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crank shaft turning

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  • crank shaft turning

    hey guys earlier i posted a problem with my z34 rod bearing.well i have to tear the engine down now and replace the bearings but my question is the bearing is tapping but not hellaciously.does this mean i can save myself money and have the crank shaft turned or do i have to get a whole new crank shaft?

  • #2
    You should be able to get a reman crank through a machine shop for about the same cost as having one turned. It'll come with the proper sized bearings just make sure to plastigage all of them.
    Past Builds;
    1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
    1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
    Current Project;
    1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

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    • #3
      Or take one from a 3.1/3100/3400 ....
      sigpic New 2010 project (click image)
      1994 3100 BERETTA. 200,000+ miles
      16.0 1/4 mile when stock. Now ???
      Original L82 Longblock
      with LA1, LX9, LX5 parts
      Manifold-back 2.5" SS Mandrel Exhaust. Hardware is SS too.

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      • #4
        if i was to take the crankshaft from a say a 3400 would it effect performance?or are both cranks the same?also about how much would a reman crank be?

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        • #5
          same exact crank as you have, i bought a reman for around $250 or so a few years ago.
          Past Builds;
          1991 Z24, 3500/5 Spd. 275WHP/259WTQ 13.07@108 MPH
          1989 Camaro RS, ITB-3500/700R4. 263WHP/263WTQ 13.52@99.2 MPH
          Current Project;
          1972 Nova 12.73@105.7 MPH

          Comment


          • #6
            I had my crank turned .010/.010 it cost me $130
            1993 EXT. CAB, 3.4L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. Sonoma
            1990 4Door, 3.2L V6 TBI, 5spd manual. 4X4. Trooper
            Because... I am, CANADIAN

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            • #7
              Buying a crankshaft-in-a-box is likely to get you a crank that's been turned to the minimum-diameter end of the tolerance specs. This may not be what you want; as the bearing oil clearance will be at a maximum. If your block/main caps, or your rods are similarly on the big side of the specs, your oil clearance can get to be too large.

              Given any choice, I'd take the crank AND the block/caps/rods you have to a machine shop so the main- and rod-bearing saddles can be measured, and then have the shaft custom-ground so the oil clearance is where you want it.

              Be sure they leave a decent fillet radius on those journals, too.

              If the knock is from the rods, you'll undoubtedly need to have at least some of the rods resized as well.

              As soon as you open the engine, you run into a world full of "might as well..." and "gee, as long as I'm in there..."
              ^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert

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