im too heavy on the throttle, with my 3100 i usually get between 13 and 18mpg and 24mpg max on the highway... but hey! i got 22mpg and made the trip from pittsburgh to columbus (188 miles) in only 2 hours
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Dang, the 18mpg I listed for my modified 3500 was for 100% city driving.
How are some of you guys getting such bad MPG with stock engines?SpudFiles
Blast vegetables and whatever else you can think of!
Theopia
Enjoy life online.
1996 3500GP Coupe, "Bright White".
3500 swap, 60degreeV6 1393 Cam, Ported Intakes, Comp Cams Valve Springs, 65mm TB, Custom Pushrods, S&S Headers, 97 PCM with DHP Powrtuner, 2.5" back to dual Hooker Aerochambers, SS Brake Lines, Addco swaybar, KYB's, Intrax Springs, STB's, etc!
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Maybe they need new O2 sensor and other tune-up related stuff? Worn transmission? Heavy stereo system/payload? :P
18mpg in the city for a 3.5l with a cam isn't too bad! Have you got it tuned in 100% yet?sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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never said my engine/car was stock, lol
you have to consider the fact that im at more than 60% throttle during most of my city driving and the average for that trip was 94mph and i certainly wasn't able to maintain that constantly but i did spend a bit of time over the 100mph mark... considering i have a 4t40e that doesn't like to kick down and cruise at those speeds it kinda makes sense, hell, most of that trip was spent between 2k and 5k rpm with maybe 20-30 minutes spent cruising in the sub 2 rpm range
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How bad does a big cam kill your MPG? Like can you have a decent power cam with some lope and still have good MPG like stock? It seems my mods have only helped my mileage.sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
Original L82 Longblock with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.
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One of the biggest influences to fuel economy (especially highway) is Weight, Drag, and in some cases gearing. Reduce the vehicle weight, make it more aerodynamic, and keep the engine at a good cruising rpm range and you'll improve it big time, no matter how big the engine size.Brian
'95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's
'08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD
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i get 22-26 in town depending on outside temps. best highway was 31 on one tank mostly at 75 mph and about 1.5 hours (both ways) on extremely steep hills. like down shifting to 3rd at about 1/2 throttle.
type of tires--compound and width, and psi factor in as well.Andy
sigpic
fastest 1/8: 10.19@ 67.17
fastest 1/4: 16.16@ 82.70
62mm TB, 1.6 roller tip rockers, Ostrich 2.0, UD pulley, TB heater bypass, K&N, 180* stat, No cat, 99Grand AM dual cooling fans. 4T65E swap FDR 3.69, EP LSD, F.A.S.T. transmission controller, TransGo shift kit.
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Plus just turning an engine slower does not mean it is using less fuel. The less mechanical advantage you give the engine through the gears the more torque it must make. To make torque you must burn fuel so you just lost your goal.
To make more hp you must burn more fuel. tq and hp are two diffrent things. Look at the way olds built most of the rear drive cars. Big engine and small ratio rears. You could find a 455 turning 2.73's getting good mpg. Look at the L98 Tuned port engine cars. low hp, high torque, od and small ratio's 30 mpg highway.
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Originally posted by betterthanyou View PostThe best way to get economy is a light car with....
The claimed fuel efficiency of 230 mpg at 55 mph (1.0 L/100 km at 90
km/h) would make it one of the most fuel-efficient cars in the world.
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