The rules say parts can't be donated unless their dollar value is figured into the value of the car. However, the rules also say you can deduct from the value of the car by selling parts off of it you don't need. So if, for example, you buy the car for $200, but you sell the interior for $300, the car's total value is -$100. therefore you'd have $600 to spend on tuning it up for the race. And remember, anything considered to be safety equipment (i.e. brakes, tires, roll cage, racing harness) do not factor into the value of the car. I have to read over the complete rules myself still. I suggest anyone who wants to be involved does the same so we're all on the same page. I like the sound of that 3.1 Sunbird by the way. What year is it?
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That's better yet. Put a stonger clutch in it, and increase the odds of it holding up.\"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"
1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles
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Originally posted by OldSkoolGP View PostI like that. The 93 used a Getrag tranny which was my big worry, I didn't want an Isuzu box. I think we've got our race car.
Either way, a clean running 3.1 could do this no problem.
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Hey I love the idea of being on board with this! Driving a '93 Sunbird 3.1/5-speed would be "rather familiar" to me, so that doesn't hurt either. If we split the costs among the 6 drivers it shouldn't cost too much either.Joe Morgan
bracketracer
'93 Sunbird SE 3.1/5-speed 14.869 @ 90.96 Heavily Modded
'00 Grand Prix GTP Sedan 13.689 @ 100.97 Lightly Modded
'09 G8 GXP Manual Trans 13.166 @ 106.47 BONE STOCK
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I still don't understand the "value" of parts. If there was an auction on ebay for something that no one wanted, and it went for $1, then would you list it for $1, even though a local junkyard wants to charge you $50 for the same part? Hence the reason I asked about donating. I mean hell, instead of donating parts, what if someone sells you a bunch of crap they no longer want for $10, even though to you it is worth $1000?-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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Originally posted by OldSkoolGP View PostIt's doesn't matter if it's a Pontiac Sunbird or a Chevy Celebrity wagon.Kaiser George IX: 1996 Buick Century Special wagon. 213-SFI. 250k miles. Never gonna give you up, never gonna let you down. First documented LX9 swap in an A-body! Click here to read my build thread!
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Originally posted by bszopi View PostI still don't understand the "value" of parts. If there was an auction on ebay for something that no one wanted, and it went for $1, then would you list it for $1, even though a local junkyard wants to charge you $50 for the same part? Hence the reason I asked about donating. I mean hell, instead of donating parts, what if someone sells you a bunch of crap they no longer want for $10, even though to you it is worth $1000?
i think if you actually pay for it and can prove it, it's worth the price you paid for it. If you didn't pay for it, aka it was given to you, the estimated value of the part is added to your $500 limit.
Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
Cammed 3500 --> ???
1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies
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That sucks. You're gonna see a ton of cars out there with parts worth $200, but they "paid" $5, or something like that.
This Sunbird with a 3.1 and a 5M would be a good machine. I'm VERY concerned about the brakes in that car, though. They are small, and if we're gonna basically beat the car, those brakes will take a pounding. Having a manual trans will help, I know, but still, that will be one area that MUST be worked over.\"NASCAR is an integral part of my life. A part of me died when Dale Earnhardt died.\"
1997 Olds CS 4-door S/C - 183,527 miles
1999 Chevrolet Lumina 3100 - Wife took it at 158,340 miles
1989 Volvo 740GL Wagon 2.3 8v - 232,050 miles
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it would be possible to do the N/W/F brake swap relatively cheap(even though brakes dont count toward the 500), but then you'd need different bolt pattern wheels for the front and rear, which sucks unless you bring 1 or 2 spares of each bolt pattern.... it's also a lot of work for a car that cost $150 bucks and will probably die during this race :P But it'd be a big upgrade, even over the bigger 92+ brakes
i think another thing would be a good idea, route some ducting from the front of the car, to the brakes, i find the brakes on J's to be decent if they're cool, i've overheated mine a couple times, and they're toasted once they overheat really bad...
Cammed 3400 --> 224whp 210wtq
Cammed 3500 --> ???
1 of 5 3500 J-Bodies
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I would rather use W wheels because I can get them cheap and 16", and W brakes would stop the thing a lot better. We'll have to review brake options because I'd like to have brakes on there that can last the race so we don't have to swap pads half way through.I may own a GTO now, but I'm still a 60V6er at heart.
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