Stiffer Valve springs

[LQ1]

Are there any made for the LQ1? Are there any made for other motors that would work on this one? IF I had an extra lying around i would take some measurments, but i dont.


Ben?

[Anonymous]

Go to like a junkyard or anything, and get an intake and an exhaust valve. Then send them out to a company, I'll be using SI valves, and they can make lightweight, higher compression springs. But without some sort of intake manifold improvements, you won't be able to rev past 7k anyway.

[RednBlack]

What'd He Say?? otu and suing? :P

[SappySE107]

I have yet to try out the springs I found that MIGHT work...but they are weaker than ours unless you go with 1 company, that makes them much stiffer than our stockers, especially at full lift. Honestly, I don't know what the use of going with stiffer springs is just yet since we dont have valve float. 96 engines have the worst springs, 91 have the best. The TRW replacements are in between, at 72 and 172 # (closed and open).

For now I know you can get shims to raise the TRW to 91 spec, which is 80 and 180. The springs I found that might work are something like 97 and 230. Not exactly that but its in that range.

How much are those SI valves that are lighter? They stock replacement valves are a few grams heavier, and I don't think ill be buying anything from them every again anyway. Im happy with my lighter lifters though, and 91 springs. Its a shame the stock plenum sucks so much ass though, top end is a joke with that POS.

[Anonymous]

Wow I dunno wtf I was trying to say....lol, but i fixed it....

The SI valves weren't cheap, but I will probly be using them. They were like 40% lighter as well.

Yah stiffer springs won't do us anything, sure they'll seal a bit better, but that is just more force working against the motor. And since we alreadye have no float to 7200, there is no reason for them yet. But a new intake makes going to 7500-8000 reachable.

Basically if you send any company a sample of our valves, I'm sure they can redo them in pretty much any compression range we need, but for a price....

[LQ1]

Well, I have found a better turbo to use for my setup, and since I found a a place to store my car for the winter, I am going to do this right. Running 7psi isnt alot, but from what ive read that extra pressure could cause valve float sooner even though we wouldnt reach it unil 7000+rpms. Am I right in thinking this? I figure getting some stiffer springs will help prevent this.

[SappySE107]

You definetly want stiffer springs with boost, and a lighter valvetrain helps quite a bit as well. Just shimming them probably isn't going to do what you need, so the best bet right now is to see if these other springs work. Ill try to get a used stocker to test with first, even though their specs will probably coil bind..so its going to be merely a test fit, and not run. If it does work though, the springs that are stiffer cost a lot...they are expensive as 16, let alone another 8.

[LQ1]

Ya, I would rather not shim them, You dont by chance have the measurments of the stock springs do you? I wouldnt mind helping out trying to find a set of stiffer springs. Those lighter lifters your talking about, how much are they? I thought i remember like $300 or something like that. Also, would gutting the plenum help out any with a turbo? or would that just have some suckass lowend and too much topend with the auto tranny.

[SappySE107]

Ive pretty much looked everywhere off google that makes valve springs. All the springs I found that would fit were too weak, or not enough clearance before coil bind to be worth using. Ill post the spring dimensions when i go out to the garage.

[Guest]

I thought some people used quad 4 springs before for higher rpm operation to help fend off valve float?

[SappySE107]

I don't even remember why I gave up on those springs. I know I was reading up on them but its been a while since I decided I didnt want to use them.

[SappySE107]

I cant find the measurements so ill just take them again. The installed height will be 1.40", and with the valve open max lift on stock cams, its 1.030", which means you want at least 1" to coil bind. The more clearance for coil bind, the better. The base of the spring that goes around the guide is 0.841" ID, 1.176" OD. The top of the spring where the cap goes is 0.634" ID, 0.966" OD.

[Will'sFiero]

Im happy with my lighter lifters though, and 91 springs. Its a shame the stock plenum sucks so much ass though, top end is a joke with that POS.

What lifters did you use? How much do those and the stockers weigh?

I'm into Northstars right now, but I just bought a TDC long block for parts... What's the lifter bore in these engines?

[SappySE107]

Lifter bore is 35mm so you cant use them in a northstar. 96 DOHC is 33mm....and ive heard northstars use the same, but I also saw on fiero.nl that someone measured the bore for the lifter at 30mm. Stockers are 77.1 grams, and the new ones are 63 grams.

[Will'sFiero]

So you're using the later 63 gram lifters with the earlier stiffer springs?
Northstar lifters are 68 grams... I've heard of a 33mm Kawasaki solid lifter that can be made to work in a Northstar. That might be an option for TDC's as well.