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umm from what i have heard RednBlackCutlass is 90% right. it also richens the fuel mixture too(in an effort to bring the car to the preprogrammed operating temp). i think. as far as power gains go i don't think there are any real gains. it is operating on the premise that is u reduce temp the intake charge will be cooler/denser hence creating more 02 equalling more power. i look at it as a compensation method like if u start modding your car (like building your own intake manifold) and playing with the timing or something that might make it create more heat than normal. also it would be good for city driving i believe.
but without hardcore data no1 can be sure if the computer adjustments for fuel/spark even help at all. it might loose hp but i am pretty sure your gas mileage will suffer(not alot but i don't have a 180 stat either). but IMO cooler is better if u got a high mileage car(and most of us do) and want to squeeze a little more life out of your gaskets. but i plan to get one once i get my car back on the road and find a damn chip for it under $300.
Only problem is our cars run rich from the factory to prevent a lean condition and burning valves and holes in pistons.
-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed 92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Ive always heard the opposite...hotter engine = less emissions...
Agreed! State of Ohio advises to drive your car for a good distance before coming to E Check. This is a good sign that, The hotter the engine, the less emissions. As far as performance, I would agree that a hotter engine performs better. Less emissions is more efficient burning of fuel. Most cars now are equipped with "Hot" stats as compared to days of old,(non-sealed systems), when a hot stat was 195. Stock was 180. I believe that most sealed cooling systems run normal at about 220-240. So... even a 195 stat is a mute point after the car warms up. Always open. Should not affect heater at all. So... Having said this, the 165 stat for performance is BS. And removing the A.I.R pump, may increase performance,...for awhile, untill your engine starts that carbon thing from exhaust gasses just running around with no place to go.
If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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untill your engine starts that carbon thing from exhaust gasses just running around with no place to go.
? The A.I.R. system pumps air into the exhaust manifolds to warm up the cat faster (read lower emissions). Well I got sick of the noise from the pump (electric), and the space the tubes take up, and did this (I was going to use the manifolds from the 91 (former auto with no AIR, but the EGR tube bolt broke, and I needed some welding practice. Paint is supposed to be aluminum colored w/ ceramic in it, came out of the can silver, and way shinier then the cap, and the pic was taken before the car was started to bake the paint on, and the welds on the rear manifolds ended up looking alot better then the fronts):
-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed 92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Not on our cars, The EGR, has a pipe going down directly into the rear exhaust manifold for that. I have had both auto 3.4 (now 5 speed) and factory 5 speed cars, so I am not blowing smoke up your ass in any way, shape, or form. Our AIR injection is there to make the exhaust leaner to warm up the cat faster. It is on a timer, and shuts off after a short period of time. It is also only on the 5 speed cars, untill 96, I think, then the auto's got it too (5 speeds stopped at 93). Look at the engine pic of the convertible cutty on ebay, then look at the pic I posted again. See the bumps in each port that have been welded shut on my car? Those are the AIR injection ports. If you want, I can go out in the garage and take a pic of the electric AIR pump that sits inside the front bumper, on the passenger side in front of the tire. The pump never made a connection to the EGR at all. Here is anothe pic of a 5 speed exhaust manifold (notice the AIR injection tubes running in the top of it). EDIT:Ok, now I am putting all of this up for my own good since the post I was replying to was deleted
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-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed 92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
The EGR system on my car was TOTALLY seperate from the A.I.R system. They never even contacted each other. From the pump, there is a rubber line that runs up beside the radiator on the passenger side, then it turns and connectos to the metal gold line, which depositis into each port of the manifold. There is also a metal line that runs on the passenger side below the coolant line running back, then it turns, and has a rubber line that weaves its way up to the rear manifold, depositing into the rear bank. The EGR has a small metal line that runs straight douwn and screws right where the fornt meets the back. Tehy never contact each other, pocket rocket is correct.
Go ahead and take it off.... Take it all off! http://www.autoshop-online.com/auto101/exhtext.html Then when your engine carbons up after about 10 to 20 thou. Don't call me. If you remove all this, you have to do intake work, and head work and reprogram the PCM. I was wrong on 1 point. The rest is fact.
If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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You may be right. Times have changed since I worked on them for a living. However, in my state, we have to do the E Check thing and when all parts are operating perfect, this is the result.... I had to E Check mine today....(these readings are in parts per million), HC Limit is 114.0, Mine is 29.9, NO Limit is 796.0, Mine is 153.4, (this is a percentage reading), CO Limit is .63, Mine is.02, so since I haven't heard any real gains by removing this equipment, I better keep what I have. I have to edit this, The whole state of Ohio does not E Check, only 14 counties around Dayton towards Cincy. How stupid is this?
If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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Ok since you don't really have reason, I'll cut to it. Unbolt the EGR, unplug it. Then unbolt the metal tube and find a way to clock off the hole for the tube on the exhaust manifold. You will get a periodical SES light if you do not have it removed on your chip.
But if it is working correctly, there isn't really a reason.
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