Something happened to my last post.....I was saying that even the bow tie block has rough bore of 3.504 and a max bore of 3.582 with a min finish bore of 3.525, or in other words just under .060 and this is into uniform sleeves, not variable iron.....perhaps someone saw .060 and figured that was for the radius and not diameter?
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Originally posted by butchvillei'm going to control boost with a sionoid valve an let a computer control it with propane for fuel i should be ok as to octane it's about 112 if i remember right an the cooling effect should help also i did some more thinking { could be dangerous} an i think the way to go maybe the northstar pistons 6.0 rods would push them out the top .076 i could take that off with a belt sander lol just a shade over a 1/16 inch not a problem i got a lathe to cut them an being dished looks like i got enought metal to not have ring problem. pics of the boat i'll post when i get my camara back a friends got it right now doing some ebay stuff
Umm... I guess it's pretty obvious that you're joking now...Current:
\'87 Fiero GT: 12.86@106 - too dam many valves; ran 12.94 @ 112 on new engine, then broke a CV joint
\'88 Fiero Formula: slow and attention getting; LZ8 followed by LLT power forthcoming
\'88 BMW 325iX: The penultimate driving machine awaiting a heart transplant
Gone, mostly forgotten:
\'90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: slow but invisible
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Originally posted by sappyse107Well, it depends on who you listen to. Some say the higher the ratio, the better. I prefer the 1.72-1.75:1 ratio as ideal theory...probably because that makes our stock ratio perfect. Either way, you will want to research this and come to your own conclusion.
I don't agree with that... I've NEVER seen a good explanation of why some people like that number (other than that 327 Chevies and TDC 3.4's have it), but I've seen LOTS of information about why longer rods are better.
I'm wondering if you have seen any good explanation, grounded in solid physics, of why the 1.75 is best, 'cause I'd like to see it, too.Current:
\'87 Fiero GT: 12.86@106 - too dam many valves; ran 12.94 @ 112 on new engine, then broke a CV joint
\'88 Fiero Formula: slow and attention getting; LZ8 followed by LLT power forthcoming
\'88 BMW 325iX: The penultimate driving machine awaiting a heart transplant
Gone, mostly forgotten:
\'90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: slow but invisible
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Please do.
I might buy 1.75 as the best compromise or rod length vs recip weight in terms of crank stress... but only if I see someone work some pretty bodacious math in support of that case.
My opinion is that the reduction in piston and cylinder wall major and minor stresses from the reduction in rod angle is a darn good reason to go with the longest rods you can pack into your engine. And detonation resistance...Current:
\'87 Fiero GT: 12.86@106 - too dam many valves; ran 12.94 @ 112 on new engine, then broke a CV joint
\'88 Fiero Formula: slow and attention getting; LZ8 followed by LLT power forthcoming
\'88 BMW 325iX: The penultimate driving machine awaiting a heart transplant
Gone, mostly forgotten:
\'90 Pontiac 6000 SE AWD: slow but invisible
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