Shake with acceleration... Trans or Engine?

[3400-95-Modified]

Well from what your saying I wouldn't buy or build a new transmission until you have determined that its the issue... Trans swaps are not easy OR cheap if your having your mechanic do it... so I would say before you do anything, suck up the cold weather and go out there and do a fluid filter/change on the trans to check the color/condition of the fluid and also if there are any large metal chips in the pan... a coating of fuzz is ok on the magnet, thats normal clutch wear, but if there are heavy metal filings in the oil and chips in the pan then yes its the trans, if not then I'm still doubting your transmission is the issue.

[bszopi]

Have you checked all of the tie rod ends and ball joints? I know when I had a vibration, it was a worn out ball joint.

[IsaacHayes]

Brad, hmm, interesting, I guess a vibration could come in through a ball joint/tie rod but I would think it would be more of a softer shake than a high freq buzz. The tie rods are original and tight, ball joints are tight, only one new but that was due to a torn boot and I put a new one on (could of put on the ES poly boot doh!) The vibration in the steering wheel is like a dremel tool.... very fast.

Jon, the fluid is not that old. I had performed a complete flush about 3 years ago, I mean complete with the cooler disconnected in a bucket and a constant feed of fresh fluid down the dipstick tube with the car on until it poured out clean fluid. I did that when it wouldn't go into gear when cold. That didn't help so I put in the $6 GM auto trans seal conditioner. I'm not a believer in fixes in a can, but that shit cured the trans and made it shift much faster. It's been going strong ever since that. Before the complete flush I had done a pan and filter drop a few years prior. Trans works fine except:
1) If it's in OD and I floor it for it to go into 1st, some times it will get stuck in neutral. If I keep it in D in town, it will NEVER do this. So I've drove in D in town for 7 years like that. It seems when it is in OD and it does go to first, it goes directly to 1st and is much faster than when in D when it seems like it goes 3-2-1.

2) Sometimes when cold/going down a hill and flooring it, when it comes to the 1-2 shift it will bounce the rev limiter for a sec and then shift. Just enough to make it look like I let off and got back on when driving a manual but not speed shifting...

3) This happened about a year ago, and never since. I got off the highway and it "fell into neutral". I put it into reverse, then back into drive and all was good. Only time it did that.

I guess I'll ride it out and see. I'm not concerned enough at the moment to drop the pan, since I'm not driving it far out of town. Right now I need to get the missfire fixed. To do that I need the trashmen to pickup so I can clear out the crap in the garage... I'm not pulling plugs in 20F with 15mph winds.

I hope it holds up long enough for me to get a 2nd car and/or a place with a garage. That way I can just park it and build up a motor and trans at the same time. Who knows how long before the vibration gets even more worse until something lets go, or the 2.5" exhaust I will bolt on in spring may destroy it... LOL

[3400-95-Modified]

I dont know how you can troubleshoot anything with saying it also has a misfire... eliminate that before pointing the finger at anything else.

[IsaacHayes]

Cause a missfire is not speed dependent... The steering wheel buzz is the same frequency at 2000 rpm or 4000rpm for example. And you can hear the growl/whine change sound as you slow down.

[3400-95-Modified]

Check for what just happened to Barry... Easiest way to check is pull your speed sensor out and see if its coated with metal filings... that will be metal from the spider gears and center pin from gauling up.

also in responce to this...

I guess I'll ride it out and see. I'm not concerned enough at the moment to drop the pan, since I'm not driving it far out of town.

Get concerned... as you said its your only ride... if you dont figure out whats wrong with it soon you'll be walking to work.

Sorry but for me when it comes to viable excuses to get out of work early or to stay up and do somthing, obviously family is on the top of the list but a vehicle is a close second since without one you start to inconvenience someone else or just cant get done what you need to get done. I will outright say to work, I wont be there because I need to fix my car, if they raise any complaint then I say Ok I dont fix it and then I wont be there for a week when it breaks good...

[IsaacHayes]

Good points. I've got a shitty loaner (ford tore-ass with busted trans LOL) for now. So until I can get to the car and fix the miss fire/etc, I'm keeping as little miles on it as I can..

I'll pull the VSS when I can and check that. Good idea, and that wouldn't be so bad to fix. I wish I could find a decent car to buy (not new, a used one) but nothing is for sale now. Then I could not drive the beretta in the salt anymore and then do what I need to and want to to it (built drivetrain)

I would take off work but I don't have much time saved up since I got a bad stomach flu a while back and that killed a bunch of time. I've been working late too. Weekends haven't been very free either. Then I have to work around the weather sometimes too.

[IsaacHayes]

Drove the beretta into work today so I could wash it on the lunch hour and get the salt off.

It seems at least from testing at 30mph that if I apply the brakes the vibration goes away *I think*. The front pads are pretty worn, and need replacing, and the caliper isn't sliding very well on the slides (needs grease). Is it possible that the pad/caliper could be causing a high frequency vibration with worn pads...? Or is this just wishfull thinking... LOL. I need to check the VSS for metal filings as the diff could be my issue, but it does sound like it's on the drivers side more, but who knows without sitting in the passenger seat. Turning on the on ramp today it downshifted and just peeled out like mad, perhaps the diff is getting stiff and seizing up... who knows lol. I do have a shhhh sound when pressing the gas, not sure if that's trans or the motor breathing. Like if you tried to blow fog on a window sound. haaaashh sound or whatever. It's been like that for as long as I can remember so maybe it's the engine breathing.

I'm not sure if I'll have Monday off or not. It's inauguration but I might have to work to help place new PCs and set up users. But I think I'm one of the few ones not scheduled for that so I think I'm good. Sat/Sunday are booked. Monday I'll try and check the VSS, change the front pads, and pull plugs and do the spark plug wires (LLT warranty, need to find recepit) and see what happens.

[IsaacHayes]

Due to a family emergency the weekend was a bust, so no progress.

I did notice though that the passenger side CV looks wet, like fluid is leaking out. Either that is from when I installed it as it poured out (doubt it), or the seal is seeping a little since it was disturbed with a new axle, or the diff is about to blow and causing that ... lol...

So no real news yet on the diff or fixing the missfire.

[96ols60degree]

Issac,I have had this problem with my ciera for years,but only when I am accelerating past 65,sometimes it will rattle me out of the car,somedays smooth as pie!? I HAVE TRIED EVERYTHING POSSIBLE,BUT ME AND ALL THE DIFFERENT MECHANICS I HAVE CONSULTED CAN'T FIGURE IT OUT,SO I JUST DEAL WITH IT?

[IsaacHayes]

The out of balance shake is a missfire. Plug wires were installed in 01, and had 40k ohms for the long ones, and 13k for the short. New wires have 22k for long, and 5k for the short... So that should fix that.

The high frequency vibration that goes with speed I'm pretty sure is the differential. I pulled the VSS out last night and it was covered in metal shavings.

Now I have to decide if I want to put in a differential for close to the same cost as a 66k mile trans I found locally... The trans is more work but would be a lot less miles. The diff would be an easy fix and likely fix the problem (after dropping the pan, changing the filter and installing the fix to keep the diff oil tube from dropping down). The trans shifts fine other wise. I think I did log a bit of converter slip though the other day, and the 35mph-1st downshift isn't as neck snapping anymore. So a fresh trans would be an "upgrade" especially a higher FDR, and some accumulator mods.

I will see tonight if the plug wires return the downshift to 1st neck snap. And later the cat will be replaced with all new exhaust, I'll see then but I bet it's the trans.

95ols60: Have you tried a new ICM ? But it could be torque converter shudder too, the lock up solenoid could be going out too possibly, locking/unlocking...

[96ols60degree]

AND THIS IS WHY I SIGNED UP FOR THIS WEBSITE!ISSAC YOU ARE A BRILLIANT!! MY DIFF IS NOISY AS HELL!! I BET THAT IS MY VIBRATION AT HIGH SPEEDS,BECAUSE I HAVE REPLACED EVERYTHING ELSE POSSIBLE,AND I MEAN THIS BABY IS REBUILT,EXCEPT FOR THE DIFF,ENGINE,AND TRANS!.GOD I AM A IDIOT SOMETIMES!

[IsaacHayes]

Pull your VSS and see if there is metal dust on it...

But if it shakes sometimes and sometimes not, I don't think it's the diff you are feeling... more like a miss-fire or torque converter issues.

[bszopi]

Seriously... lay off the all-caps posts. Its annoying.

[IsaacHayes]

I guess this is normal though for 200,000+ mile trans. Barry said the 100k mile 5spds he has seen had that much or more...

But I cleaned it off and will check it in a week or so of driving and see how much more sticks to it.