what car?

[savannaz34]

which car should i get a coolant overflow tank from,so i could mount my coils up top on my z34.or does it really matter?probably have to mod the shit out of any tank?and also,is there any downfalls to moving the coil pack up top?

thanx

[HayesPerformance]

No downfalls,

Your wires will be shorter and your coils will run WAY COOLER, its all just gains, that is why GM did this later.

The original reasoning was just to simplify engine install.


As for a coolant over-flow. you can use many...

I've used ones from Ford Aerostars with the washer tank cut off or I have also used the OLD Honda Prelude coolant tanks cause you can mount them where ever and just add a longer hose to the fill spout...

[savannaz34]

i saw one of your pics,and i think it makes to motor look much nicer,plus i just replaced i ICM and decided i dont want it there anymore(what a pain in the rear)

thanx

[GTP091]

I did what Hayes did on my car but used an early 90's honda accord. There weren't any preludes at the junkyard but I'm sure they're similar. The accord tank has all the hoses for remote mounting for the pass fender well and they are the perfect length to reach the rad neck. It even had a filler neck that slid right up behind the headlights.

I mounted the ICM coil pack to the pass factory brace using aluminum flat iron. If you can find a 2.8l GM engine; the aluminum plate the ICM mounts to on that engine has shortened arms so no cutting is needed on on your 3.4 plate which has awkward length mounts.

[savannaz34]

thanx guys

thanx for the info on the tanks and bracket,but what about the wiring to the icm?does it have to be cut and made longer,or are the wires long enough?just need to take them out of the wire loom?

thanx again

[robertisaar]

based on what other people have done, i'll say that you'll need to lengthen the wiring. not that tough either, a little solder and maybe 3" of heatshrink would do a damn good job.

[GTP091]

thanx for the info on the tanks and bracket,but what about the wiring to the icm?does it have to be cut and made longer,or are the wires long enough?just need to take them out of the wire loom?

thanx again

There's 3 harnesses for the ICM. the 2 wire power harness - 12V from the electrical centre plus ground. The 2 wire harness for the crank sensor, and the 5 wire trigger harness from the ECM. If you un tape the two harnesses from the ecm and the electrical centre you can trace it back to the starting point and once cut; make them independant of all the other wiring going down to the rad cross brace. I'd suggest re-mounting the ICM first and then cutting the harnesses and resoldering them with heatshrink to the right length. You could just re-loom them and bundle them up but it would look messy. The crank signal harness is usually well hidden through the subframe so if you undo it; you may find it's been protected in some split fuel hose as it runs from the front to the back of the engine bay. It looks much cleaner to redo the wiring just make damn sure you don't mix anything up.

[SofaKingWeToddDid]

i saw one of your pics,and i think it makes to motor look much nicer,plus i just replaced i ICM and decided i dont want it there anymore(what a pain in the rear)

thanx

ive seen it in person, pictures do you no justice. his motor is a shining beacon of beauty. i would seriously trade him my 19th born son for his motor. lol those valve covers and intake are freaking sexy!!!!


and yes, i agree. coils on top is better. WAY better.