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What do you use to get your blocks and tranny cases so clean? Also what sort of paint are you using? They always turn out looking really nice.
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-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed 92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
The block was cleaned at the machine shop and then I used aircraft stripper to remove the remaining paint. I wanted it blasted but they didn't do that. As far as paint on that, Tyler bought some Eastwood Ceramic based red engine paint and I just applied that with a brush.
The trans I only used Gunk foaming cleaner and my power washer to get the case clean before building... I am still planning on going over that one more time with something then spraying it black. I typically use Duplicolor 500* engine paint.
All of the engine parts he powder coated so I didn't do any of that.
There is still a pile of parts on the other table... I THINK they are the old clutches only... LOL
I did have one spring sitting there when I was ready to do the bottom cover and I realized I forgot to put it in the dome that is on the back of the trans case for that band... Whoops... LOL three bolts away though so nothing major.
No not really... the plate has one alignment collar on it as well as some filters that stick through and hold it in place on the channel plate and then I just lay the gasket on top... Obviously with my awesome stand I have the valve body is 100% horizontal when I'm installing it so I can easily place the layers without them moving.
If your vertical when doing it or upside down try using trans assembly lube, that stuff is tacky and works well at securing things where you need them and will dissolve in ATF.
The last progress from this build... Tyler was over this last weekend and helped get everything into place... Now just the small details... lol yeah not very small.
Had to pull the trans apart again due to the Diff housing being wrong and I had to weld up old holes and drill new oil holes. The previous rebuilder swapped out the bad old 95 roller clutch for the better revised 96-99 version but didn't swap the diff housing with it... that worked out for the LSD because Tyler ordered one for a 95 and it fit.
yummm trans lube
95 on the right and the 96 that I need to copy on the left
different style roller bearings, 96 on left and 95 on right.
Info about it
welded up old holes
all back together and yeah I painted it industrial gray... LOL
How we left it after Sat
Headers were NOT easy to get in... They are VERY tight and I think would benefit from the crossover being re-positioned, or swapped from the ball type joint to a more precise V-band flange. It was almost impossible to start all the bolts with the two connected together. They also lay right against one of the transmission pistons on the back of the trans, I'm guessing initial fitment of these were designed around the 3-speed or the 5-speed trans and not the 4t60e... Would you like photos of this WOT-Tech to maybe make a modification to clear this part for future headers?
Worked on it a bit last night, Only things changed is I installed the PS pump, bolted the TC to the flywheel, installed the starter and evaluated a few line clearance issues... Changing the oiling to the SC, I need to tweak the oil cooler outlet some as well since it aims right at the AC delete pulley.
Ordered heater core lines yesterday as well, Amy may be picking them up today and then I can install the rest of that setup and fill it with coolant to check for leaks before I can't get to those parts anymore... LOL My biggest concern is the lower intake pipe outlet, I hate that thing and it always seems to leak if you just look at it wrong so I want to make sure it's in there right before I have line after line blocking it.
Oh, and as far as the ball joints leaking, I actually forgot to put the springs on Alan's set and they didn't leak one bit. The trick is to make the headers so when they bolt together, they put pressure on the joint. In fact, I almost made them TOO tight and had a little trouble getting the front header in once the rear was bolted up, so you may want to loosely bolt the rear in, then get the front lined up, then tq them both down after the ball joint has made contact.
This is the exact issue I had. And he did test fit these to a 3-speed car so the clearance issues on the 4t60e were unknown at the time.
I guess time will tell. If there is too much trouble I sure know to ask here.
That is if I can take care of my cars rust and get a 3400. Time...........
95 Beretta 3100 with 3400 intakes and TCE TB
High flow cat and a Magnaflow muffler
Grand Prix trans with 3.33FDR
Had to remove the fans and nudge them further to the right, Oil outlet interfered... BUT I test fit the SC to see how it all lines up and everything looks good.
Damn is it close to the headers though.
Hitting the fan and still not 100% in place.
All better! just gotta put the fans back in.
SC inlet vs my Legacy turbo inlet... I guess it pays to have the compressor wheel spin faster they can be smaller.
Coolant hose routing... VERY close all around, I think someday tyler should custom make a outlet for his engine that sits a bit further back to give him more room to make the bend.
I still wonder how the hell all this stuff is going to fit under the hood... LOL
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