3.4c mods?? Want lots of N/A power

[gpchris]

Thats the place i looked. I have the engine down to the block.. Putting a opsu there will tell you oilpressure right before the heads/cams.

[OldSkoolGP]

RIght, but that's where you want to know it, becuase all the oiling issues this engine has are in the top end. And if you're running the stock sensor off the oil filter AND one up there, it would give you a good benchmark for resistance to oil flow.

[gpchris]

i completely agree lol.

[pocket-rocket]

And you could watch the gauge for the valley go lower and lower as your filter gets clogged more and more from driving, so you could use it to gauge the life of your oil filter, lol. Not really, but it sounded good, and I am sure you would see it go lower as the weeks went on.

[pocket-rocket]

You know, I was thinking of an electric sending unit. Why not use a mechanical gauge with a live line to the gauge from that spot? The adapter would fit in there for sure before you could work something out to fit an electric sender, unless you fabed up a stainless steel braid line or something to hook there.

[gpchris]

Thats a great idea for anyone with a dohc. But back on topic.

Im having problems getting the 97 cam cogs off of the cams.. They have a small flat spot for the hold down location but I cant get anything to keep it tight enough without stripping the bolts. Any suggestions?

[pocket-rocket]

There is a tool that holds the cogs themselves still, as well as the hold down tool for the cam flats. IIRC when you button it all back up, you tighten the cam gear bolts to 85ft/lbs? So that would be why you are stripping the hold down holes out. Fair word of warning, when you use the cam gear puller, DO NOT use an impact on it. You can mess up the end of the cam, and you WILL mess up the taper on the tool as well.

[gpchris]

Thank you! I searched and I found what you were talking about. I made something like that and got the cogs off!


Edit* - I would also like to add that I broke 3 ratches trying to get the cogs off. One craftsman, one duralast and one greatneck. Of course i had a 2 foot pole on the end of them but still!

[OldSkoolGP]

JSUK, the cam gears that use collets only get their bolts torqued to 64 ft/lbs. Also they're not made of a ver good metal so you have to make sure that the socket you use is 6 point and flush on the bolt when you torque it.

Now, getting back to the oil sensor idea. I had another thought last night as well. For the guys that are hardcore racers like me, it would also be beneficial to have an oil temp gauge in the car. I first thoguht about tapping a hole in the pan and putting one there. Now I'm thinking there's two pipe plugs in the valley cover, so, room for two sensors.

[gpchris]

True but would you want the temp sensor before the major stuff or after?

[pocket-rocket]

Honestly I was thinking of a temp sensor too. I saw on a site where guys were adding an aftermarket pressure gauge on mustangs were putting a piece of SS braid N2O line about a foot long in the block where their old sensor was, then running a T off the end of it to put a stock sender and the sender for the new gauge. Anyone that has driven a Ford knows why.... I personally would probably put one there in the valley as well, instead of in the pan. Sure, it would probably be the hottest there, but that's probably exactly where you want it. If it were in the pan, the oil could cool, thus giving you a false sense of security thinking your oil was running nice and cool. I would rather know the peak temp myself.

The site I was talking about:

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/stories/oilgauge.html

And as for the torque on the cam cog bolts, I was thinking of the old lock ring style since I've done way more of those then I have with the new style. Call me a glutton for punishment...

[gpchris]

The oil dis cover is after the pan, oil filter and oil cooler. I think it would be coolest there. Sure the pan temp would vary a little depending on volume, rpm etc. but I think pan temp is more important.


Now that I have my cams out I started looking for casting flash in the carriers. Not much but its there. I'll get after pics when im done.

[pocket-rocket]

My thought was yes, it is after the oil cooler, but it also has to go through the block where 3/4 of the friction in the engine takes place. I will be doing this same thing you are doing to the engine I have in the garage. Every little bit of flashing removal helps.

[HayesPerformance]

You get alot too behind the right side of the timing chain where the oil from the excess oil comes off the intermediate shaft and pump drive and runs through the inside and down the front.

Also, at the bottom of the two of the three open oil drains coming from the heads to the crank case along the outer side of the block. They always have the holes covered 1/3 over.

[series8217]

I would highly recommend heli-coiling the cam carrier hold down tool threads on both cam carriers before you put it back in the motor. It's VERY easy to strip those when doing the timing.
I haven't looked to see whats below it, but if you can drill straight through and thread or helicoil it so its not a blind hole, that would be even better. Oil tends to pool at the bottom of the hole and causes the bolt to bottom out on the oil and strip the threads if you don't remove it.

You get alot too behind the right side of the timing chain where the oil from the excess oil comes off the intermediate shaft and pump drive and runs through the inside and down the front.

My block had a good square inch of casting in this area! It's pretty bad. Definitely a good spot to work on.

Fair word of warning, when you use the cam gear puller, DO NOT use an impact on it. You can mess up the end of the cam, and you WILL mess up the taper on the tool as well.

Using a cam gear puller on the 94-97 cogs will just break the cogs. The cogs should just fall off when you remove the cone locks. You can't really use a puller on the locks.