Roberts 89 GT/U build 3400/3500 WOT-Parts

[robert 1980]

Yeah everything rattles really well inside the car.But i don't have wheel hop anymore.Guess you take the good with the bad.Yeah jon is now beretta master.lol

[bob442]

its probably doesnt have wheel hop because the power is there now lol
just dont get caught doing this now

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRQUztnhfvE

[robert 1980]

The wheelhop was gone when i did my swaybar bushings with enegry and the lower dogbone.
With a stock 3400 just a clean spin.=) The only burnouts will be at the strip on slicks.lol
Funny video=)

[onefastV6]

Cam sounds good, glad you got to use it in your car.
Makes me wonder how the MPG/torque cam will sound/run in my 3500 swap.

[geldartb]

Yeah everything rattles really well inside the car.But i don't have wheel hop anymore.Guess you take the good with the bad.Yeah jon is now beretta master.lol

you get use to it after awhile. when i first did the front trans mount on my car to the solid one it vibrated so much but then after a bit i didn't even notice it anymore then i did the side motor mount and while the in car vibrations didn't change i get something vibrating under the hood.

[3400-95-Modified]

None of my mounts are fully solid except for the dog bone, the upper is only an insert and the drivers side I filled with poly just like robert did on his two passenger side mounts, I did notice some more vibration but not much really... I get more from my tires and I think its from my rims being shit or not balancing good, they seem fine RIGHT after I get them balanced but then they always seem to drift so I get a vibration at 75mph and its just annoying. I do notice that with the more firm mounts the lurch of the lope is transfered to the body and makes the whole car move... LOL

[robert 1980]

Yeah thanks phil i think it sounds good too.Man this car is fun to drive i wish there was more time before winter.

[Z26-T]

Great build! Was fun to watch the progress. Slow for you, but fast in comparison to others (especially mine)... Now for just curiosity sake. What's the benefit of doing a hybrid 3400 instead of just a 3500 swap with the Wot-tech parts?

I was also curious to what the fuel lines/heater core lines were off of (and if you had a picture of how the heater core lines look installed in the vehicle). I really like how you routed those.

[beastberetta]

i mean i did the full 3500 swap in mine, i didnt want to hybrid my car. i did the 3500 for the stronger bottom end over the 3400.

what would be the difference in cost would be over doing the full 3500 swap...you still have to buy head gaskets, prolly at least new head bolts, and lim gasket. what would the cost difference be? and obviously the time. all i had to do for my 3500 swap was grind down a boss pulley to fit the upper motor mount. ohh and file down the "custom made" crank trigger from milzy since wottech was out of the crank trigger when i did my motor. i had to take down close to a 1/4" to make it fit over the u bracket for the lower motor mount.

but like z26-t what was the benefit? i forgot jon told me somethings i just dont for the life of me remember right now...

[alpinestar10]

I was also curious to what the fuel lines/heater core lines were off of (and if you had a picture of how the heater core lines look installed in the vehicle). I really like how you routed those.

z26-t the lines were off a newer beretta 94-96 same as the heater core tower line, They were all off the same car the 94 style heater core line does not have the throttle body coolant ports that people normally block off with hose and clamps, If you want i can grab you the same setup i got jon

[3400-95-Modified]

I have yet to see real proof that the 3400 can't handle as much power as the 3500 can bottom end wise... I also found out that stock 3400 rods are forged... and 3500 ones are not... granted yes you get the forged crank, but I know of one turbo 3500 where he broke that crank under boost.

Also with just about everything fitting the 3400 block mount wise in a Beretta without modification or fabrication, then its a better choice in my opinion... I'm also able to keep my AC by using the 3400 block.

For my application going from 9.5 to 9.2 compression wasn't a bad thing either since I am spraying quite a bit... I don't think the 9.8 would have blown, but being slightly lower compression I do have the buffer to go with a higher shot in the future.

And then simply not having an external crank trigger to worry about is a little piece of mind for me... And I was able to re-use one of my old 3100 oil pans so I could keep my low oil sensor hooked up and not have to modify anything on my harness.

It's personal preference though, If you want to add those additional costs to make a 3500 fit in your car then go with it, but if you want more of a direct swap then using a 3400 definitely makes that possible, and it all depends on what your final plans are for the car.

[ForcedFirebird]

I have yet to see real proof that the 3400 can't handle as much power as the 3500 can bottom end wise... I also found out that stock 3400 rods are forged... and 3500 ones are not... granted yes you get the forged crank, but I know of one turbo 3500 where he broke that crank under boost.

Also with just about everything fitting the 3400 block mount wise in a Beretta without modification or fabrication, then its a better choice in my opinion... I'm also able to keep my AC by using the 3400 block.

For my application going from 9.5 to 9.2 compression wasn't a bad thing either since I am spraying quite a bit... I don't think the 9.8 would have blown, but being slightly lower compression I do have the buffer to go with a higher shot in the future.

And then simply not having an external crank trigger to worry about is a little piece of mind for me... And I was able to re-use one of my old 3100 oil pans so I could keep my low oil sensor hooked up and not have to modify anything on my harness.

It's personal preference though, If you want to add those additional costs to make a 3500 fit in your car then go with it, but if you want more of a direct swap then using a 3400 definitely makes that possible, and it all depends on what your final plans are for the car.

3500 rods are snapped powder forged just like most modern engines. There are 2 cranks, one is steel and the other is cast. Links to the crank breaking?

[3400-95-Modified]

I don't think he ever posted it, It was Rodney from up in Canada, I guess you could PM him about it his sn is 3400beretta on Bnet, not sure if he has an account here, I heard he broke the couter weight off of it, but without seeing pics it's a unknown really. I just haven't seen anyone break a 3400 bottom end either so I don't see the weak link in it yet, Obviously pistons are a weak link but they arent any different than whats in the 3500 to my knowledge.

I wasnt aware that the 3500 rods were powder forged, my bad.

[alpinestar10]

3500 rods are snapped powder forged just like most modern engines. There are 2 cranks, one is steel and the other is cast. Links to the crank breaking?

Are you positive there is in fact a cast iron crank?? Mine has the numbers 5922 on it and the parting lines appear to be of a forged crank its not skinny like a cast crank would have and its thick

[ForcedFirebird]

Are you positive there is in fact a cast iron crank?? Mine has the numbers 5922 on it and the parting lines appear to be of a forged crank its not skinny like a cast crank would have and its thick

This has been discussed many times. There's 2 different GM part numbers and a considerable weight difference between the two.