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SBC 305 1986 Iron heads H engine 4Bll

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  • SBC 305 1986 Iron heads H engine 4Bll

    I know this section is for 6 cylinders, but I know someone got to have more opinions.

    I am getting light to moderate oil and carbon on the plugs.

    Can leaky/dried valve seals cause this?? I would think but just asking.

    I know the rings may be bad, but such a low mileage engine can it be possible?? Compression is good on all cylinders and match.

    I have seen bad rings affects before and it wasn't pretty on the plug. Not only is it visable sometimes on the cylinder wall, but it is smooth like it sould be.

    This is just light oil and mainly carbon on all plugs.

    I am in the process of repairing some broken vac lines and some air injection check valves, and trying to figuare out why I have a MAP hooked up and a Baro sensor> (which no vac line was hooked up to). By the manual from what I can see, the EGR may be hooked up wrong.

    I get hesitation on cold starts untill warm, and carb goes into closed loop. Valve lash on load to wot, noticable not LOUD, Bad valve seat??? or spring assemblys, improper pushrod/rocker adjustment???

    I got a rebuilt or basically new Rochester M4ME 6004 series 4BLL CCC Carb and had my friend install it and tune it in, still hesitation. He said the intake Manifold needs to be redone, possiblly new valve seals or just new heads. Changed the plugs and wires, put a new rotor, and coil in and inspected distributer like the manual points out, retimed. Smoke worse now than before, didn't run long but notice more Idle smoke than before which there was none at idle. Still has a hesitation in one cylinder.

    Smoke out the rear on MID to WOT, not white or sweet smelling. black sooty looking stuff is spitting out and always done this since I got the car.

    Coolant clear as a bell green and no over flow problems.

    Any opinions would be appreciated.
    I am back

    Mechanical/Service Technican

  • #2
    The engine runs like my old Vortec 4.3L engine in my Jimmy, that needed new valve guides and seals, and a new EGR it was stuck open.

    Anyway, all the plugs have that same appearance as in my 305. minor oil deposits with carbon and slight fuel smell.

    It to had a hesitation on #6 cylinder and the intake manifold was leaking in the valley.

    I can't get the computer to throw a EGR code no matter what I do, unless I pull the solinoid plug. I even took it off the manifold and still no code. Thinking about removing the EGR and just plug the solinoid on the EGR side, but keep it active.
    I am back

    Mechanical/Service Technican

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    • #3
      Why did this topic move?? Or did I put it here....

      I thought it was in Pushrod...

      General pushrod is a better choice for this topic
      I am back

      Mechanical/Service Technican

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      • #4
        I suppose no one know anything in general about pushrods.
        I am back

        Mechanical/Service Technican

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        • #5
          Whats this in?

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          • #6
            i dunno but 305's belong in a boat, at the end of a chain, being used as the anchor

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            • #7
              I'd try the EGR vavle first.... then investigate the other two sensors possibly being hooked up. If they are giving false readings, the computer will tell the carb the incorect things to do, possibly causing it to run rich. On the oil consumption..... that is going to be a valve guide/piston ring issue...... not much else to do there other than a tear down.....
              1993 Chevy Lumina Z34; 4T60-E, CATCO 2.5" hi-flo cat, Flowmaster Exh, American Racing Aero Rims, KYB GR-2's
              1999 Tacoma SR5 TRD 3.4V6 4WD, lift, tires, rims, exhaust, couple of tricks
              1962 Buick Electra 225 STOCK... and gonna keep it that way

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              • #8
                Ain't that the truth!

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                • #9
                  It doen't matter what it is in since GM manufactured almost all 305's, 1986 sums up what it is.

                  1986 or later design iron head, CCC system.

                  I went and got a Vac Diagram manual for V8'' 1982 to 1986...I also found several pinched lines and the EGR thingy that mounts into the T-stat housing was broken and jerry rigggged, and the purge TVS was not hooked into anything the lines were bypassed and joined to each other, wrong vac line to the EGR so I switched it.

                  I still can't figure out why I have a Baro sensor and a MAP it just boggles me.
                  I am back

                  Mechanical/Service Technican

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                  • #10
                    The Baro and MAP is for altitude compensation...


                    Cliff Scott
                    89 BerettaGT
                    89 Volvo740
                    Cliff Scott
                    89 BerettaGT
                    04 AleroGX

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                    • #11
                      This thread was moved cause it has not a damn thing to do with 60V6 engines. Therefore, its off topic no matter how you word it.
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

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                      • #12
                        CCC = Computer Controlled Carb, which has almost all the same ECM sensors as EFI, but it runs worse. That's why you have the Baro and MAP sensors. Still boggled?

                        Marty
                        '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
                        '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
                        '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
                        '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

                        Quote of the week:
                        Originally posted by Aaron
                        This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

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                        • #13
                          This thread was moved cause it has not a damn thing to do with 60V6 engines. Therefore, its off topic no matter how you word it.

                          On the contrary..

                          Let see ummm push-rods, valves, seals, rockers, or roller rockers, cams.......Even the way the intake manifold is mounted is simalar.

                          Geesh next time I will phrase it V6 with 2 extra cylinders.

                          It does say anything push-rod related in general. Let me check....this is a push-rod.

                          Your arugment against push-rod V8's makes no sence.

                          Since this can also be related to Push-rod V6's no matter which way you think, I am sorry about being a jerk, but saying that push-rod V8's have no relation the V6's is asinine.

                          Dried seals of a V6 60 degree can leak the same way a V8 would.
                          I am back

                          Mechanical/Service Technican

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                          • #14
                            You forgot pistons, connecting rods, and crankshafts. Give me a break.
                            How hard is it to comprehend the concept of a website/forum dedicated to a particular engine platform???
                            '99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
                            '98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
                            '84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
                            '88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now

                            Quote of the week:
                            Originally posted by Aaron
                            This is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              I dont give a fuck if its all the same relatively. This is 60DegreeV6.com, therefore all sections labeled pushrod perf/maint/general are for 60V6 engines. Anything not corresponding to a 60V6 is off topic. If you wanna play bullshit with pushrod and DOHC, then this board is now for just about every piston engine on the planet. Sorry, this is not the case and you don't run this board.
                              Ben
                              60DegreeV6.com
                              WOT-Tech.com

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