Cool Online Software for Pipe Cutting Templates

[Schmieder]

I found a powerful on-line calculator of sorts. If you need to cut and weld two pipes together, this software can print out a template that wraps around the pipe to mark your guides.

link

Good for any degree 10-90. Input the diameter, even supports pipes of two different sizes. Also lateral offset values.

Easy template creation for any pipe angle imaginable.

This is perfect for my application. Welding in a custom turbo. Now I can make life soo much easier. The wastegate channel can be introduced to the flow at a good angle to help prevent reversion and other nasty flow turbulences. Even cutting intake aluminum pipe this software will work, for any pipe.

Building your own header collector? This will make a 4-2-1 header design/weld easier.

I believe I will be making my own turbo manifolds now. With steel pipe as thick as 3/16" or even 1/4". Cause using log manifolds presents it's own flow issues when tapping the cross-over pipe.

Hope this software helps

[pocket-rocket]

Nice find man

[robertisaar]

I believe I will be making my own turbo manifolds now. With steel pipe as thick as 3/16" or even 1/4". Cause using log manifolds presents it's own flow issues when tapping the cross-over pipe.

VERY good idea. thicker steel holds it heat better, meaning less lost to the underhood airflow and more energy running through the turbo... stronger as well, just make sure it's welded damn good.

[Schmieder]

VERY good idea. thicker steel holds it heat better, meaning less lost to the underhood airflow and more energy running through the turbo... stronger as well, just make sure it's welded damn good.

I thought the thicker the material = More heat transfer. At least, I believe I read that from Corky Bell, Maximum Boost. It makes sense, thicker plate can conduct heat away from the charge faster then a thin layer would. But header wrap and ceramic spray coating can fix that.

But aside from that you are absolutely correct about the strength.

As far as welds, I will use a 1/2" steel wrap at 16ga. around the joining areas of pipe and weld that onto the piping. It will provide two weld lines versus one and drastically cuts back on the welding junk that gets into the pipe. Makes the job a lot easier. Even though it doesn't look as good as one joint welded pipe that is ground down. But I don't care too much about the weld looks, it will be wrapped anyways.

The steel wrap around also reinforces the joint making it far stronger then the pipe itself.

Where the steel wrap meets the pipe, I ground the edges inward a little with a really rough surface. Helps the weld bit really hard and strong.

When I get to post pictures of my welded up downpipe, you will see how good I am at welding pipe. I have that special mathematical eye. The bends and turns are going to be smooth, using mandrel bends as well. The entire exhaust system is being replaced with my weld up exhaust system. I plan to minimize the distance travel to the rear and match up flow rates for the different diameter pipes.

I know headers are pointless on turbo systems due to the turbo eliminating any pulses, but can provide each cylinder its own filling w/o having to compete with the neighboring cylinder like the stock logs.

All the flow will be matched up. In example, the T3 Flange has an empty surface area of 4.07"^2.

A 1 5/8" pipe has a flow of 2.07"^2
So cylinders 1-3-5 will need a 1 5/8" pipe and 2-4-6 will need a 1 5/8 pipe.
2.07 + 2.07 >>>> 4.07 This, I hope, will prevent dramatic velocity changes potentially disturbing the flow. Velocity changes do act as turbulence when shifting up and down excessively.

Each individual cylinder will have a pipe that conforms with the exhaust D-Port. But will rapidly transition to a 1" dia pipe, which flows at 0.67"^2 and will increase the velocity of the exhaust gases. This will help keep the gas hotter as pressure increase creates heat and the gases will be hotter at the turbo turbine.

0.67 = Ind cylinder
2.07 = each side of engine, 1-3-5 and 2-4-6
4.07 = Pipe to the turbo

0.67 + 0.67 + 0.67 >>>>>> 2.07
2.07 + 2.07 >>>>>>4.07

The 3" collector should reduce pulsation, especially if I can transition back to a 2.5" pipe gradually.

Did I design every thing correctly so far? I know some people might say 1" pipe is too small but keep in mind the flow potentials remaining equal as a benefit.

[robertisaar]

I thought the thicker the material = More heat transfer. At least, I believe I read that from Corky Bell, Maximum Boost. It makes sense, thicker plate can conduct heat away from the charge faster then a thin layer would. But header wrap and ceramic spray coating can fix that.

you might have me there, i'm not sure what i was thinking... thicker material should stay a more consistant temperature though, which would help the welds out quite a bit.

as for your calculations: you're making my head spin. i haven't looked at this stuff in a LONG time.

[Schmieder]

you might have me there, i'm not sure what i was thinking... thicker material should stay a more consistant temperature though, which would help the welds out quite a bit.

as for your calculations: you're making my head spin. i haven't looked at this stuff in a LONG time.

lol, just simple division.

turbo flange area = 4
4/2 = 2
2 = from each side of motor
2/3 = 0.67
0.67 = each cylinder exhaust port

so it will be...

cyl 1 = 1" pipe (0.67 flow)
cyl 3 = 1" pipe (0.67 flow) >>>>1-3-5 CrossOver Pipe 1 5/8" (2.07 flow)
cyl 5 = 1" pipe (0.67 flow)

cyl 2 = 1" pipe (0.67 flow)
cyl 4 = 1" pipe (0.67 flow) >>>>2-4-6 CrossOver Pipe 1 5/8" (2.07 flow)
cyl 6 = 1" pipe (0.67 flow)

1-3-5 crossover (2.07 flow)
-------------------------->>> pipe to turbo 2.25" (4.14 flow)
2-4-6 crossover (2.07 flow)


phew, I'm done typing...lol

[bszopi]

The port on the head is bigger than 1", therefore you would be hurting flow out of the cylinder, which in turn will basically throw everything else out the window. You need to have the primaries AT LEAST as big as the port (slightly bigger is better to prevent reversion into the cylinder).

[Schmieder]

The port on the head is bigger than 1", therefore you would be hurting flow out of the cylinder, which in turn will basically throw everything else out the window. You need to have the primaries AT LEAST as big as the port (slightly bigger is better to prevent reversion into the cylinder).

you are correct and something new just dawned on me. I need to compensate for volume shrink due to parasitic heat loss.

So I will just do my best to keep the tapering effect as gentle as possible from the exhaust port volume to T3 flange volume.

Because it is the velocity that makes a difference in power, somewhat. If the exhaust charge is allowed to slow down, well, it losses power. If the pipes diameter/characteristics preserved the initial velocity, then no energy should be lost in expansion from heat loss as the charge travels down the manifold/pipe.

I believe that is one of the reasons why header wrap works, heat retention.

Then, naturally, if the expansion is denied via a slight taper, the expansion can not occur easily. So, in theory, the heat loss should be reduced even more.



But I can't read the heat until the manifold is built. So it would have to be a work in progress.