Looks like it was introduced in 79 as an 80 model...
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After 3 years of darkness, it finally sees daylight......
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-Brad-
89 Mustang : Future 60V6 Power
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Follow the build -> http://www.3x00swap.com/index.php?page=mustang-blog
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Love it! My mom had a '81 Citation 2/dr hatch in gold bought new. Wish she'd have kept it around!Brian
'95 Cutlass Supreme- "The Rig"
3400 SFI V6, 4T60e
Comp Cam grind, LS6 valve springs, OBD2 swap, Tuned
2.5" DP/ 2.5" dual exh/ Magnaflow Cat/ crap mufflers/ 3500 Intake manifold/ 65mm TB
TGP steering Rack/ 34mm Sway Bar/Vert STB/ KYB GR2's
'08 Chevy Trailblazer SWB 1LT "Smart Package"- LH6 5.3L V8/4L60e, A4WD
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i didnt mean anything mean. i just figured if you put the time and money into something you'd make it look good the whole way around. it is funny when a chump gets beat something that looks $500, especialy if its a imort tuner car. makes your car like a super sleeper. you did a great job, better than i probably will. so what is the setup in there anyways?If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.
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Originally posted by RebelGTlifting the rear wheel in a turn is not a sign of bad suspension, its showing good weight transfer to the appropiate wheels, GRM did a nice write up on this a couple issues back on setting up FWD cars for racing.
I'm not saying this is right, I just know it works for my car.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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$500? Heck, I only paid $150 for the carI know you didn't mean anything by it..don't worry about it.
The engine is a 3.1/3.4/3400 hybrid. The short block is a ?91 3.1 block bored to 3.625?, with a ?99 3100 crank, modified 327 rods, and Venolia forged pistons @9.4:1 CR. Rings are Hastings moly-coated high tensile iron from a Holden V6 race application. The rotating assembly has been balanced. The cam is a PAW grind, very close in specs to the H260. Heads are mildly ported ?99 3100 piece with gen2 pushrod guide plates, gen1 rocker studs, and Comp 1.6 roller tip rockers. Intakes are port-matched 3400 units, with the plenum ported out to match the 65mm TB and adapter plate. Headers are custom equal-length, 1-5/8?x26? primaries, 2-1/2? collectors. ECU is Haltech E6GM. Flywheel is 8lb. Fidanza aluminum. Clutch is currently Perfection HD unit, soon to be replaced with ClutchNet 6-puck.
I built the engine to be supercharged, so after the break-in period it will receive some boost via an M90 form a T-Bird. The alternator has been re-located to where the AC compressor used to reside to make room for the SC above the rear valve cover.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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sweet!
how do the cylinder walls look? are they still an acceptable thickness? i always figured boring the 3.1's out that far would be risky, let us know how that overbore works out. i have the same block, and since there isnt much replacement for displacment, i'd be willing to go the same route. that should be a monster without boost, that SC gonna make a hairy fwd.If you aren't friends with a liar, you aren't friends with anyone.
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I thrashed this same block at a 3.622" bore for three years with iron heads, DOHC pistons, and roughly a 10:1 CR with no problems. Before we bored it the first time, we checked the block for core shift, and they were all pretty much dead on. According to the specs, the nominal wall thickness was 4.5mm, so they should be around 3mm thinck now. I have never sonic checked them to see, however. I figure if it is going to fail, the boost will do it. I have a spare 3400 short block waiting as a spare just in case. I plan to hit 300WHP or blow it up trying. With the LSD, and a modified Getrag jackshaft, I am hoping to quell some of the torque steer inherent with a FWD with this much power. We shall see how well it works.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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I double checked this morning, it was in that issue, and I was correct. They even high light the lifting of the inside rear wheel on the cover shot of the article. They said that when the rear wheel is lifted it shows maximum weight distribution to the proper wheels and that the car is not in a state of understeer.
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Originally posted by Kyles93Z34The X-11 kinda looks like a cavalier hatchback i think. Are they baiscally the same thing? Thx
Kyle
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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Here are a couple shots of the headers installed my old iron-head engine. I don't think I have any with the headers unwrapped. I have some better pics on my home computer.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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