Bringing a 95 Grand Am SE back to life

[manbearpig]

So I joined here a couple years ago and kind of forgot, but I've got an old Grand Am I tore down and am now in the process of rebuilding.

[bszopi]

Awesome! This would be a great place to document it.

[manbearpig]

Awesome! This would be a great place to document it.

Thanks! I was wondering if there was a thread somewhere on here that explained the changes that happened on the 95 engines? I'm pretty sure I have the early design and want to make sure I have all of the correct parts for it.

The body is in pretty good shape for being its age, and living in St. Louis that whole time too. I did have to cut the firewall out... I have another I cut out of a junkyard car that I need to weld in. The passenger side plate that holds the rack was all rusted out, a lot of the firewall was missing at the pinch weld. I'm guessing the cowl clogged up and water was getting trapped down there. Weird place to rust out to me.

[bszopi]

You might take a look at the family tree: http://www.60degreev6.com/vb5/60V6FamilyTree

[manbearpig]

Hmm, unfortunately that's not very detailed... mine is a Gen III motor but it is the early design, I think the main difference is the pushrod guides and I don't have roller trunnions.

Anyway, can anyone tell me what the recommended lower intake manifold bolt kit is? I don't really want to have to do this again.

I am looking at Felpro ES72226.

[manbearpig]

Couple pictures from when I pulled the engine:




You can see the bright orange coolant stains all over the passenger side.

[SappySE107]

The only change from 94-95 and the 96 (this is all generally speaking because some 95 are full roller from what I have read), are the pushrod guideplates and rocker arms vs roller rockers and the notch in the head for the pedestal to sit. The metal gasket set is what you want. Use threadlocker (light or medium) on the lower intake bolts and use the latest revision of the torque specs. They are probably listed here and I know I have specs listed on wot-tech.com under articles.

[manbearpig]

The only change from 94-95 and the 96 (this is all generally speaking because some 95 are full roller from what I have read), are the pushrod guideplates and rocker arms vs roller rockers and the notch in the head for the pedestal to sit. The metal gasket set is what you want. Use threadlocker (light or medium) on the lower intake bolts and use the latest revision of the torque specs. They are probably listed here and I know I have specs listed on wot-tech.com under articles.

Thanks for the reply. I bought a full engine gasket set from Felpro that said it serviced the early and later design. The lower intake gaskets are hard plastic with silicone around each port.

I'm running into another problem with my cam gear. I put my new timing set on and the cam gear is hitting the thrust plate bolts... I can't seem to figure out why. Wish I hadn't thrown out the old timing set.

[SappySE107]

What timing set are you using?

[manbearpig]

What timing set are you using?

I'm using Melling 3385SC

Oh, and the engine gasket kit I bought is actually Sealed Power, for 1st design. I thought it was Felpro because it came in a Felpro box.I guess the newer design has pushrod guides on the gasket?

[SappySE107]

That should work. I am not a fan of any of the aftermarket chains but for a stock build it better be ok. Some gaskets have the guides on them but none of the metal sets do. You went cheap, so good luck.

[manbearpig]

That should work. I am not a fan of any of the aftermarket chains but for a stock build it better be ok. Some gaskets have the guides on them but none of the metal sets do. You went cheap, so good luck.

I went with the most expensive gasket set rockauto had... didn't know there was something better out there. As far as the timing set, GM seems to have discontinued the cam gear and the chain so I went aftermarket. I used GM parts on my L43 2.2L, but they haven't discontinued those.

Here's how the car sits now... need to deal with the rusted out firewall.





Cutting this out at the junkyard was fun, battery-powered sawzall FTW.


Kicking myself because I really should have cut it all the way to the driver's side.

[SappySE107]

I sell the gaskets and the timing sets on wot-tech.com. Sealed power costs more but all of the chains are the same. I have 10 chains here from all the companies and they are all the same. I still use OEM chains with Cloyes gears, which used to be OEM with the part number. As I said though, stock build shouldn't care as much. Just be careful installing the lower intake. Don't overtorque the bolts or it will fail quickly.

[manbearpig]

Great! I'll be buying the timing set you have next time I get paid. Maybe I can get this engine back together soon. I have the factory service manual and will be following torque specs and sequence exactly.

I'm thinking about the intake gasket kit you have too... this car might get 5000-7500 miles put on it per year, and just used for commuting/running errands when the weather isn't good. Won't be driven hard, just need it to work and preferably last a long time.

[manbearpig]

Ordered a timing set and intake manifold gasket kit from wot-tech.com... been trying to get my garage organized to make working on the car easier.

I've never welded sheet metal on a car before, anyone got any tips/tricks? I've watched plenty of videos... any suggestions on seam sealers (like should I get a weld-through seam sealer?) would be appreciated.