ARP Main studs and windage tray

[sd_iconoclast]

Guys,
I have just bought a set of ARP main studs for my DOHC. Unfortunately, the new studs leave me no way to mount the stock windage tray. I ordered the next size up studs, but found they were too long. I am considering attaching the windage tray to the oil pan, but I am concerned that I might be losing some strength. It appears to me that the stock windage tray is thick enough to act (at least somewhat) as a girdle for the main caps. Am I wrong? Should I worry about it?

[SappySE107]

I would want that windage tray in the stock location. It does act as a support for the mains but its not the best. Still, I would think its useful where its at. Other people have ran up to 7000 without one though so its not like its necessary.

[sd_iconoclast]

I belive that I can mount the windage tray in (pretty much) the stock location, but just not attach it to the main studs/bolts. I guess my question comes down to :
Am I better off with ARP main studs, not tied together by the windage tray, or Stock bolts that are tied together by the windage tray?

[Lyle's GTP]

Stock bolts. ARP are only bolts, how often do you here, "spun a main bearing cause the bolts broke". With all the motors I seen at Optimax, not one ever had a broken a main bolt. I've seen blocks split in two right down the center of the mains, right up to the lifter valley. The only think holding the block together was the timing cover, and main caps. The cap will bust in half long before the bolts fail.

Lyle

[brian89gp]

The thing is that the higher quality bolts will stretch less when under severe load, which means less chance of spun bearings. You don't need a bolt to break to spin the bearing, just enough flex and stretch.

[Lyle's GTP]

Does any body know the grade of material each bolt is made of?

Lyle