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c5 master cylinder specs

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  • c5 master cylinder specs

    can anyone tell me the bore of a stock c5 master cylinder and does anyone know if they kept the same bolt spacing for cars of that era?

    if it has a larger bore and bolts up im looking at it as a solution for the long travel the n-body stock brakes have

    so far i haven't found out jack from the corvette community....

  • #2
    Originally posted by El_Diablo View Post
    can anyone tell me the bore of a stock c5 master cylinder and does anyone know if they kept the same bolt spacing for cars of that era?

    if it has a larger bore and bolts up im looking at it as a solution for the long travel the n-body stock brakes have

    so far i haven't found out jack from the corvette community....
    2001 Grand Am:
    # of Line Ports:2
    Bore Size:24MM
    Finish:Rust-Preventative Finish
    Line Thread Size:M10-1.0
    M10-1.0


    2001 Corvette:
    # of Line Ports:2
    Bore Size:1.00000" (25.4mm)
    Finish:Rust-Preventative Finish
    Line Thread Size:M12-1.5
    M12-1.0


    Both share the same part # for the master cylinder gasket......
    2000 Grand Am GT
    2011 Chevy Impala

    "The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter

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    • #3
      hehehe

      guess i'll be trying to convert my malibu over to the vette master cylinder if i can find one for under $150 used

      the lines should be easy enough to swap convert, hell, i could prolly get away just making an adapter tube for each line.... and i would be able to drill and tap for a large bolt.... hmmm

      1mm doesn't sound like much but in hydraulics it could improve feel and force a good bit

      what do you guys think?

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      • #4
        You could try the full size trucks. The 2500 series and up used a 1.25" master cylinder. The line location is on the drivers side.
        1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
        1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
        Because... I am, CANADIAN

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        • #5
          hmmm, have to say, it honestly slipped my mind about using a truck MC or maybe even a full size van.....

          anyone have the specs for a truck MC?

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          • #6
            2001 Chevy/GMC 2500 (4wheel disc)
            # of Line Ports:2
            Bore Size:34MM (1.3385")
            Finish:Rust-Preventative Finish
            Line Thread Size:1/2-20
            1/2-20

            The bolt pattern looks the same.....
            2000 Grand Am GT
            2011 Chevy Impala

            "The world's best cam combined with a poor set of heads will produce an engine that's a dog. But bolt on a set of great heads even with a poor cam, and that engine will still make great power." ~John Lingenfelter

            Comment


            • #7
              Going from a 24mm bore to a 34mm bore doubles the size of the cylinders square inches and will require twice the leg pressure to have the same stopping force. It will be firmer but require a lot more effort. Stainless brake lines will help to give some firmness without increasing effort.
              MinusOne - 3100 - 4T60E
              '79 MGB - LZ9 - T5
              http://www.tcemotorsports.com
              http://www.britishcarconversions.com/lx9-conversion

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              • #8
                already planning on it but the increased line pressure wit less pedal travel is what im really after

                relly i wouldn't think it would increase the effort needed by to much but it should really help out with the increased pistons sizes planned for all four corners, basically what im looking for up front are c5 calipers with two piece f-body rotors (if i can find them cheap enough) up front which will be cooled via fog light mounted brake ducts, i haven't figured out which pads i want to use yet though

                for the rear it will be a lot more mild with a grand am rear disc setup but im going to see what i can do about making a caliper spacer so that i can use a lil larger rotor on the back to help even things out a lil bit by increasing the rear braking torque

                either way this will prolly end up one of the most exotic and experimental brake setups on an n-body if everything works out how i have planned, biggest challenges right now seem to be the brake ducts and master cylinder and for the brake ducts its just a matter of fabbing up some modified dust shields and routing everyting past the suspension, guess the big question mark right now is the master cylinder, i already know i'll be flowing a bit more fluid when the corvette pistons come into play

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                • #9
                  so whats everyone think?

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                  • #10
                    I think your gonna hate yourself the first tine you drive in the rain with the ducts. Cold water + hot rotors= bad combo.
                    Tuning a car is full of compromises. You must decide if you are willing to give up either reliability, performance, or a whole load of cash. Also remember that repairs will seem to come up much more often as you strive for even more performance

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                    • #11
                      building block off plates with STI style scoops... just haven't figured out how to mount them yet, im actually thinking a cable and pin setup but im not sure, i want to keep the front end as aerodynamic as possible and so bolts and wing nuts aren't exactly an option

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                      • #12
                        If the big master gets too hard you can hydro boost it . I am in the (slow) process of installing it into my truck and will later upgrade to a larger master cylinder. I have a feeling that my stock one will make the peddle too soft.
                        1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
                        1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
                        Because... I am, CANADIAN

                        Comment

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