Yay! Boost!

[donk_316]

I Don't want a crate. Hell, I don't want it to run. My car is Budget Performance. I have a free garrett and free eaton. Now I'm going to start getting parts for both, and mock them up in turn on the dummy engine. I bet I can boost for under a hundred dollars, and boost reliably and well for under 250.
Or not. We'll see in time.

There is a guy on fiero.nl who is a cheap ass and a hackmaster.

He has blown 3 dohcs and is currently hacking a turbo onto his 4th.

Thats what happens with free parts and a cheap attitude.

Goto my cardomain to see what the hell a real turbo build needs for parts.

www.cardomain.com/id/donk_316 $19,000 cdn and counting invested into that money pit.

[Lyle's GTP]

I agree, if you think that you can build a blow LQ1 on a "budget". I think that you will be having alot of problems trying to keep your budget. This ain't some old 350.

But good luck anyway.

Lyle

[Husky]

Don't want to Hijack Tim's thread, so I'll post it in mine.

Expect to spend $500 to $1000 on a turbo. If you go with a GT series, it will be $1000-$1500.

Okay... That's good. I got my T03 for $25.

An E-bay intercooler can be had for $300 or so. Try to fit the largest that will possibly fit. It may result in a bit more lag, but will have a lower pressure drop and hopefully also better efficiency. (mine was about $500 and required a custom radiator support)

Wow. I didn't know they were that much. I got mine for $20.

A new WG and BOV will cost about $450. Used 1G DSM bov's go for about $20 at junkyards. An internal wastegate is a possibility, but costs about the same as an external.

Is there any particular kind you need to use? The T03 has an internal wastegate on the hot side, I got the actuator with it. Also, for BOV, do DSM BOVs work venting to the atmosphere? Or do you need to plumb it back into the intake?

FMU's are about $100-$200 new.

What's an FMU? Something to do with fuel delivery?

New air filter, all piping, gauges, vacuum hoses, T's, flanges, silicone connectors, and remaining parts can easily add another $1000.

Can I just use my K&N Cone? Also, will the mechanical guages(boost, fuel PSI) I got at the junkyard work if I plumb/wire them right? That'd save some cash. That leaves piping(no way to get cheap there, Im gonna have to suck it up), Vacuum hoses(I've got a mile of hard vacuum line leftover from an other project, I'll use it since It's brand new), Silicone Connectors I guess I'm just gonna have to buy, no way to make my own there.

I'd estimate I'm sitting at about 65 now, with ALL the parts I've bought for this setup, and I need an FMU, Piping, Crossover, Silicone Connectors, T's, Injectors, and a cutout. So I was wrong about boosting for a hundred, but I'm not doing TOO bad for $ yet. And I've got a spare LQ1 now, so I can toy around with supercharging, and if I blow the motor because I was being stupid, I can just drop it in.

[timg]

I should have added that with used parts, you can go turbo for significantly less $$.

The DSM BOV's vent to the atmosphere. On a MAF car, you must run them before the MAF. On a MAP car, no changes are needed. Since they're common and used, they're dirt cheap.

FMU's are a mechanical way of raising fuel pressure to compensate for boost. They're used on many SC and turbo kits from major manufacturers. I have one for sale if you're interested that I used on my Monte. You won't need larger injectors with a FMU.

Your K&N cone and mechanical gauges should work.

In place of silicone connectors, some rubber hose from a parts store will work for many of the connections. This will save roughly $20 per connection.

Tim

A new WG and BOV will cost about $450. Used 1G DSM bov's go for about $20 at junkyards. An internal wastegate is a possibility, but costs about the same as an external.

Is there any particular kind you need to use? The T03 has an internal wastegate on the hot side, I got the actuator with it. Also, for BOV, do DSM BOVs work venting to the atmosphere? Or do you need to plumb it back into the intake?

FMU's are about $100-$200 new.

What's an FMU? Something to do with fuel delivery?

New air filter, all piping, gauges, vacuum hoses, T's, flanges, silicone connectors, and remaining parts can easily add another $1000.

Can I just use my K&N Cone? Also, will the mechanical guages(boost, fuel PSI) I got at the junkyard work if I plumb/wire them right? That'd save some cash. That leaves piping(no way to get cheap there, Im gonna have to suck it up), Vacuum hoses(I've got a mile of hard vacuum line leftover from an other project, I'll use it since It's brand new), Silicone Connectors I guess I'm just gonna have to buy, no way to make my own there.

I'd estimate I'm sitting at about 65 now, with ALL the parts I've bought for this setup, and I need an FMU, Piping, Crossover, Silicone Connectors, T's, Injectors, and a cutout. So I was wrong about boosting for a hundred, but I'm not doing TOO bad for $ yet. And I've got a spare LQ1 now, so I can toy around with supercharging, and if I blow the motor because I was being stupid, I can just drop it in.

[RacerX11]

The DSM BOV's vent to the atmosphere. On a MAF car, you must run them before the MAF. On a MAP car, no changes are needed. Since they're common and used, they're dirt cheap.

DSM bypass valves vent back into the intake stock. You CAN vent it to atmosphere, but I would not recommend it. The valve is open slightly under idle/vacuum conditions, and will suck in un-filtered air. It isn't that hard to plumb it correctly into the intake.

Marty

[Husky]

I should have added that with used parts, you can go turbo for significantly less $$.
The DSM BOV's vent to the atmosphere. On a MAF car, you must run them before the MAF. On a MAP car, no changes are needed. Since they're common and used, they're dirt cheap.

FMU's are a mechanical way of raising fuel pressure to compensate for boost. They're used on many SC and turbo kits from major manufacturers. I have one for sale if you're interested that I used on my Monte. You won't need larger injectors with a FMU.

So mount the MAF after the turbo, and the BOV between the turbo and MAF?

How much for the FMU?

[Mach10]

I believe he has 9(nine) 91-95 crate engines available. really reallt REALLY good folks to deal with.

Dude.

Seriously.

Come on.

CONTACT INFO... WTF is wrong with you!??!

[timg]

MAF after the turbo and BOV between the turbo and MAF.

My DSM BOV seems to let air out of the intake at idle- not draw air in (the Tial on my S2000 does the same). I think turbo size will have a large effect here. They can definitely be plumbed back into the intake before the turbo. If you do that, then you can run the MAF before the turbo.

$60 shipped for the FMU.

Tim

[Husky]

MAF after the turbo and BOV between the turbo and MAF.

My DSM BOV seems to let air out of the intake at idle- not draw air in (the Tial on my S2000 does the same). I think turbo size will have a large effect here. They can definitely be plumbed back into the intake before the turbo. If you do that, then you can run the MAF before the turbo.

$60 shipped for the FMU.

Tim

Alright, thanks man. Will the MAF still get an accurate reading if it's after the turbo?

[turbodTDCfiero]

For the record Ive blown FOUR engines, not three, but that comes with the territory when you are picking up j/y engines and tossing them in untouched, then running them 7k all day every day. 2 bottom end failures, one piston exploded at 7k, and I torched one with the turbo racing lean, with a bad WG, programming glitch and on 87 octane. Fun times

Ignore the negative guys, theres a handful of people who SWEAR you have to spend ten thousand dollars on a turbo setup, its just not true. Those of us who do stuff without going bankrupt seem to piss them off.

In not a cheap ass, I just dont wanna blow 20 grand on an engine setup unless im building a dragster engine or something, Ive got about $1200 into my install and turbo, not counting the parts I put into rebuiling the latest engine, thats everything to swap in a TDC into a Fiero, all the turbo parts and installation, AND the cost of the band saw I bought to make my piping.

you dont need to blow a grand on the turbo alone either. I picked up a full setup for $400 shipped, including turbo, IC, all flanges, BOV, WG dump pipe. It might be a little small on the hot side for my setup, im still looking into it, but at 6PSI its rediculously fast and I havent turned up the boost yet. If you want to go faster and have some fun doing it, it doesnt take a fortune.

Granted if you have all the money in the world and want to invest it in something you will never recover even half of it, you can buy top of the line everything and get a little more performance, but for bottom dollar, the diffrence isnt that much less.

Just dont let them get you down. It can be done, and it doesnt have to cost a fortune. If you are resourceful ingenutive (apparently AKA hackmaster) and creative, you should be able to install a turbo for under $200 in addition to the core parts. POWER to the cheap asses

Theres a guy at: www.Gmtuners.com that can do wonders with the DOHC computer. Im pretty sure he already has a program for the MAF and turbo. That would be preferable to a FMU as it can control timing and fuel delievery with programmable maps. usualy about $40 for a new memcal

The MAF will read properly after the turbo, you need to make sure that the BOV goes BEFORE the MAF as said, because if it goes in after, the ECM will not read the right amount of air being taken in because you will blow all that air it has measured out.

You seem to be doing great gathering up parts, some nice scores there. Do you have bigger injectors? The DOHC injectors are supposed to be about maxed out as is. 36lb 3.8SC injectors are reccomended. Im just going on what Ive been told here. Darth at gmtuners is a great resource on this.

...And before you go running your mouth off, you should look at my work, I had the techs at the GM dealership (allong with everyone else) baffled because they thought my TDC was stock (before I put the turbo on). Im working on cleaning up the turbo install to retrieve the stock appearance, but its tricky hiding disguising that much stuff as stock.

[Husky]

For the record Ive blown FOUR engines, not three, but that comes with the territory when you are picking up j/y engines and tossing them in untouched, then running them 7k all day every day. 2 bottom end failures, one piston exploded at 7k, and I torched one with the turbo racing lean, with a bad WG, programming glitch and on 87 octane. Fun times

Yeah, sounds like there were a lot of things working against you there.

Ignore the negative guys, theres a handful of people who SWEAR you have to spend ten thousand dollars on a turbo setup, its just not true. Those of us who do stuff without going bankrupt seem to piss them off.

I am ignoring them lol. And I'm not cheap, just going for performance on a tight tight budget. I make about 65 dollars a week on a good week, and most of my money goes to insuance and gas.

In not a cheap ass, I just dont wanna blow 20 grand on an engine setup unless im building a dragster engine or something, Ive got about $1200 into my install and turbo, not counting the parts I put into rebuiling the latest engine, thats everything to swap in a TDC into a Fiero, all the turbo parts and installation, AND the cost of the band saw I bought to make my piping.

Bandsaw? I might need one... I'm working with a jigsaw.

you dont need to blow a grand on the turbo alone either. I picked up a full setup for $400 shipped, including turbo, IC, all flanges, BOV, WG dump pipe. It might be a little small on the hot side for my setup, im still looking into it, but at 6PSI its rediculously fast and I havent turned up the boost yet. If you want to go faster and have some fun doing it, it doesnt take a fortune.

Junkyard T03 baby!

Granted if you have all the money in the world and want to invest it in something you will never recover even half of it, you can buy top of the line everything and get a little more performance, but for bottom dollar, the diffrence isnt that much less.

I don't need to put a top of the line ANYHTING in a ten year old car with 12x,xxx miles, and nasty body damage.

Just dont let them get you down. It can be done, and it doesnt have to cost a fortune. If you are resourceful ingenutive (apparently AKA hackmaster) and creative, you should be able to install a turbo for under $200 in addition to the core parts. POWER to the cheap asses

And poor people!

Theres a guy at: www.Gmtuners.com that can do wonders with the DOHC computer. Im pretty sure he already has a program for the MAF and turbo. That would be preferable to a FMU as it can control timing and fuel delievery with programmable maps. usualy about $40 for a new memcal

Contact info?

You seem to be doing great gathering up parts, some nice scores there. Do you have bigger injectors? The DOHC injectors are supposed to be about maxed out as is. 36lb 3.8SC injectors are reccomended. Im just going on what Ive been told here. Darth at gmtuners is a great resource on this.

Yeah. I'm making good finds. The yard here charge dirt for parts.

[Husky]

Mofucker. I ate a timing belt yesterday. Car got towed to my house. Engine's coming back out. Fucking piece of shit LQ1.

Okay, I still love my car. But I'm definitely fabbing up my custom crossover while the motor's out. Any advice for removing the exhaust manis?

[timg]

I won't argue. If you're a great fabricator and like JY parts, you can do things very, very cheaply. If you wait and search for deals, you can do it for under $2k with all new parts, including labor. Personally, I've gone cheap and DIY and prefer spending a bit extra $$ for high quality parts. Most of my welding cost a few cases of beer + the raw parts. With the right hookups and skills, things can be incredibly inexpensive and well built. For most, that isn't an option though.

Tim

[XzotikGT]

Id have to agree with tim. It wasnt that expensive to get it in and running. What is costing me is replaceing and redoing the stuff because I cheaped out on stuff I didnt think would matter.

You could do it cheaper than 2 grand, I did. But it is pretty tight. Maybe if you use junkyard parts, but I dont like the idea of my hot rod sittin on the side of the street smoking. So, if you go this route, be sure that al parts are in good working order.

[Husky]

Man... My car has ended up on the side of the road smoking with pure Pontiac stock parts. I'm not terribly concerned with reliability. I'd need a new motor to be reliable, and a new trans. I'm just having fun.




And yes, I honestly am having fun pulling my motor and putting a turbo in. It's fun because after all the times I've HAD to pull the motor to work on it, it's nice to be able to pull it because I WANT to.