Aftermarket Plug wires

[pocket-rocket]

To prevent electro-magnetic noise and interferance from screwing up what the ECM is doing. Also to keep it so you hear your radio station, and not your engine.

[IRRebel5150]

Ditto,

Resistance is natural in any conductor, even silver and gold which is Much lower than copper to begin with, with nearly zero capacitance. Remind yurself that the function of Plug Wires is merely to conduct power to the Spark Plug so It can create a spark to ignite a cylinder for the power stroke. Resistance matters little, or not at all if the signal and adequate power is reaching the plug to do it's job reliably at the right time.

The resistance in the wire limits the amount of Electrical Interference emitted from the wire and the power travels through it, mind you, a VERY high voltage. Electrical Interference carries with it somewhat of a Radio Frequency Interference inherently, which can, and will, interfere with other electronics, such as your radio or worse, your ECM/PCM.

Bottom line, unless, for whatever reason, your spark plugs are not getting enough power to do their job reliably, which is highly unlikely, don't worry about resistance. Just get a good set of wires, install them properly, and against Factory GM setup, I highly recommend Isolating the wires from each other and from the Chassis/engine block. Why GM would route those things through Split Loom tubing, twisting over and under each other clear around the engine compartment is beyond me. Cross firing and shorting to direct ground seem to me to be exactly what is invited in that setup. Even though GM found it necessary, for whatever reason, to have 2 plugs fire every time only 1 is needed to. Kinda makes me miss the Distributor when you think about it.

I would, and did personally, reroute my wires completely separated through both looms you can get at Speed shops and auto parts stores, some creative mounting, and used quality iridium plugs, and have yet to record a misfire on the laptop or seat of the pants. No longer are the wires crammed together inviting bleed into another wire or ground being drug over both cylinder heads, but they are also far removed from all the moving parts on the passenegr side of the car which was my initial rationale for doing it to begin with. ( Why GM would come up with a design, and then follow through and actually build it, to put everything possible on the same end of the engine is beyond me.

Especially given that in this case, that particular end of the engine has more moving parts rotating at very high speed than any two other cars manufactured at that time! POssibly even more than any two manufactured still. Maybe it was just the challenge of being able to do it, I dunno)

I have the early DOHC with the CoilPack on the front of the block, which is another common-sense-boggling-design issue I plan on correcting, but until then, this is the best I have come up with thus far.

Bottom line, get good plugs, good wires, then apply common sense. Spending $175 on Plug wires to me sounds a bit like prescribing Viagra to my 95 year old Grandpa. If it's standing up on it's own, and doing what it it's supposed to do, why spend the money? $175 to spend on MY car would be much better spent elsewhere, like saving for a head porting or MemCal reprogram where you can truly realize a difference. these so-called "hot" Ignitions are only needed if the stock setup cannot perform the job. Every ignition GM has built, even since the old HEI days, is far more than adequate to get the job done.

Ray

[Anonymous]

My plugs costed .99$ each at Advanced Auto

And they work just fine!

[pocket-rocket]

Spending $175 on Plug wires to me sounds a bit like prescribing Viagra to my 95 year old Grandpa. If it's standing up on it's own, and doing what it it's supposed to do, why spend the money?

LMFAO!!! Well I was fortunate enough to have the wires you are talking about on the car before I bought it, so it was an added bon[e]us, lmao!