96 Beretta Project

[3400-95-Modified]

It was already clean so it wasn't that much work granted yes you need to completely strip the block to do it but during a build like this it's one of the easy parts lol.

[Heartbeat1991]

It was already clean so it wasn't that much work granted yes you need to completely strip the block to do it but during a build like this it's one of the easy parts lol.

You didn't grind it down at all?

[3400-95-Modified]

Grind what down? I deburred the drain holes but you don't have to mess with any other part of the surface.

[3400-95-Modified]

Did a bunch of measuring last night on the crank, and mains as well as piston bores and pistons. On the mains I came up with .0025 clearance with my measuring tools and the plastigauge says .003 so I'm fine with that. Rather be just a bit loose with what I plan to do with this engine.



Hope to measure and spec the rod bearings and journals tonight but we'll see... Parents house is leaking from ice dams so from 2:30 till 6:00 yesterday I was on a ladder with a hammer and chisel making an ice sculpture... gotta go back today and get rid of as much as possible.

[Heartbeat1991]

Grind what down? I deburred the drain holes but you don't have to mess with any other part of the surface.

From what I have seen, you're supposed to grind the whole area relatively smooth.

[3400-95-Modified]

I guess it depends on how you interpret their surface prep directions... It says "Surface to be painted should be dry and free from dirt, wax, grease, rust and oil. Remove all grease and oil by washing surface with mineral spirits. Wipe or scrape off all loose dirt, rust or scales." Says nothing about grinding any area smooth... Most people de-burr area's to open up the drain holes as well as remove dams that are created from the casting process... I did that on the block already and then had it jet washed and honed and decked. All I did prior to this painting was spray and wipe down all the areas with Grease and Wax Remover paint prep.

[3400-95-Modified]

So I opened this can of worms in the chat box but explain these clearance issues to me....

3500 Specs pulled from 2005 Restore Manual... Same specs on this site as well.

Connecting Rod Bearing Clearance
0.18-0.062 mm
0.0007-0.017 in

This one is easy... Looks like they left out a Zero on the MAX piston production clearance spec
Piston to Bore Clearance - production
-0.029 to +0.029 mm
-0.0011 to +0.011 in


I'm wondering how many more tolerances are wrong...

3100 spec is .0007 to .0024 so I'm guessing they left a zero off the first mm spec and then totally f-ed up the conversion on the max of that. I wonder what a rod would sound like with 17 thou of clearance...

[3400-95-Modified]

Got some more time to work on it last night... During rough assembly I noticed the main studs did not all sit at the same height so I had to get a M11x1.5 tap and clean up the threads on all of the main holes. Once I got that done and all cleaned up I was able to move on to more major assembly.

Got a rotating assembly now with the mains torqued down. Just need to torque all the rods and then get the windage tray and oil pump on... Then onto cam install and hopefully I'll have my heads by then so I can measure the pushrod length. Slow and steady... LOL

Also got conformation from Jeff at EP that he is shipping my LSD 4t60e-HD diff this Sat, So I'll have all the parts for that so I can start to figure out what else needs to change.

[3400-95-Modified]

Got the new LSD 4t60e-HD... Slight upgrade in size

They LOOK similar from the top....


Not so much anymore.




Should be getting the heads back soon... Also the DRTC hits on the two raised area's from the Front Main bolt holes... So I need to tape everything off to keep the shit out seeing how it's assembled, and clearance that area. Luckily I was able to clearance the galley plugs by just removing them and hitting a grinding wheel and re-installing them. I guess better I found it now and didn't take it apart to see some self clearancing going on.

[3400-95-Modified]

As many know I take apart everything to look it over... so here is the side by side comparison of the HD diff spiders and pin and the stock non HD stuff...

[geldartb]

at least i'm not the only one to take everything apart i get to look it over. that keyboard though, i can't type on anything non-mechanical anymore

[3400-95-Modified]

So has anyone actually tried the longer ARP main bolts with a windage tray? Because um, call me crazy but the pan wont fit now, it hits the tray.

The double washers under the bolts as well as the taller nut that the tray is sitting on raises its position at least .25" further away from the mains closer to the pan. The height of the double washers is .250 so I can only assume the nut is the same .400 height as the old bolts had, SO if there was enough thread on the studs to run with no washer and the nut had a collar built in it would probably be the same height but there is no way this will work without cutting up and bending the whole front section of the windage tray to clear the oil pan. I'm tempted to just run the factory hardware to avoid that headache.

[3400-95-Modified]

Ok so here are some photos of the height differences so you can see what I'm talking about.



How you install the kit for the windage tray.


You can see where I hammered one part of the tray to see if that was the only spot hitting... After that the front area hit.


Spots the windage tray is hitting... And it's about a 1/4" away from the block when it hits, so it's not just a tiny bit.

[neophile_17]

I ordered ARP studs and then went back to new factory hardware. I think you tried harder than I did as I was pressed for time. I asked a similar question and someone- maybe ericjon262 abandoned the windage tray.

Love the build! Would like to see it at the track when you get there.

Sam

[Heartbeat1991]

Did you have to clearance the timing cover for that double roller?