rebuild, again, if it is taken care of properly.

Except for certain circumstances like GM's failing gaskets dropping water in the crankcase.

Update on my turbo project: The turbo is bolted in. The manifold is complete, heat wrapped and the WG is piped in as well. Tomorrow I will be cutting and welding up the downpipe.

All that is left is, downpipe fabrication, oil return flange, gauge signal wires and rebuilding exhaust.

I did not use the 16 ga. pipe for the manifold. I kept the original cross-over and welded a merge box with 9-10 gauge (3/16") steel that is slightly larger then the turbo flange opening. The wastegate is pipe 1/2" just before the turbo flange at a 60 degree angle. The manifold is rock solid. I am proud of it.

I sealed up the manifold ends and pumped smoke into it (before the turbo was bolted to it and before it was on the block). There was one little leak at a weld. That was taken care of. Now it is air tight.

Everything fits nice and snug. Nothing is forced into place, stressed.

I keep saying I'm going to get pics up but I fail to get my camera card un-stuck from my laptop. I have pics on another camera card but can't upload yet. I will some day soon, i want to show off my work.

For now, I need sleep. I'm beat up good. Shoveling snow, my hands are sunburnt from welding (forgot gloves, lol) and banged up real good. My back is stiff from leaning over the engine hours at a time.