You would have me for a set of headers if ya make them for the 1991 to 1993 Motors.
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Originally posted by gpse3400 View PostPolyurethane main mounts I guess..... would be good for a track car or something, but for a everyday car you'll induce so much vibration, might even stress and break some bosses due to there not being any give...I'm up for controlling all the wheel hop these cars have but polyurethane is alittle too rough...at least for me. Some hard rubber mounts would be good for everyday use. I'm running a solid rubber front lower mount.
Personally, I don't have issues with the poly suspension bushings I've installed on several of my vehicles, even though other people with similar vehicles bitch about "harshness with their poly bushings.^ some people may call this guy an asshole at times, but he isn't wrong very often -- Robert
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i do not have the CAD files on me, they belong to the CNC guy that made a majority of my parts.
If he allows me to have them, i will have the cad files for the following:
Aluminum front timing cover
Cam Timing Tools
Billet 10% UD WP pulley
Billet Serpentine Tensioner
Billet A/C Delete pulley
I have other parts that i have brokered with vendors to have made. Unfortunately you cannot have them for R&D b/c i am kinda using them.
Custom intake arm that allows a n* Tb to be bolted on-MMS
Teflon Crank scraper-Ben/sappyse107/WOT-TECH
1 inch billet spacer for 96-97 dohc plenum-Dave96z34Last edited by dohcfiend; 03-18-2008, 09:45 PM.The Official Rotating Mass Nazi
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Originally posted by Schurkey View PostPoly is available in the same firmnesses as "rubber". Just specify a soft poly when the part is engineered; and you get all the advantages of poly with the "softness" of typical rubber mounts.
Personally, I don't have issues with the poly suspension bushings I've installed on several of my vehicles, even though other people with similar vehicles bitch about "harshness with their poly bushings.
Quick fact: Polyurethane is actually in the rubber family :P-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by dohcfiend View Posti never implied the pump was a problem, other than the fact it is so good it sucks the pan dry during high rpm acceleration.
My car spent a lot of time at high RPM at the race track and never had a problem. If the oil pan is underfilled I could see the pump getting starved. Also as you say, the pan isn't baffled very well.. in fact it's baffled quite poorly.
Some weld in baffles and trap doors (tested of course!) would be great. I know Chris West heavily modified his oil pan in his 3.4 DOHC Fiero for track use. I'll see if he has any pics of the inside.. he doesn't have the motor anymore..
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For the cars that have lifter tap (like mine...) there was a kit that GM sold to fix it. It involved plugging a hole in one place and drilling a hole in another on the cams I believe. A long while back I had the PN for the kit, but I have yet to dig it up again. IIRC, engines made after something like 94 or 95 had this done from the factory and did not require the kit. Lucas and Mobil 1 don't do a bad job though. Normally I won't put anything but Mobil 1 in the 92, but that ticking gets so aggravating.-60v6's 2nd Jon M.
91 Black Lumina Z34-5 speed
92 Black Lumina Z34 5 speed (getting there, slowly... follow the progress here)
94 Red Ford Ranger 2WD-5 speed
Originally posted by Jay LenoTires are cheap clutches...
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Originally posted by dohcfiend View Posti am running the solid rubber lower front mount as well.
stiffer springs will get rid of your wheel hop.
poly is not that bad for engine mounts, it has been used in many other applications with success.
i never implied the pump was a problem, other than the fact it is so good it sucks the pan dry during high rpm acceleration.
the pan isn't baffled very well so hard cornering and high rpm is a problem.
other then that, it doesn't get the oil back to the pan fast enough is another contributing factor to an oiling system that is less than ideal.
Hard to imagine stiffer springs when the car rides so hard already, at least mine feels that way... My car has over 185K, yet I do not have any odd vibration relative to the suspension, everything seems fine and it tracks straight....I was entertaining the idea of changing out the control arm bushings but I dont think I will get anything out of it. When I had my 3400 I used the rear twin cam brace to run the rear mount with the main bottom mount pushrod mount.. The engine and transimssion were litterally pushing forward on the torque struts. Very ridgid, wheel hop was all pretty much gone....And I had the same suspension on that car too...It had alittle bit of a resonace at first but then it quieted down on the inside...
I have to disagree with you on the oil pump pumping the pan dry...If it did that we wouldn't have these cars any more, let alone off the lot for any extended period of time. As far as the pan is concerned...It does just fine for putzing around town...I guess somethings could be changed with it if you plan on going very hard in turns....Maybe making a swinging pump pick up.....Last edited by gpse3400; 03-21-2008, 11:10 AM.Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"
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poly motor mounts can't be nearly as bad as some of these guys are making it sound. granted I haven't driven a front wheel driver with poly mounts, but have solid ones in my hell camino after I kept tearing energy suspension poly mounts. I used to drive the camino everyday up until I got my Z34 and I never though the vibrations where bad, just a little more noticable than the stock rubbber ones (which didn't last 1 gear at WOT). I can't see how being front wheel drive would make that much of a difference on a vibrational issue.68 El camino 454 speed muncie 3.90 posi 12 bolt,
80 Monza Spyder nasty buick 231/3.8l v6 200-4R 3.73 posi.
60 Impala 2 door hardtop L79-327 T56 4.11 posi.
83 wagoneer torque pig AMC 360 hydradrive (gm turbo 400 with stock sb chrysler bellhousing boltpattern) dana 20 transfer case dana 60 front GM 14 bolt rear. 401 in the wokrs
91 Z34 now has a hm284. and belly pan in the works
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I like the idea of a new plenum... i fucking hate the one that comes stock on these cars and i dont have a clue as to how to chop them or whatever. but if your talking about major performance i'd like to see a trubo kit that is like bolt on. like a good turbo that works well with these car's and a proper bolt on kit with intercooler and piping and the works. i know it would be costly but i think alot of people would go for it. i know i would. and hopfully something that isn't butch. like not choping holes in the car to fit the piping. i want to keep my car as original as i can so i cant take all the performance stuff off when the car becomes valuable. sometime in the next 50 years lolLast edited by 91DOHC284; 03-23-2008, 02:21 AM.1992 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme International
3.4L DOHC Getrag HM-284
1 of 85 Produced whith the manual tranny
New addition: 1981 Dodge Power Ram W150 4x4
6" lift, Dana 60/70, 35" County Terrain, 440c.u.i. 4bbl swap
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Originally posted by Juglenaut View Postconfused??? use a brace to a rear mount on a main to bottom mount pushrod...mount???
Ok on the TDC the rear mount and brace/bracket for the automatic. I used that on my 3400 as all the bosses on the block are the same. I also used the regular main lower mount for the 3400. So I had one big mount below one little mount in the back, 2 pitch fork style torque struts, and one transmission mount. All were solid rubber.Lorenzo
'11 DODGE Challenger R/ T Classic 57M6 Green with Envy "Giant Green Squid"
'92 PONTIAC Grand Prix SE 34TDCM5 "Red Lobster"
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