Wiring GURU's, I need your help again

[grandprixgtp_91]

im having alot of troubles finding what you need, can you tell me the exact colour of wires you need figured out, it seems there isnt alot of info in gms crap here, but im sure it has to be here.

Jake

[3100 MPFI]

It is the PURPLE/WHITE wire in location C in the shifter connector to wire D3 on the key soleniod.

On the diagram I have it goes from the SOLENOIL ASM-SHIFTER ASSEMBLY to the COLUMN IGNITION KEY SOLENOID.

one correlation that I see is that the same force symbol for the key is identical to the shifter, so that tells me it is cuased by something moving. I just need to replicate that one wire, or disable it (so that it will not lock the shifter, but the brake pedal lock will still work, that way the shifter will remain LOCKED with the key off (no power to hot in run)).

If the GM diagram page numbers help, it is 8A-138-1B and it the diagram page is called Brake Transmission Shifter interlock (BTSI) - console shift

I will see if I can figure out how to get the entire diagram posted to see if you can make heads or tails of it.

[3100 MPFI]

See if this will help you. If you have trouble reading it, I can make it bigger

http://i174.photobucket.com/albums/w86/riven2129/138.jpg

[grandprixgtp_91]

ok heres another one i found i hope this one helps more, it is very hard finding stuff on this thing, everywhere it points to is a dead end.

Jake

[3100 MPFI]

well, it gives me a different pic top go with. I will print that out and maybe the dumbasses are radio shack and help me with it. I recognice the diode in that one, and the diagram that I have says a ZENER diode, so I might be abel to do something with that.

I am going to pick up some things tomorrow, and see if MAYBE if I don't connect the second HOT IN RUN wire, then it might not activate it (like my stock Cutlass Supreme does).

I know in my 1995, with the battery OUT OF THE CAR, if I turn the key ON, I can pull it out of park, but if the battery it on, then the pedal lock solenoid prevents it. Maybe if the shifter does not get power from those 2 wires, and I don't even hook them up, then maybe it will be like the older one.

HMM. Check your PM's. I got something else to ask, but it is a SECRET

[3100 MPFI]

grandprixgtp_91 This vid is for YOU.

Thanks man.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=udYTlJkw0iI

First of all, I would like to say that I did something that I normally would NEVER do. I used QUICK SPLICES to wire this up.

My reason for doing this is so that I can TEST IT, and if it works the way I want it too, I will take it all apart and SOLDER it all. I am also out of solder, but I needed to know if my idea would even work the way I wanted it too BEFORE I started making permanent connections.

Now that I know it DOES work the way I want it too, I can go back and solder everything and clean all of that up before I put the console back together.

This is basically what I did. After comparing the funky diagram that I have, and comparing the one you sent me, I decided to hook up only 3 of the 5 stock wires and see what happens. I knew one of 2 things would happen.

The first thing was that it would not work at all unless I had all 5 wire hooked up. The second thing was that it would do what I want with it hooked up.

I am so glad to be right this time.

Turns out the older setup is VERY SIMILAR to the newer setup in the fact that if it does not get power, it is disabled.

The wire that I could not figure out (the purple/white one). if you do not connect it, but at the same time do not connect the opposite side of it (the PINK hot in run), then it does not activate at all leaving the other 3 wires to work. That is why there was TWO hot in run wires going to the same connector, but different places.

For the other 3 wires, one is a PARK NEUTRAL switch (taken from the CHIME MODULE), one is the hot in run, and the last is the BRAKE PEDAL. I just hooked those up correctly, and as you can see in the video when the key is ON it is LOCKED UNTIL YOU PRESS THE BRAKE PEDAL, but when it is OFF, it will not unlock. The key has to have power for it to unlock.

Bascially, even without the key lock, it still works like the stock setup, which is what I wanted.

Last good thing about that vid is you get to hear the BAD ASS BOSE Radio in my car;

LOL

[grandprixgtp_91]

looks good, great to see you got it working!

Jake