Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Shake with acceleration... Trans or Engine?

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    CV's can still cause a noise going straight... Why rule out the parts that are under $100 bux and go for ones that take a full day to swap??? Just start with bearing, which you did, then now do the axle and see what happens.

    Rule out the simple stuff first... If you havent gotten your wheels balanced do that too... Honestly I can't tell you anything in the trans that will send a high frequency vibration back through the wheel, and last as long as it has... when these start to make noise the blow up rather quickly after.

    Also if you still have a receipt, bring back the other bearing and get that replaced, I've heard of very cheap units that fail quickly. Another thing to check is see how much your trans mount is sagging and if your trans case is touching your frame rail yet... if you havent replaced that mount that is definately a possibility.

    As for output bearings in the trans there is only one on the passenger side and its a bushing, and if the one on the drivers side went out then you would loose support for your axle and blow out the seal within 5 min of driving, trust me its happened to me, I cooked a bearing and I was on the side of the road in 5 min pouring out B&M trick shift oil all over the road.
    Last edited by 3400-95-Modified; 12-29-2008, 04:53 PM.

    Got Lope?
    3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
    Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
    Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
    12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

    Comment


    • #17
      I posted this on Bstuff at 3:30:
      ------------------
      I did some inspection on my lunch break, and the trans fluid smells good, and is nice and clear, a very light pink. Not red or dark at all. It is a bit bubbly, but I didn't row it through the gears before pulling the dipstick.

      I still have the original(!) drivers side CV axle. I replaced the passenger side one due to clicking after a wheel bearing replacement and that it was causing an out of balance shake. Should I try to replace the drivers side and see if that is the noise or not? The noise does not sound like knocking CV, and it's not an out of balance shake, but I did notice a noise with the wheel turned and moving, the same rubber on metal sound sort of.. (but no tire rubbing). Also with the wheel turned all the way to the side, I can move the drivers side CV back and forth, but the passenger side is tight. If the wheel is straight and car is raised with control arms hanging, both sides have some play back and forth.

      --------------

      So yeah I'm with you guys now, I think I'll try the CV and hope I'm lucky. I sure would like a fresh trans, and it would be fun to build one up new, but I'm loosing the place I'm at so now is a bad time anyway, with no time or place to do this.

      Jon, that is exactly the info I was looking for! Sounds like it might not be the trans (I was thinking why the hell does it still work so good)!! I didn't know the bearings were fluid bushings I thought they were roller or something.

      It is not Wheel/tire/suspension related. It was doing it (although less) before I rebuilt the suspension, and before and after I put on my winter wheels (with brand new tires).

      The passenger side wheel bearing is fairly new, less than a year old, and no noise from that side. They are $50 bearings no warranty. I didn't feel like dropping an extra $30 for just a 1 year warranty. Crazy everything else at the store is lifetime warranty.

      I will check the trans mount, but I don't think it's sagging. Easy enough there are replacements on ebay for cheap if it is. I wonder now if the out of balance vibration on acceleration I feel ever so often is the CV or the side mount like I was thinking. I think I will do the CV first, find out, and do the mount regardless later.

      Wish me luck guys!
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

      Comment


      • #18
        CV ordered. $70 for new, $60 for reman with core charge. I ordered new. Will be here tomorrow. Will put on tomorrow night if mechanic guy I know will let me slide in and use his shop. (don't have impact or big socket to take off axle nut)
        sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
        1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
        16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
        Original L82 Longblock
        with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
        Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

        Comment


        • #19
          Luck guys!
          Andy

          sigpic

          fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
          fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

          62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

          Comment


          • #20
            I'll be finding out soon. Eating then picking up the axle.
            sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
            1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
            16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
            Original L82 Longblock
            with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
            Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

            Comment


            • #21
              Well the store didn't get the axle in. The delivery truck dropped the wrong one off, and a tire shop got mine. If they realize the mistake and get it back tomorrow, I might be able to put it on on new years day, maybe not. If not it will be Sat as they won't have another one until Friday. Hopefully my axle is different enough from the one the tire shop needs that they don't jam it in someones car, and ruin the axle or their car...
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

              Comment


              • #22
                Well, the CV axle didn't do squat. The vibration in the wheel has to be the trans. The suspension, bearings, axles, wheels/tires all have been changed and it's still there. 70mph my hands quickly go numb from the high freq vibration. I do have a missfire it seems, as that's the out of balance shake so I will be pulling plugs and hooking up my laptop as soon as the weather isn't 20 out. But the vibration in the wheel is ONLY speed dependent.
                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                Original L82 Longblock
                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                Comment


                • #23
                  if it's speed dependent, then it's not a misfire. i understand converter shudder is when the clutch slips when it's supposed to be fully locked. usually it happens under load, like going up a hill. since you've had two different sets of wheels and tires on, i'd say it's safe to rule out a bad tire/balance, and bent rim. i wonder how good the rear bearings are.
                  Andy

                  sigpic

                  fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                  fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                  62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    I have 2 separate issues. The missfire/whatever that shakes the whole car, sometimes, sometimes not when accelerating, which I think now is a missfire like was suggested above, and now the motor is running a little rough when idling so I'm going to try and fix that with wires/whatever.

                    But the speed dependent issue is what I'm worried about. The vibration in the steering wheel. I don't think the rear bearings would make the steering wheel vibrate like that would it?
                    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                    Original L82 Longblock
                    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      hard to give advice from afar. can't think much else that could be wrong, other than badly warped rotor/s, or an alignment issue. you did say this got worse after suspension work. if you lowered it, then that can throw your toe and camber off spec. did you have it aligned afterwords?
                      Andy

                      sigpic

                      fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                      fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                      62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        It did this before and after I redid the suspension. Yes I had it aligned because I changed the struts. It has to be the trans, nothing else is left. Rotors are not warped, no shake on braking. It's a high frequency vibration at 30mph and 70mph like, well a vibrator or something LOL I hear a super charger whine sometimes after driving for a while when I'm slowing down to pulling through the drive-through speeds, that is only when I'm rolling forward. If I stop, it stops. No idea what component is doing this in the trans, but it's something, and that worries me.
                        sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                        1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                        16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                        Original L82 Longblock
                        with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                        Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          it's sounding like the trans to me. my converter was defective when new, it didn't vibrate, but made a wine/scraping noise when slow rolling. if i stopped, or started to drive, it went away.
                          Andy

                          sigpic

                          fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
                          fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70

                          62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.

                          Comment


                          • #28
                            I don't know. Just going by my knowledge of these transmissions, you would have had MORE issues than this by now if you have continued to drive it the way it is. Also with the noises you are describing your fluid would look like shit, it would look red, it would be black and laced with silver filings.

                            Got Lope?
                            3500 Build, Comp XFI Cam 218/230 .050 dur .570/.568 lift 113LSA
                            Fully Balanced, Ported, 3 Angle Valve Job, 65mm TCE TB, S&S Headers.
                            Stage-1 Raybestos/Alto 4t60e-HD, EP LSD, 3.69FDR
                            12.61@105 Epping NH Oct 2015 Nitrous 100shot (melted plugs) 13.58@98.8 N/A 3200LBS

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Have you recently put in fix a flat or a like in any of the tires? Or maybe you have water in the wheel?

                              If you have used fixaflat, dismount the tire and properly fix it. Then soak out all the liquids. If you have not, still have the tires busted of the bead and checked for water.
                              A 50/50 possible way to tell with out busting the tires down is to have the SAME tire balanced 3 times. usually EACH time or 2 of 3 time the tire will have a different reading each time.
                              Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Jon, it beats me. The fluid is a light/clear pink. It did seem, but I did not check, when I pulled the drivers side axle out that the thing it snaps into looked a little loose.. Strange how that side doesn't pour out fluid like the other side. Whole different setup there.

                                1988GTU, did the same thing with my summer 225/50R16, as the winter 185/75R14. It's not tire related, the buzz wouldn't really be a tire issue unless the tread was making a noise/extreme vibration. Maybe I should edit the title.. I've figured out the shake(missfire pretty sure) but the vibration is what worries me.
                                sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
                                1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
                                16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
                                Original L82 Longblock
                                with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
                                Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X