Originally posted by jmgtp
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Why NOT to do the cam timing and much more!
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I personally believe that there is little difference between the actual results of the gen I vs gen II. Only in the intakes, and even then....
I mean these difference coudl eb for anything, who knows why GM did it. The gen IIs only got 5hp, so what's the point? I am going to 96 intkaes, but that is only becuz the TB is removalbe.
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Originally posted by AaronI personally believe that there is little difference between the actual results of the gen I vs gen II. Only in the intakes, and even then....
I mean these difference coudl eb for anything, who knows why GM did it. The gen IIs only got 5hp, so what's the point? I am going to 96 intkaes, but that is only becuz the TB is removalbe.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by dykz34Yes, the 96/7 motors have 5 more PEAK hp... you fail to realize that the powerband is 1000 rpms higher. Hell, just because the PEAK hp is higher, doesn't mean there aren't gains throughout the entire powerband.1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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ok just had a failure trying to do the 13* retard. Guess im the retarded one...lol.
How on earth is it done? I know, I have seen the link, but I still don't understand how I'm suppose to do the rear 2 cams when the strut tower is in the way of my home made cam puller. Any input on how i can do it?\"Pree\" - 93 Grand Prix SE - 3.4L Twin Dual Cam
- FFP UD Pulley - FFP Chip - 8mm Taylor Wires
- 160* T/stat - Dual 40 Series Flowmasters
- Hi-Flo Cat
15.2@95mph - GTECH P/B
http://home.rgv.rr.com/tjperformance/Cap0005.mpg
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Yeah, you can do that dave. If you cant get the rear cam gear off, then you just set the crank to the 13 degree mark and set the rear cam flat. Then you put the belt on and tighten it up at the tensioner pulley. This will keep the rear cam in time with the crank. Then, do the front intake cam, front exhaust, and then back to the rear intake.
This is the 3rd time ive written that out, im sure its in other threads.Ben
60DegreeV6.com
WOT-Tech.com
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Originally posted by dykz34Originally posted by SappySE107Yeah, you can do that dave.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by dykz34I'm not doing the 13* retard... I'm timing it stock. I'd rather time it to stock for my first time doing a belt than trying to figure out where the hell EXACTLY 13* is...-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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i was reading the 60degreev6 website last night about the retarding of the exhaust cams. first has there ever been a dyno or a test to prove its power gains. second how do you know that the valves get ruined. i am just wondering because before you go and play around with cam timing you should really know what you are doing. with all that is said i want to get what i read straight.
1 you line up the tdc mark on the damper with the stock mark
2 you put the cam flat tools on. there are warings about this any body know what they are
3 you then loosen the sprockets and let them spin freely.
4 you put the belt on and all of the pulleys
5 some how you get the intake cam to not turn and put the damper at 13*
do you do both exhaust banks or just the rear exhaust bank
how do you make a tool to hold just one came at a time
on a 94 can you do this reatarding with the belt on.
what is the pros and cons of doing this
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