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We finally got a "new" compressor

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  • We finally got a "new" compressor

    Our old direct drive compressor died. It was a 1989 v2 piston head with reed valves, 5hp motor direct drive, 80 gallon tank. The "new" one is a 1952 inline 2 head, with a 1960's 3hp 3phase motor that we pieced together, on top of a 60 gallong tank.

    I have the old backup (sounds the same as the big one) compressor on for the first few seconds of the video, but now we can talk on the phone while the new one is running!!! No more stereo on 50% just to hear it, now I can have it at 10-20% and hear it fine


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  • #2
    Don't make 'em like they used to eh?
    '98 Volvo V90 - Ford 5.0 swap in progress
    '96 LR Range Rover 4.6 HSE - suspiciously reliable
    '92 Volvo 740 Wagon - former parts car, now daily-driver beater
    '71 Opel Kadett Wagon - 1.9L CIH w/ Weber DGV 32/36, in bits

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    • #3
      Not in the least.

      For a comperable new compressor, we would be talking about $6000 or so, and it would be much louder.

      If you have a tank already, you can put together one similar in noise and efficiency for about $750 buying new components. Harbor Freight sells the v2 compressor heads and the motors (requires 5hp), then the plumbing/electric/misc parts needed to compete the conversion. The cutoff switches are usually universal.

      The old one was single phase 220, so this new one should also help out the electric costs. The 110v back up compressor cost us almost $100 more this month in electric
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      • #4
        I would think it would not cost that much to replace the 3hp motor with something newer with a higher efficiency rating, maybe in the 89% plus range. Whats that 60's motor rated for?
        sigpic

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        • #5
          The 60's motor cost us a couple hours in machining time, so we took it.

          Not sure on the eff rating. It's quiet, pumps up quick, and surely can't cost us more than the temporary 110v compressor did (current elec bill was about $100+ more for the 3 weeks we used it). Most 3 phase equipment is extremely efficient compared to home-garage equipment.

          Self employment doesn't give us the luxury of buying all new equipment, but everything in the shop is paid for - nothing is on credit
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          • #6
            Well they do cost cost more then I remember, but if you look at cost for usage it may be woth it in the long run.



            I'm sure you could find something cheaper, maybe on E-bay.
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            • #7
              That pump is super quiet. Makes you wonder why they dont make them like that,,, is the eff really bad or something? I would think it would be pretty good if it's quiet, unless its just not getting much air each pump into the tank.
              sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
              1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
              16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
              Original L82 Longblock
              with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
              Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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              • #8
                10CFM goes in.

                It's the valves that make the noise on modern compressors. Instead of using a "check valve" type, they just use a reed. This makes noise and heat.

                You can get quieter compressors now, but most are the roots type (like a supercharger) and cost about 2x that of a belt-driven traditional cyl.
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                • #9
                  Originally posted by IsaacHayes View Post
                  That pump is super quiet. Makes you wonder why they dont make them like that,,, is the eff really bad or something? I would think it would be pretty good if it's quiet, unless its just not getting much air each pump into the tank.
                  Maybe I wasn't completely clear on my statement, I wasn't questioning the efficiency of the compressor but more of the 60's motor. Due to the advances in motor winding coils. Newer motors tend to be a lot more efficient in their usage of power.
                  sigpic

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                  • #10
                    plus the inline type tend to run the back cyl hotter due to the reduced airflow that is blocked by the front one, that is why a V type is so much better, and just to note, those v type at h/f are just 2 single stage cyls, you really want to look for a 2 stage V type, where one side has a smaller bore, and only one filter, because the air comes in the filter goes to one side of the v gets compressed, then it sent to the smaller side and get compressed again and then sent to the tank,where as the cheap hf style v's have two air filterss, and only compress the air coming in once, so it takes longer to build the same pressure. Alway be aware of that when looking at v type compressors. Some inlines are 2 stage also , just they cause more heat in the air they pump. Here is my old 60's model 2 stage IR v type

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                    • #11
                      Both ourcompressors are two stage, and actually they are inline as well.

                      My blasting compressor blew the 3hp single ph motor (also a 60's or 70's), so I threw a spare 1hp 3ph motor we have on it temporarily, what a joke

                      Shopping for a 3 or 5hp single ph for it now. It was perfect to give me about 10 mins of syphon blasting with 45gal. Also plan on swapping out the syphon for tank blaster soon. Need to make good use of our 72x30x24" cabinet hehe
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