Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

valley screen?

Collapse
This topic is closed.
X
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Yeah the block is iron not aluminum. Those rods don't splatter on aluminum though I've seen a video of them. Looks like solder.
    sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
    1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
    16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
    Original L82 Longblock
    with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
    Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

    Comment


    • #17
      either way, i dont really care, sorry but im trying to ask about epoxy and noone seems to care or offer a decent opinion on the subject, welding is out of the question and so is brazing, im going for an epoxy installation, so what do you guys think about what i posted earlier? i dont think baking the block should be an issue since i'll be doing it anyways to get rid of oil and coolant residue

      Comment


      • #18
        Use JB weld. Or any High Temp 2 part epoxy. The screen will not fall into the bottom of the engine because you make it larger than the hole it is covering. It really does not need that much holding power.

        Just make sure the block is clean and you mix the epoxy right.
        1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
        1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
        Because... I am, CANADIAN

        Comment


        • #19
          i plan to bake the block prior to machining to get all the oil out, then i'll have them do a quick cure before machining if i choose to go with lab metal, i really like the looks of it though

          Comment

          Working...
          X