if you put a high amp alternator on a 91 DOHC? Would the voltage gauge say and would the lights get brighter or more? Anyone who has done this tell me what you experienced?
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you're talking about two different things. a high amperage doesn't necessarily mean you're voltage guage will read differently. they have regulators inside of them that stop them from making over 15 volts i think. but if you have that much strain on your electrical system that it makes your lights brighter with a bigger alt, then obviously you need a bigger alt or a better battery.
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define "car's performance".
here's a simple formula for you if you think that a monster alt is going to slow down your car:
watts= volts X amps.
lets say the stock alt pushes out 100amps at 14.4volts, thats 1440 watts.
now 750watts are equal to 1 horsepower. obviously an alt isn't 100% efficient, but look at those numbers.
also keep in mind, an alt can't keep that sustained rate for long without turning into a smolering pile of electrical garbage. and absolutely get a better battery. and i don't remember if its the big three, the big five or big seven, but ask/search over on w-body and you'll learn about those, very necessary when installing a bigger alt.
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Originally posted by Sonyman View PostWell the thing is, i'm preparing to install an upgraded car stereo system with two power thirsty amps and a cap so i am going to get an alt with at least 140 or more. Just wondering what changes would i experience regarding the car's performance.
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I think the main problem is the lq1 matched to the 4t60e. It is just a cluster mess slowly unleashing problems...
A bigger alt, better battery, upgraded charging/grounding wiring, solder connections NOT crimped and proper ventilation for the alt. would be highly advised.Lifting my front wheels, one jack at a time.
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The dimming comes from ground loops from common grounding points, throw a high draw device that is farther down the loop what happes resistance, the device actually sources voltage from the ground and current from the power, because current sinks to ground and voltage is pulled up by power, voltage drop.
You inject the ground with 30 amps then this makes the ground in a sense dirty everywhere as it is dissipating the voltage thru to positive momentarily increasing voltage drop, hense why if you have more than normal voltage drop over a device it dims or loses grounding and no amount of capacitance will improve a ground loop problem.
I don't see this as a problem as dimming on a large high draw stereo is very common and caps will only stiffen the DC rms effectivly charging ground however these alone will not remove ripple or noise and will not increase current loading and typically will not function as any real benefit, as most amplifiers already have enough capacitance, where grounding is more important.
If you want to reduce current transient the best thing to do is run a ground buss along the vehicle frame grounding it every two feet.I am back
Mechanical/Service Technican
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Originally posted by asylummotorsports View Post^^I have NO IDEA what he said, but it sure sounds impressive, LOL^^^
what about instead of grouping a whole bunch of grounds in one spot, tapping new grounds for each individual wire? would it help?
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dang jug! and I thought I had a good grasp of electronics! Jug is hereby nominated as the electrical engineer of the site, thank you for volunteering! :PsigpicHow to make High performance Emissions:
A "true" High flow converter, straight pipe.
Low/No flow EGR valve, block off plate.
Carbon canister and purge valve mod, place in large 30 Gallon can, cover, and place curbside, the city will do the rest.
PCV valve and vent tube, reroute to exhaust to dump where it belongs, on the ground. Or add breathers and let it all free.
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