Maybe you should call them and see what the know before you assume something.
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Yah I will when it comes time for it.
And as much as I talk about my new motor, I haven't started yet and don't plan to until summertime. I am just building it on paper so to say. Its the stuff I will be using, come time for it. And when it comes time to build it, I am going to look deeper into the cams. I was just hoping someone else would be first.
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Originally posted by napatigerWhere could one get better:
1) springs
2) forged pistons
3) valves
4) lifters = Ben, 300 a set
please include web site and part numbers
btw 95 MC Z34
Thanks
Again, providing you give them all the dimensions, anywhere can make you forged alum pistons. But you pay for it. I don't think anyone has a part number for a forged alum piston made specifically for the 3.4L TDC. I'll be using Wiseco.
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goatman (or anyone for that matter) did you consider a forged crank? Mostly I am wondering where to get one for the dohc motor. If you found a source could you post it?
My understanding is that a FEW (whatever that means?!?!) of the 92-ish 3.4's got forged cranks but that is reading unqualified internet stuff so the value of that is questionable. Does anyone know if that is true? And then what year etc to find them in?
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Stock 3.4's came with cast cranks, forged rods, and cast pistons. No stock 60degreeV6 came with forged cranks, until the 3500/3900.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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hmmmm I think most cranks are cast, unless you get into specific hi perf stuff from the mfr. Rods are all forged. Pistons of course are almost all cast alum except for the few hi perf applications again. I'm talking stock from the mfr here, of course.
H beam or I beam rods?
I like the idea of the H beam; seems to make a lot of sense, but I am getting feedback (this past yr) from stock car racers (who hit 8K+ rpm lots!....) that the H beam isn't the best choice for hi rpm. And I am getting comments on Eagle (who seemed to be among the first with the H beam, too.) Too bad; that was the choice I was heading for too.
Might be worth asking around before you put out your money. I am also hoping for 7500 reliable rpm or more but absolute iron clad reliability is the key for me; so what if it will cost another $500 or $1000; I am not rebuilding that motor to save money......
Just want to pass along some findings and perceptions. I have been building engines (for myself LOL) for 30+ yrs and that is going to be a fave part of this project. I will be checking it out too, but I am looking into Crower as well. Asking around is free!!
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I have been building, and helping firends, build motors(mainly SBC's) for about 5 years now, and we have never run into an issue with Eagle rods or cranks. The highest one of our SBCs is running is 7200rpm. I don't think that I will run into a problem with running the Eagle Products up to 8,000rpm. They said they'll still hold their warrenty up to 10,000 rpm, but beyond that they void it.
What kind of intake manifold will you be using? Becuz 7500 on the stock 91-95s is going to be very dificult, and I doubt you'll make much power past 7. I would suggest a custom manifold, or at least 96-97 intakes.
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If you hydrolock your new engine with the H-beam rods, they are gonna bend, too. The rods weren't the problem....the water in the cylinder were.
Marty'99 Z-28 - Weekend Driver
'98 Dodge Neon - Winter Beater
'84 X-11 - Time and Money Pit
'88 Fiero Formula - Bone stock for now
Quote of the week:Originally posted by AaronThis is why I don't build crappy headers. I'm not sure, I don't know too much about welding.
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My only point about water is that it is deadly if it gets sucked in. And it happens pretty much instantly. You either avoid the puddles, crawl thru them or don't drive in the wet.
it wouldn't matter what rod was in there. If is was so big that IT didn't bend then the piston crown would have blown away but that is unlikely because the crown would be 'supported' by the water on top. Maybe it would have sheared at the piston pin bosses. So the next option is for the top of the cylinder head to blow out? Or something like that. Who knows; it doesn't matter. Anyway, the gist of the message is pretty clear. Suck water into the cylinder and you have big expensive trouble. So keep that particular aspect in mind when you are looking into a different-than-stock intake.
Any intake that has FEWer restrictions will help. If you can 'smooth out' the connection from the stock air box (and I am not sure which one you may have) and reduce/remove elbows or flat spots/transitions then you will help it. Make sure you are drawing air from the very front of the car...... but keep a water trap SOMEwhere. The lower you go, especially without a water trap anymore, the more you are going to live dangerously.
just info for you.
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