dohc head on a 3x00 block

[no_doz]

i know this has been beaten to absolute death, but i figure if we keep it up-eventually there WILL be a living, breathing 3x00 dohc frankenstein monster. i was looking at the article where "3100 mpfi" actually bolted the heads up to the block

http://60degreev6.com/content/34_DOHC_heads_3x00_block

http://60degreev6.com/content/34_DOHC_heads_3x00_block_0

the big issues that he pointed out were:

1 coolant passages were partially exposed

2 an oil passage or 2 was exposed

3 the stock oiling system doesnt flow enough (stock oiling system doesnt require flow for dohc heads)

4 only 2 of the mounting bolts lined up

Some things that i noticed/thought about:

5 what would you do with the cam in the block?

6 how would you hook the crank to the cams?

7 would the stock dohc intake work & will the ecm work with it?

8 what compression ratio are we looking at with stock 3100/3400/3.1/2.8 pistons

if anyone else has any other issues that theyd like to add then i can add them to the list & we can address them by number just as people think of things (you know, when everyones bored at work, or off work & drinking a a few dozen beers, etc... :P). even if it takes 6 months or a year-if we identify and address these issues 1 by 1 then we may some day have our frankenstein monster. a collective 60degreev6 group effort

[no_doz]

keep in mind these are all just ideas

1: the overhang/gap/whatever you want to call it could be welded & the mouths of the passages widened in the block & head to match to eachother.

2: oil passages overhung completely-maybe put a nipple on them and pipe them to somewhere else to recieve oil flow as well as return it

3: higher capacity fuel pump & maybe widening the oil passages in the block? thoughts, opinions, ideas?

5/6: the stock cam could be completely removed & an "idler gear" or something like that installed-or leave the cam in & just remove the pushrods-then make a gear assembly that bolts in place of stock, but then has a crank pulley just for the dohc like the japper engines have-then you just need to make a cover & get 2 other appropriate sized cam pulleys & voila! you have spinning cams & opening valves.

[patgizz]

while welding on an iron block does not make this very feasible,

5/6 - use the dummy oil pump drive "cam" from the DOHC and slap on the timing cover and cam drive stuff from it. that's the easy part.

[no_doz]

why is welding on the block not feasible? excessive temps & warping could be avoided if you welded a small amount at a time-or maybe even using a dremel or mill machine-remove a 1 inch sqaure section-fab up a piece-& weld that piece in place slowly & bit by bit so that nothing got warped-one or the other should work if done carefully.

[no_doz]

oh and whats this oil pump dummy drive cam?

[Superdave]

why is welding on the block not feasible? excessive temps & warping could be avoided if you welded a small amount at a time-or maybe even using a dremel or mill machine-remove a 1 inch sqaure section-fab up a piece-& weld that piece in place slowly & bit by bit so that nothing got warped-one or the other should work if done carefully.

Have you ever tried to weld cast iron?

[ForcedFirebird]

Cast iron needs to be heated to weld. I know some really good welders that can do it at a few hundred degrees, most need ti to be about 700.

[SappySE107]

i know this has been beaten to absolute death, but i figure if we keep it up-eventually there WILL be a living, breathing 3x00 dohc frankenstein monster.

Fail

/thread