What is better? Cold air intake or a cone filter? I run cold air from my foglight openings. I have seen a lot of peeps running the cone filter. Seems to me that a cone filter takes air from a REALLY hot engine compartment. I believe that low air from the ground is cooler. (the high density and O2 molecules) I have a cold air intake that I built myself. (pics are available thru Email)What is better? I run 2-2" channels into an original box. High flow filter. Is there a right or wrong? I've never run a cone filter yet.
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Cold air vs. Cone filters.
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You have to keep in mind, when the car is moving theres fresh air circulating under the hood. If you need gobs of power at stop light idle then cone filters on a short tube arent for you. I think *most* people, at least from the twin cam crowd here, would report seat-of-the-pants gains with the filter. The cone filter was the very first mod I did to my dohc years and years ago, and it felt like it definetly opened her up a bit. A real cold air intake, with high flow filter would be ideal, like the kind I have seen running into the fender but they require battery relocation and the horns gotta move1991 Grand Prix GTP LX9swap/Getrag 284 --- SOLD =(
1994 Corvette LT1/ZF6
2006 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.7/42RLE
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Yep! That answered that question dykz. I agree on the cold air, mine sure got a kick in the a.. from it. Won't know how much untill I visit the track again Thursday night. I didn't relocate anything. Used PVC pipe and connected everything with screws instead of glue. Tied it tight to the bottom of the radiator core support and left some play in the box fittings to allow for any movement.Also drilled "weep" holes at the bottom just in case any water happened to collect. Blocked the original intake tube. Total cost was around $30. Plus the welding of the aluminum collectors. They mount just like the foglights did. With welding and all, I spent about 3 hours on it. It was a rainy Sunday morning thing. This is my second one. First didn't last due to the crappy Al. flex tubing I used. Another question: Does the tube length matter?If you are driving a Chevy, everything else, is just a blur. 3.4 Carbon Footprint.
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I am personally running a stock intake box, but it is ported on the back and I have a K&N cone inside the box. Then I left the stock inlet open but ran two additional intake hoses from the bottom of the box through the front air dam and put two Square ShopVac pieces on the end. When I first did the install it netted a nice seat of the pants feel. It's been about 3 years since I installed it and one of my tubes fell off the bottom of the box so now I just have an open hole right by the exhaust cross over, lol. From first hand experience, cold air is better. Occasionally I will take the top of the box off and run just the cone and I notice a definite decline in performance, especially after the car has been running a while and at lower rpm. Personally, I've never seen a true cold air intake tube on these cars with 3 1/2 tubing other than Steve Cromer's old GTP from years back. I will probably try and make my situation better soon and I"ll post some pics when I'm done.
BTW, just remembering, my fastest 1/4 with air lid on, 15.07. Fastest with just cone was 15.31.
Ross
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My cone def gives power ONLY when its cool outm, the car has just warmed up, and when Ive had the hood open for a little while...otherwise it feels about the same, maybe a little slower than stock
The stock looks to me like it would create some insane turblance though...
Also, even when you are driving around with decent airflow, an open cone is still just breathing in the heat that was just extracted from the radiator, making it kinda ineficcient (cycling extracted heat back into the engine)
I think a cold air cone would be best =P Batt in the trunk, rout the cone towards the fenderwell, then build a box sealing off the engine air
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