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  • #46
    Lyle you have a PM

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    • #47
      My notification is on. I got it before you posted.

      Lyle

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      • #48
        Originally posted by Dave
        the autos would need to have more vacuum then the manuals would.

        --Dave
        If anything less Vacuum would make the shifts a bit more firm on an Auto, but regardless if Vacuum gets too low your going to have Power Brake issues on either car.
        67 Olds Cutlass 2bbl 330 w/ 2 speed Jetaway

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        • #49
          Originally posted by quantum110
          Originally posted by Dave
          the autos would need to have more vacuum then the manuals would.

          --Dave
          If anything less Vacuum would make the shifts a bit more firm on an Auto, but regardless if Vacuum gets too low your going to have Power Brake issues on either car.
          And the ECM will get cranky when it comes to tuning. I have seen Ben deal with such pushrods when tuning. They had pretty wild cams from what I have been told though.
          -60v6's 2nd Jon M.
          91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
          92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
          94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
          Originally posted by Jay Leno
          Tires are cheap clutches...

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          • #50
            ok, so what wouuld be good cam specs? I am seriously thinking of ordering/buying them already cuz i have an itchy wallet (do i have the money, NO, but i got plenty 'o credit )....

            seriously dont wanna order something for 500 and get shitty results....
            \"Pree\" - 93 Grand Prix SE - 3.4L Twin Dual Cam
            - FFP UD Pulley - FFP Chip - 8mm Taylor Wires
            - 160* T/stat - Dual 40 Series Flowmasters
            - Hi-Flo Cat
            15.2@95mph - GTECH P/B
            http://home.rgv.rr.com/tjperformance/Cap0005.mpg

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            • #51
              They probably aren't recommended for an auto since the lowend loss is going to be quite a bit.

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              • #52


                Then there should just be this big NOTE on the homepage that says "NOTE: NOT recommended for autos! Not worth your time! Despire the HP gains, it's NOT worth losing the torque!"

                Please. I keep reading everything won't work with an auto, or isn't worth it. I guess there is only one way to find this out....
                1999 SVT Lightning
                1996 Monte Z34 R.I.P.
                Next BEATER: a C5
                http://www.fquick.com/ez112

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                • #53
                  What ever happened to a high stall torque converter?

                  Lyle

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                  • #54
                    I might have another cam grinder option. I was at Schneider cams the other day and I asked if they would be willing to grind a set of 3.4l DOHC cams. I was told that they "never turn anyone away". They said that they are involved in a bunch of weird projects. Their website is www.schneidercams.com

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                    • #55
                      Its not up to me to decide what is worthwhile for you. I personally wouldnt bother with cams in an auto either. If you want to make your trans die faster, go for that top end power like the 5 speed guys. If I had an auto DOHC, I would be playing with the timing to increase low end and try to get peak power around 5500 and have it shift dead on at 6K. Only if I had a built up auto would I go for 7K. This is why I am not posting up every available cam spec...its pointless. Either you know what you are doing, or you ask a specific question about cam specs for your application. The guys doing the regrinds can also recommend something.
                      Ben
                      60DegreeV6.com
                      WOT-Tech.com

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                      • #56
                        Don't the 3.4s already make peak power at 5500? If so a new set of cams, even for that setup, wouldn't really be necesarry as without your chip the 3.4 really was done by 6000.

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                        • #57
                          Im going for topend in my auto (like 7k)

                          But then again, Im also just waiting for it to die so I can rebuild with steeper gears or go manny

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                          • #58
                            If I had an auto DOHC, I would be playing with the timing to increase low end and try to get peak power around 5500 and have it shift dead on at 6K.
                            I was told I would get more benifit from a 282 getrag swap than a whole plethera of mods. If i were to re-do my 4T60-E with a shift kit and a stall converter, what sort of specs should I be asking for?

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                            • #59
                              A new trans if you want to shift at 7000. The 4T60-E is designed for a max input RPM of 6800. You can have it rebuilt to handle the power and higher RPM but a shiftkit and stall converter isnt the answer.
                              Ben
                              60DegreeV6.com
                              WOT-Tech.com

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                              • #60
                                A 282 would work, but if you push too much power, you might be in some trouble. But the 284 handles it fine, so I'd assume the 282 would be great for anything short of 300hp.

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