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  • Bumper Epoxy/Repair

    So, like many GP's, my bumper below my drivers side fog light is cracked. After lowering my car, I accidentally pulled up too close to the curb and it scraped bad and finally ripped my crack into a full blown tear below my foglight.

    I JBwelded it back together and hit it with a bit of Duplicolor, looked great and you couldn't even really tell unless you really looked at it. Well not long after, I pulled up on the same curb again and tore my jbweld job apart!

    All of this was right after I lowered my car and now I am used to not parking too close. But my bumper is still torn. I think JBWeld was too ridgid, it did not flex at all and it took very little for it to totally come apart.

    Is there some type of flexible bumper repair epoxy out there that I can use for this? I looked around Autozone but found nothing worth my time.

    Thanks.
    SpudFiles
    Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
    Theopia
    Enjoy life online.

    1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
    3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!

  • #2
    When i tore my bumper taking the car off the dolly i tried a few things.. Epoxy didn't hold up. I also used epoxy on my rear bumper cutout, It worked ok for that..

    The winner so far was sanding the backside with 80 grit sandpaper, pushing the 2 sides together and slapping on a few layers of fiberglass on the back side. Once that hardens i used a box cutter to notch a V channel in the rip, then mixed up some resin and hardener, stirred it with a few long strands of fiberglass and worked it into the groove. Once that fully hardens the sand, bondo, sand smooth, primer and paint.


    Then don't hit the curb again.

    Not sure if you saw this video: http://videos.streetfire.net/video/L...est_206907.htm

    but when i hit that pile of snow backing out, i hit the exact spot that i patched.. Still looks like new.
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

    Comment


    • #3
      You can get plastic filler weld rods and use their thing which I think blows super hot air to melt it, or use soldering iron to fill it, then sand it up. that's how you bondo a bumper. That is if you have a plastic bumper like polypropyelen or poly ethylene. Fiberglass bumper well, fiber glass it.

      Bondo, epoxy, and fiberglass are too stiff and wont stick or will crack and pop out usually. But maybe others have had luck with that.
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

      Comment


      • #4
        Plastic welding does work but doing it propperly takes alot of practice.. and the fumes aren't the best thing to be around. lol
        Past Builds;
        1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
        1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
        Current Project;
        1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

        Comment


        • #5
          True.
          sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
          1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
          16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
          Original L82 Longblock
          with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
          Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

          Comment

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