what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc crank handle???

[sabotage]

I was wondering what kind of power the stock crank will handle with some work? Because if its not much over 420 hp im going to get a forged one from this placei found:

http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/newIndex.php

[34T]

RE: what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc crank handle??

Are there sources of forged cranks in the states? (Must be!)
Anyone know where?

and maybe a ballpark-ish price?
g

[Lyle's GTP]

Re: what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc crank handle??

I was wondering what kind of power the stock crank will handle with some work? Because if its not much over 420 hp im going to get a forged one from this placei found:
http://www.jbodyperformance.com/new/newIndex.php

Will their crank work for our cars? Do they have rod too?

Lyle

[bszopi]

RE: Re: what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc crank hand

Considering since pretty much every crank from 86 on is the same, anyone you find will work. And I definately wouldn't spend the $3k or whatever it is JBP wants for theirs. These things are pretty damn strong from the factory, and as long as they have oil to them, they'll handle whatever you put to them. Just as proof, there is a guy with a 3.4L Camaro with a turbo and nitrous pushing 370+hp and 430+tq on a stock bottom end.

[Guest]

THe stock crank can probably handle it.

However the J body is guaranteed to hold up.

You can probably chance it with a stocker. The J body peice will take anything you throw at it.

It depends on if you want that extra security or not.

if you can fit it into your budget, I say go for it.

[bszopi]

If you really want it, and you want something in the states, any company that does custom cranks (ie, Crower, etc...) will do a crank for you. But again, look to spend several grand for it. Unless you are build a serious street engine or a straight race engine, then it may be worth it. But if you are building an engine that you still plan on driving reliably on the street, a stock crank will hold up.

[34T]

Re: RE: Re: what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc crank

.......... and as long as they have oil to them, they'll handle whatever you put to them. ....

I think there is a lot to this statement. The pic I saw of the long, convoluted TDC oil pathway is .......well, LONG!
I think improving oil pressure will help ensure bearing life and bottom end life. Seems like in the past wk I have heard about 2 more spun rod bearings and that seems like a lousy coincidence. And suggests a need for a better oiling system.

I suggested a while ago here or elsewhere; I forget; that maybe the stock oil pump can be improved A LA the Z28 upgrade that was a standard item for the 350 SBC. For a whole $2.98 you replace the pressure relief spring in the stock pump with a Z28 spring and VOILA! you have 60psi instead of about 40. I wonder if there is a similar 'fix'or treatment for the 3.4 pump.

[34T]

RE: Re: RE: Re: what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc cr

By the way their listed price for a steel 84mm crank is $960US for anyone who is looking at it. Just fyi; I have never bought anything from them. They DO also list various rods for the 60V6.
Just check out the site.

[RacerX11]

RE: Re: RE: Re: what kind of power will the stock 3.4 tdc cr

I remember someone posting a while back there were issues with the JBP forged crank flexing, but never any more details than that. I have not heard of anyone using it and posting results. I have also not heard of anyone breaking a stock crank due to excessive power. You be the judge if you think it is necessary. IMO, the main caps and block will probably go before the crank will.

Marty

[smilinguy99]

Moldex Tool Co.
25229 W. Warren
Dearborn Heights, MI 48127
313-561-7676

No website. They build two cranks a day, ten per week.

$2100 USD
Any custom feature you want. Custom crank snout? OK. Destroked? OK. Wanna use the new larger crank pins like the 3500? OK. Or perhaps use the 1968+ SBC crank pin size for rod availability. Anything.
Take good care of it (keep it oiled and put a good damper on it) and you won't break it.
10 weeks wait.

sg99

[grandprixgtp_91]

well it doesnt matter what type of crank you put in, it is still only a 2 bolt main, we should look into a 4 bolt setup, then we can go from there, cuz those caps give out too.

Jake

[34T]

you're right, Jake; I am going to take my block in to my friendly local machinist along with a stock stud girdle from a recent honda engine (as an sample for him) to see what he thinks would be involved in making something like that.
If that is prohibitive (so far he hasn't been!) then I will ask about making splayed caps like are available for the SBC and others. Meant for 2 bolt blocks and maybe stronger than 4 bolt blocks when done.

And I STILL am going to pursue the improved oil pump/bypass spring issue; just gotta get the suspension and brakes finished first........

[Froggx]

I remember hearing someone (can't remember who) say that they spun a bearing because their stock oil pump was working a little too well and pumped all the oil into their heads, leaving their bearings to dry out and go round and round. It seems if that happened it might be a good idea to get a bigger pan.

Also I've heard it stated that the crank from a 2.8 is stronger than the crank from a 3.1/3.4, is there any truth to this?

[joey b]

the stroke for the 2.8 isn't as long if that is the reasoning behind it being stonger than the crank of the 3.1

[quaddriver]

There will always be concerns in the prd 660 block as it only has 2 oil galleries.

the 'bowtie' block you can get from GMPP is the fix you require if you are gonna build serious hp (in fact, most racing classes where sub10's (even sub 12's now) are requiring 'hardened parts' in the drivetrain to reduce the chance of on track explosion) as it has 3 galleries for a true 'priority main' setup and improved bearing saddles.

If you absolutely insist on using a stock block, groove the saddle for the mains in the direction of rotation and use the performance bearings with the long slot, this will get what little oil there is into the bearing and hence crank.

remember, at high rpm centrifugal force actually sucks oil away from the mains into the rods and if you have enuf rod clearance, you can overwhelm what is pumped.

A solution, as always, is to NOT increase pressure, but rather increase flow. hivol, stock pressure is the best for anything using a wet sump and <7000 rpm. (assuming EFI/DIS and not a distributor) and if you can make a custom motor mount, modify the pan to accept windage